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Forscan isn't a tuner it is a diagnostics software, like a scan tool. It's an app that's free to download for Windows laptop, or I think $6 for Android or Apple devices. From there you need a dongle that plugs into the OBD2 port on the truck and connects to whatever device you're using. Not all dongles work but there's a list of compatible one in the info. With all of that up and running you have access to everything a ford tech at a dealership has. All the code reading, all the self test available, and all the sensor data. If the PCM sees it you'll be able to see it.
I can look into it before I start working on it but I just mean it has a tuner that could have caused the blown head gasket if that’s the case .
I see, I suppose it is possible, but if it's still running stock injectors somebody would have to be flogging it pretty hard. Towing heavy at low rpm, or maybe running it with no boost will get them hot.
I agree, it is hard to blow a head gasket with stock sticks. Granted it is possible but unlikely. Unless you had indications prior to the work (unexplainable loss of coolant, white smoke out of the tailpipe) I would rule out everything else before I started compression tests and pulling heads.
I ran tunes on stock sticks without any gages/monitoring for more years than I want to admit without any issues (6-position chip with PHP tunes).
When I pulled the injectors to replace them I found some cracked injector cups and replaced them all.
The one looks discolored but was the truck running fine? I had a couple that looked like the one you are concerned about (#7 and # 8 in the picture below) but my truck was running fine when I pulled them. I was more concerned about any buildup on them as that would indicate a more serious problem.
I agree, it is hard to blow a head gasket with stock sticks. Granted it is possible but unlikely. Unless you had indications prior to the work (unexplainable loss of coolant, white smoke out of the tailpipe) I would rule out everything else before I started compression tests and pulling heads.
I ran tunes on stock sticks without any gages/monitoring for more years than I want to admit without any issues (6-position chip with PHP tunes).
When I pulled the injectors to replace them I found some cracked injector cups and replaced them all.
The one looks discolored but was the truck running fine? I had a couple that looked like the one you are concerned about (#7 and # 8 in the picture below) but my truck was running fine when I pulled them. I was more concerned about any buildup on them as that would indicate a more serious problem.
Update my truck turns on now but I have an issue where it sounds rough it saids it has a water in fuel (which it has never said until now and engine light on but no codes show up on my reader or on oriellys reader. I’m getting a Bluetooth wifi reader for FORScan so I can hopefully see something but never seen no scans show up with an obvious light on. Any ideas what’s going on it doesn’t sound rough idling only when driving no more white smoke though .
Have you open the fuel bowl to see if there is actually water there? You could also slide the bowl drain hose off and put a hose of your own in its place. Then put the hose in a clear jug and open the valve. Turn on the key and see what comes out.
If it's running rough the first thing I would do is pull the valve covers and check all the connections.
After I replaced my cups and sticks it ran "fine" (it was angry but all 8 cylinders were firing). I went back in for a hot torque of the injector bolts then it was running rough (only 1 cylinder felt like it was missing...not a whole bank). Pulled the valve covers and found that I knocked a connection loose.
Those valve covers barely fit over the injectors, UVCH, and connections. It doesn't take much frustration re-installing them to disturb something, even if it has a locking clip on it.
If it's running rough the first thing I would do is pull the valve covers and check all the connections.
After I replaced my cups and sticks it ran "fine" (it was angry but all 8 cylinders were firing). I went back in for a hot torque of the injector bolts then it was running rough (only 1 cylinder felt like it was missing...not a whole bank). Pulled the valve covers and found that I knocked a connection loose.
Those valve covers barely fit over the injectors, UVCH, and connections. It doesn't take much frustration re-installing them to disturb something, even if it has a locking clip on it.
would I have to remove any fluids I had a friend recommended I should check the fuel filter and add some fuel additive to help clean it up, could be that is hasn’t got use to running since I havent successfully turned it on for maybe a month or more and barely turned it on a couple hours since the repair . Today I was monitoring the temps and driving around a few blocks from my house with some Lucas and sea foam additive and it’s helped it .it just has maybe a lack of power I would say maybe I can get it on video .i have tried to get into the fuel filter but I don’t want to strip the plastic bolt I assume it a 25 because my biggest socket 24 wouldn’t fit all the way
I drained the coolant for the work (I also did new OEM oil cooler seals) and refilled with new.
I changed the oil for startup to make sure I had as little contamination as possible (as well as 500 miles later).
I never did anything to the fuel that was in there. It sat for 9 months with the same 1/2 tank of fuel. Once it was running again I ran it to 'E' and filled it up with fresh go-juice with a healthy amount of Diesel Kleen but that's about it. I did suspect some growth in the tank so did some biocide treatments.
