Front brakes
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2023
Posts: 51
Likes: 6
From: Naches, WA
correct. that is an adapter.
when bleeders are loosened, fluid will drain out until the master is empty. that is gravity bleeding.
something i definitely not rite if you open the bleeders and the brakes still drag.
either wrong rotors, wrong pads, or wrong calipers.
if the master was wrong, when you release the front brake line at the master it would release a spurt of pressuer and the wheels would then turn.
when bleeders are loosened, fluid will drain out until the master is empty. that is gravity bleeding.
something i definitely not rite if you open the bleeders and the brakes still drag.
either wrong rotors, wrong pads, or wrong calipers.
if the master was wrong, when you release the front brake line at the master it would release a spurt of pressuer and the wheels would then turn.
New pads matched the originals. Reman calipers were exactly the same as the ones that came off it. This truck never had this issue last fall when I was hauling firewood with it every weekend.
I lost fuel pressure, truck wouldn’t run, it sat all winter. Replaced my switching valve on the frame rail. Fixed my fuel issue. Took the truck to town one morning couple weeks ago to fuel her up. Brakes been giving me this problem since.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2023
Posts: 51
Likes: 6
From: Naches, WA
I’m at a loss guys. I’m a pretty decently skilled mechanic and all your suggestions are helpful for me to try and get this diagnosed but obviously this problem is still persisting. I really don’t know where to go from here other than to start throwing more parts at it and I think I’m gonna start with the front hard lines…..????? Thoughts?
I don’t want to do that, and I really don’t see any sense in doing it… even when I had the hard lines disconnected from the soft lines I wanted to make sure I wasn’t gonna shove any debris into the new soft lines and calipers, so I had my wife push the brakes couple times and shoved a boatload of nice fresh clean brake fluid about 6 feet across the shop…
I don’t want to do that, and I really don’t see any sense in doing it… even when I had the hard lines disconnected from the soft lines I wanted to make sure I wasn’t gonna shove any debris into the new soft lines and calipers, so I had my wife push the brakes couple times and shoved a boatload of nice fresh clean brake fluid about 6 feet across the shop…
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,928
Likes: 1,198
From: Mojave, Ca
For an apples-to-apples comparison, can you re-do that test using the '3 o-clock' lug nut. Changing the moment-arm changes the torque results.
And I just noticed it's a 4x4 dually, which was never a factory option for pickup trucks (only cab-and-chassis trucks). Was it originally a dually 2x4 that was converted to a 4x4, or a SRW 4X4 that was changed into a dually?
And I just noticed it's a 4x4 dually, which was never a factory option for pickup trucks (only cab-and-chassis trucks). Was it originally a dually 2x4 that was converted to a 4x4, or a SRW 4X4 that was changed into a dually?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,928
Likes: 1,198
From: Mojave, Ca
I’m at a loss guys. I’m a pretty decently skilled mechanic and all your suggestions are helpful for me to try and get this diagnosed but obviously this problem is still persisting. I really don’t know where to go from here other than to start throwing more parts at it and I think I’m gonna start with the front hard lines…..????? Thoughts?
I don’t want to do that, and I really don’t see any sense in doing it… even when I had the hard lines disconnected from the soft lines I wanted to make sure I wasn’t gonna shove any debris into the new soft lines and calipers, so I had my wife push the brakes couple times and shoved a boatload of nice fresh clean brake fluid about 6 feet across the shop…
I don’t want to do that, and I really don’t see any sense in doing it… even when I had the hard lines disconnected from the soft lines I wanted to make sure I wasn’t gonna shove any debris into the new soft lines and calipers, so I had my wife push the brakes couple times and shoved a boatload of nice fresh clean brake fluid about 6 feet across the shop…
If anything, I would pull the wheel off, pull the caliper off, and check the friction of your hub and bearings alone. Maybe your 4x4 hubs are actually locked, even thou they indicate unlocked (they are spring loaded). It wouldn't cause a dragging brake, but it would increase rotational torque.
Then check the calipers to ensure the pistons move in and out freely. You can use air pressure and a pressure regulator to find the minimum pressure it takes to slide the pistons out. It's not much. IIRC, 10-20psi will move the pistons.
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,481
Likes: 5,542
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
i know you put a list of all parts replaced so far, but i cant find it. but if i remember correctly you replaced everything except the rotors, correct?
that would be the only thing left to suspect causing the issue.
that would be the only thing left to suspect causing the issue.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,928
Likes: 1,198
From: Mojave, Ca
The OP also mentioned that rotating the tires with the bleeder open caused fluid to spurt out of it. In a perfect world, the run-out would be 0.000" and it wouldnt spurt fluid when rotating. I think the ford limit is 0.004". I don't know how much run-out it takes to spurt out fluid with the bleeder open.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,928
Likes: 1,198
From: Mojave, Ca
Ok. I just checked. 0.001" thickness variation. 0.005" lateral run-out. You're gunna need to get scientific to fix this one.
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Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 10,400
Likes: 2,606
From: Near Salt Lake City
You guys do realize that heavy truck brakes stick right?
Especially the dual piston caliper Fords
And the heavier the truck the worse it was back in the day
You jack that thing up on one side, and when you think the brakes are sticking, kick the tire real hard with a good boot on
That will loosen up the pad mount and the pins some and free up the pads / wheel (temporarily)
Then you can rotate the wheel easier
You reapply the brakes and it will stick some more
That's normal
Especially the dual piston caliper Fords
And the heavier the truck the worse it was back in the day
You jack that thing up on one side, and when you think the brakes are sticking, kick the tire real hard with a good boot on
That will loosen up the pad mount and the pins some and free up the pads / wheel (temporarily)
Then you can rotate the wheel easier
You reapply the brakes and it will stick some more
That's normal
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2023
Posts: 51
Likes: 6
From: Naches, WA
For an apples-to-apples comparison, can you re-do that test using the '3 o-clock' lug nut. Changing the moment-arm changes the torque results.
