So I’ve got an option for replacement calipers.
Napa has Remans with the phenolic pistons only.
Oreilly has Remans with plastic pistons - I assume they’re phenolic being phenolic is essentially plastic right.
no option for steel piston calipers near me which is what I’d prefer…. What would you go with?

 

Go with the ones with the best warranty
They all work just fine IMO

 

Trouble finding a rebuild kit with steel pistons too. Even if I go with the rebuild kit I’m gonna have to wait till it comes in. I’ve got today off work, I wanna get this knocked out.

 

Buy the AZ calipers and be done with it
Gravity bleed is your friend
Then the actual bleed procedure is quick

 

Soooooo, after new master cylinder, new calipers, pads and front brake hoses. Damn things are still dragging like crazy. What the heck do I do now? I’m dumbfounded. And a little upset too. Lol

 

The vacuum booster may be applying itself. What happens if you disconnect your brake booster vacuum hose and cap the hose for a short drive? You wont have power-brakes so be careful when you drive it.

 

I unplugged the Vaccum line on the booster when I was on my way back from the short drive to test out my new brakes I was all excited about! Made no difference whatsoever. Things are still dragging, and I mean dragging. They’re hot. I gotta give this ol girl the beans to get moving!

So what I’m gonna do now is adjust the push rod in on the booster.
For the sake of remembering my adjustment I’ll write it here. 3.5 turns in.
Gonna let the brakes cool and go for a drive again.

This is outrageous……. I adjusted the booster rod in 3.5 turns 1.5 hours ago. I just cracked the front caliper bleeders 2 minutes ago and they’re still just sitting here dribbling. I’m almost certain the pushrod adjustment will do nothing for me but I’m down to the point I gotta go go 1 STEP at a time to even attempt to figure this out. It’s making no sense.

I still have the “Rear Antilock” light come on, but only when I get over 35mph. Code reads “stop lamp switch malfunction”
Could this have something to do with my issue? I don’t think it could but it seems like it’s related…….!!!!!

Im also gonna try driving the truck under 35 and never turn the light on…. See what that does for me. I “know” it can’t be related but for some odd reason I feel like it is….

Any and ALL insight and suggestions is more than welcome! I need all the help and ideas and thoughts and experiences I can get at this point. Thank you all for your participation! Trophies for everybody.

 

Any tips for confirming proper booster operation?
other than the good ol’ “pedal test” and hooking a Vaccum gauge to the Vaccum line test?

 

How are your wheel bearings? Loose wheel bearings can cause brake drag.
Reading the ford factory service manual. It also suggest checking the stop light switch on the brake pedal for proper installation.

 

brake light adjustment should not have any effect on the way the brakes themself work.. the switch only turns the brake lights on and off.
and cruise control off if you have cruise.

 

I agree. It shouldn't have an effect on the brake operation, but the FSM suggest looking at it and the OP has a RABS trouble codes for stop lights. Maybe they're related. Perhaps the switch is rotating and jamming on something, causing the brakes to no fully release. That would cause his abs code and dragging brakes.

 

never thought of a bad ABS module. i believe 94 was the first year for 4 wheel ABS, so that could be the problem.

 

My truck is an 89
Only has ABS in the rear.
I’ve bled till I’m blue in the face.
checking for wobble in the fronts they’re tight as a ticks *** ball joints and wheel bearings are all good and tight on the ol’ girl.

The code I get is “stop lamp switch malfunction” but my brake lights are perfectly operable…

 

From what I understand, no 9th Gen truck got 4wheel abs. Only the broncos got 4wabs. I may be wrong.

 

It's just a cotter pin to remove the stop light switch from the pedal. Try removing it and drive it around the block a few times.