For the fuel filter cap have you tried some channel-lock pliers? I would recommend sticking with OEM for most everything on these trucks as they tend to notice the difference. Personally I would ditch the aftermarket cap (is it the one with the filter incorporated as one unit?) and go back to the OEM setup. I had an OTC 6760 for the OEM fuel bowl lid.
I drained the coolant for the work (I also did new OEM oil cooler seals) and refilled with new.
I changed the oil for startup to make sure I had as little contamination as possible (as well as 500 miles later).
I never did anything to the fuel that was in there. It sat for 9 months with the same 1/2 tank of fuel. Once it was running again I ran it to 'E' and filled it up with fresh go-juice with a healthy amount of Diesel Kleen but that's about it. I did suspect some growth in the tank so did some biocide treatments.
For the fuel filter cap have you tried some channel-lock pliers? I would recommend sticking with OEM for most everything on these trucks as they tend to notice the difference. Personally I would ditch the aftermarket cap (is it the one with the filter incorporated as one unit?) and go back to the OEM setup. I had an OTC 6760 for the OEM fuel bowl lid.
Have you cleared the codes and this is what continues to come up? That's an interesting list of codes there. Kind of all over the map there. Which makes me think gremlin. Since you've got a battery voltage code and a power interruption code I'd probably start at the batteries. Disconnect them both from the truck and each other to verify voltage. Both should read the exact same and be no lower than 12.4v. If not charge them separately and recheck. Once that's squared I'd move on to all the main power connections making sure they are clean and tight. If that doesn't get you anywhere then on to the harness. Since you've recently done work on the injectors I'd start at the 42 pin going over everything with a fine toothed comb, looking for a sign of damage or just suspicious in general.
If you pulled cups and drained the radiator AFTER pulling the first cup chances are you got a ton of coolant in your oil. I actually pulled my oil pan drain plug 2 days after doing cups and a steady stream of coolant shot out before the oil because it had settled to the bottom of the oil pan (I am unable to pull my block drain plug on passenger side).
You may be running milky oil thru the heui system which would definitely cause issues
If you pulled cups and drained the radiator AFTER pulling the first cup chances are you got a ton of coolant in your oil. I actually pulled my oil pan drain plug 2 days after doing cups and a steady stream of coolant shot out before the oil because it had settled to the bottom of the oil pan (I am unable to pull my block drain plug on passenger side).
You may be running milky oil thru the heui system which would definitely cause issues
I drained my fluid after a day of having it open once I saw the coolant spill into oil pan after taking out the injectors.after flushing the fluids I saw the water in my oil bucket flushed out all the pistons by hand removed and replaced all injector orings ,cups,glow plugs and valve cover gasket. Then I filled up with new fluids and turned the truck on with some help of starter fluid a guy told me it could be the glow plugs and we went back and forward I told him I changed them and he said it could be the cause .
I'd definitely check all fluids, do a visual to see if anything looks awry, and re-check connections...especially the 42-pin (I would disconnect it, check pins, then make sure it is reconnected securely).
Once that's done I would clear all codes and start it again to see what shows up. Hopefully it's a smaller list that points to somewhere to start looking.
I'd definitely check all fluids, do a visual to see if anything looks awry, and re-check connections...especially the 42-pin (I would disconnect it, check pins, then make sure it is reconnected securely).
Once that's done I would clear all codes and start it again to see what shows up. Hopefully it's a smaller list that points to somewhere to start looking.
cleared some codes and noticed a few things
-3 wires that connected to glow plug relay were taped up as shown above with green circle and another single wire on the yellow circle (picture is an example took the picture from my other 7.3)
-noticed a fluid in the female end of the valve cover glow plug harness
-what I suspect to be wif sensor with a aluminum line with a rubber end meeting with the fuel filter was not connected
-diagnosed the glow plug relay right terminal or green circle in the picture above had no power with the key on motor off
-what I suspect to be wif sensor with a aluminum line with a rubber end meeting with the fuel filter was not connected
-diagnosed the glow plug relay right terminal or green circle in the picture above had no power with the key on motor off
Was the aluminum line coming in from the rear right below a yellow lever arm? I ask because what you describe sounds like the fuel bowl drain tube.
The GPR will cycle based on engine oil temp for anywhere between 0-120 seconds, the 0 only happening with temps over 140 I believe. So if you turn the key and get no reaction from the relay then something is up for sure. Here's the pinpoint test for the glow plug circuit from the tech section. It should help you trace the problem so you don't buy unnecessary parts.