And I just noticed it's a 4x4 dually, which was never a factory option for pickup trucks (only cab-and-chassis trucks). Was it originally a dually 2x4 that was converted to a 4x4, or a SRW 4X4 that was changed into a dually?
And I just noticed it's a 4x4 dually, which was never a factory option for pickup trucks (only cab-and-chassis trucks). Was it originally a dually 2x4 that was converted to a 4x4, or a SRW 4X4 that was changed into a dually?
3 o clock position. 12-13 ft-lbs. I really don’t want to drive it and get them hot but if you really want me to in order to show the resistance after a few miles I guess I will..
It probably is a cab and chassis truck. Unfortunately the Vin number has been “relocated” and changed by WA State Patrol before I ever got the truck. I was able to get in contact with the original owner last year while attempting to get the title for it. He never mentioned doing any axle swapping or SRW to dually conversion or anything of the sort…. And he told me a lot of the work he had done to the truck. I know at some point in its life when he had it it had a service bed on it.. I know it was always a 4x4 back when he had it 25 years ago because he told me how this thing was unstoppable in the muck and mud that he run through compared to his newer trucks that get bogged down and stuck in it lol. It also has a 4x4 indicator lamp that illuminates on the dash when it’s in 4x.
I think it’s all original personally.
I’m about 98% sure the hubs are not locked. They work great. I used them all the time last fall dragging trees out and they would always go right into lock and unlock no problem.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2023
Posts: 51
Likes: 6
From: Naches, WA
Have not replaced rotors.
It has a new Master Cylinder, new pads and calipers (remanufactured calipers from
napa with the phenolic pistons) and new rubber brake hoses. Rotors are not worn badly but they are definitely worn. Maybe getting them as hot as I did that one morning warped the sh** out of them and are now causing my problem?? Mind you this problem started even with all the old brake components on the truck so I suppose that’s what I’m down to…. I’ve replaced everything else that has to do with the front brakes other than the booster. Which the booster tests out just fine.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2023
Posts: 51
Likes: 6
From: Naches, WA
You guys do realize that heavy truck brakes stick right?
Especially the dual piston caliper Fords
And the heavier the truck the worse it was back in the day
You jack that thing up on one side, and when you think the brakes are sticking, kick the tire real hard with a good boot on
That will loosen up the pad mount and the pins some and free up the pads / wheel (temporarily)
Then you can rotate the wheel easier
You reapply the brakes and it will stick some more
That's normal
Especially the dual piston caliper Fords
And the heavier the truck the worse it was back in the day
You jack that thing up on one side, and when you think the brakes are sticking, kick the tire real hard with a good boot on
That will loosen up the pad mount and the pins some and free up the pads / wheel (temporarily)
Then you can rotate the wheel easier
You reapply the brakes and it will stick some more
That's normal
I don’t have a normal amount of brake drag. I have smoking hot brakes after 3 miles of driving.
When I return from that drive, the rotors may or may not be glowing hot. That is definitely not normal…..
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 5,219
Likes: 805
You guys do realize that heavy truck brakes stick right?
Especially the dual piston caliper Fords
And the heavier the truck the worse it was back in the day
You jack that thing up on one side, and when you think the brakes are sticking, kick the tire real hard with a good boot on
That will loosen up the pad mount and the pins some and free up the pads / wheel (temporarily)
Then you can rotate the wheel easier
You reapply the brakes and it will stick some more
That's normal
Especially the dual piston caliper Fords
And the heavier the truck the worse it was back in the day
You jack that thing up on one side, and when you think the brakes are sticking, kick the tire real hard with a good boot on
That will loosen up the pad mount and the pins some and free up the pads / wheel (temporarily)
Then you can rotate the wheel easier
You reapply the brakes and it will stick some more
That's normal
Thread Starter
|
Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2023
Posts: 51
Likes: 6
From: Naches, WA
I would agree that a good amount of friction and brake drag is normal operation.
I don’t have a normal amount of brake drag. I have smoking hot brakes after 3 miles of driving.
When I return from that drive, the rotors may or may not be glowing hot. That is definitely not normal…..
I don’t have a normal amount of brake drag. I have smoking hot brakes after 3 miles of driving.
When I return from that drive, the rotors may or may not be glowing hot. That is definitely not normal…..
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,928
Likes: 1,198
From: Mojave, Ca
You guys do realize that heavy truck brakes stick right?
Especially the dual piston caliper Fords
And the heavier the truck the worse it was back in the day
You jack that thing up on one side, and when you think the brakes are sticking, kick the tire real hard with a good boot on
That will loosen up the pad mount and the pins some and free up the pads / wheel (temporarily)
Then you can rotate the wheel easier
You reapply the brakes and it will stick some more
That's normal
Especially the dual piston caliper Fords
And the heavier the truck the worse it was back in the day
You jack that thing up on one side, and when you think the brakes are sticking, kick the tire real hard with a good boot on
That will loosen up the pad mount and the pins some and free up the pads / wheel (temporarily)
Then you can rotate the wheel easier
You reapply the brakes and it will stick some more
That's normal
