Front brakes
#16
So I’ve got an option for replacement calipers.
Napa has Remans with the phenolic pistons only.
Oreilly has Remans with plastic pistons - I assume they’re phenolic being phenolic is essentially plastic right.
no option for steel piston calipers near me which is what I’d prefer…. What would you go with?
Napa has Remans with the phenolic pistons only.
Oreilly has Remans with plastic pistons - I assume they’re phenolic being phenolic is essentially plastic right.
no option for steel piston calipers near me which is what I’d prefer…. What would you go with?
#17
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#18
#20
#21
The vacuum booster may be applying itself. What happens if you disconnect your brake booster vacuum hose and cap the hose for a short drive? You wont have power-brakes so be careful when you drive it.
#22
I unplugged the Vaccum line on the booster when I was on my way back from the short drive to test out my new brakes I was all excited about! Made no difference whatsoever. Things are still dragging, and I mean dragging. They’re hot. I gotta give this ol girl the beans to get moving!
So what I’m gonna do now is adjust the push rod in on the booster.
For the sake of remembering my adjustment I’ll write it here. 3.5 turns in.
Gonna let the brakes cool and go for a drive again.
This is outrageous……. I adjusted the booster rod in 3.5 turns 1.5 hours ago. I just cracked the front caliper bleeders 2 minutes ago and they’re still just sitting here dribbling. I’m almost certain the pushrod adjustment will do nothing for me but I’m down to the point I gotta go go 1 STEP at a time to even attempt to figure this out. It’s making no sense.
I still have the “Rear Antilock” light come on, but only when I get over 35mph. Code reads “stop lamp switch malfunction”
Could this have something to do with my issue? I don’t think it could but it seems like it’s related…….!!!!!
Im also gonna try driving the truck under 35 and never turn the light on…. See what that does for me. I “know” it can’t be related but for some odd reason I feel like it is….
Any and ALL insight and suggestions is more than welcome! I need all the help and ideas and thoughts and experiences I can get at this point. Thank you all for your participation! Trophies for everybody.
So what I’m gonna do now is adjust the push rod in on the booster.
For the sake of remembering my adjustment I’ll write it here. 3.5 turns in.
Gonna let the brakes cool and go for a drive again.
This is outrageous……. I adjusted the booster rod in 3.5 turns 1.5 hours ago. I just cracked the front caliper bleeders 2 minutes ago and they’re still just sitting here dribbling. I’m almost certain the pushrod adjustment will do nothing for me but I’m down to the point I gotta go go 1 STEP at a time to even attempt to figure this out. It’s making no sense.
I still have the “Rear Antilock” light come on, but only when I get over 35mph. Code reads “stop lamp switch malfunction”
Could this have something to do with my issue? I don’t think it could but it seems like it’s related…….!!!!!
Im also gonna try driving the truck under 35 and never turn the light on…. See what that does for me. I “know” it can’t be related but for some odd reason I feel like it is….
Any and ALL insight and suggestions is more than welcome! I need all the help and ideas and thoughts and experiences I can get at this point. Thank you all for your participation! Trophies for everybody.
#24
#25
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
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#26
#27
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
Posts: 61,115
Received 3,181 Likes
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2,217 Posts
#28
My truck is an 89
Only has ABS in the rear.
I’ve bled till I’m blue in the face.
checking for wobble in the fronts they’re tight as a ticks *** ball joints and wheel bearings are all good and tight on the ol’ girl.
The code I get is “stop lamp switch malfunction” but my brake lights are perfectly operable…
Only has ABS in the rear.
I’ve bled till I’m blue in the face.
checking for wobble in the fronts they’re tight as a ticks *** ball joints and wheel bearings are all good and tight on the ol’ girl.
The code I get is “stop lamp switch malfunction” but my brake lights are perfectly operable…
#29
#30
My truck is an 89
Only has ABS in the rear.
I’ve bled till I’m blue in the face.
checking for wobble in the fronts they’re tight as a ticks *** ball joints and wheel bearings are all good and tight on the ol’ girl.
The code I get is “stop lamp switch malfunction” but my brake lights are perfectly operable…
Only has ABS in the rear.
I’ve bled till I’m blue in the face.
checking for wobble in the fronts they’re tight as a ticks *** ball joints and wheel bearings are all good and tight on the ol’ girl.
The code I get is “stop lamp switch malfunction” but my brake lights are perfectly operable…
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