Engine Rebuild Kits
Thread Starter
|
Trailering
Joined: Feb 2024
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Engine Rebuild Kits
I have a 1949 Ford F1 truck with Flathead v8 239. I'm looking for a quality engine rebuild kit (no China junk if possible): valve springs + guides, engine gaskets, oil pump, piston set with pins +rings, main bearing set, camshaft bearing set, etc. Just need stock replacements or close to it.
Is this good or junk?
https://www.cleggengine.com/engine-r...1949-1953.html
If you all were going to pull the engine what would you change? Assuming water pumps + listed above. I have (2) engines both seized up don't know the history. I was hoping to get them magaflux tested and resurfaced and possibly hone the cylinders if needed.
Is this good or junk?
https://www.cleggengine.com/engine-r...1949-1953.html
If you all were going to pull the engine what would you change? Assuming water pumps + listed above. I have (2) engines both seized up don't know the history. I was hoping to get them magaflux tested and resurfaced and possibly hone the cylinders if needed.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,299
Likes: 1,059
From: NM
Those components look good to me, almost exactly what I spec'd when I had my engine rebuilt. Not familiar with those cam bearings, tho. Maybe Clevite isn't making them anymore?
Honestly I'd be amazed if you can get by with a hone job. That rebuild set includes new pistons, if you aren't going to bore it I'm not sure I'd replace the pistons. Why did the engines seize, are they rusty in the bores?
Honestly I'd be amazed if you can get by with a hone job. That rebuild set includes new pistons, if you aren't going to bore it I'm not sure I'd replace the pistons. Why did the engines seize, are they rusty in the bores?
Thread Starter
|
Trailering
Joined: Feb 2024
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Those components look good to me, almost exactly what I spec'd when I had my engine rebuilt. Not familiar with those cam bearings, tho. Maybe Clevite isn't making them anymore?
Honestly I'd be amazed if you can get by with a hone job. That rebuild set includes new pistons, if you aren't going to bore it I'm not sure I'd replace the pistons. Why did the engines seize, are they rusty in the bores?
Honestly I'd be amazed if you can get by with a hone job. That rebuild set includes new pistons, if you aren't going to bore it I'm not sure I'd replace the pistons. Why did the engines seize, are they rusty in the bores?
Parts Nerd Extraordinaire
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,384
Likes: 1,792
From: Western NY
We are getting into questions that really can't be answered until the blocks are disassembled and evaluated to understand condition, any previous bore operations and whatnot. If going this far with a rebuild, I would highly considering putting in new pistons and rings anyways as in the grand scope, they don't cost that much.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 2,927
Likes: 135
From: Houston
Disassemble the engine(s) before purchasing anything. Make sure you have a rebuildable block. Flathead V8s are know for freeze cracks in the oil pan rail and heat cracks in the cylinder head deck. There are a lot of flathead V8 motors still out there, you may need to dig into a few to find a good block. Once you have a good block, then purchase the pistons and other parts that fit the rebuild that engine needs.
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 405
Likes: 30
From: Manitoba, Canada
Completely disassemble the engine
Take it to machine shop with the crank
Have machine shop check for cracks (magnaflux)
If the block has acceptable cracks (They all have some, but not all cracks are created equal) then have them tell you the next piston oversize you can bore to, and what they can turn the crank to.
Many people go to the common overbore of .125 over on these blocks and move to a modern piston.
However before you know that block is useable don't bother spending any other money.
Kirk
Take it to machine shop with the crank
Have machine shop check for cracks (magnaflux)
If the block has acceptable cracks (They all have some, but not all cracks are created equal) then have them tell you the next piston oversize you can bore to, and what they can turn the crank to.
Many people go to the common overbore of .125 over on these blocks and move to a modern piston.
However before you know that block is useable don't bother spending any other money.
Kirk
Trending Topics
Parts Nerd Extraordinaire
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,384
Likes: 1,792
From: Western NY
There is no way I would go .125 over on a first bore... I would keep it as small as possible, the first jump usually is .030.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Parts Nerd Extraordinaire
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,384
Likes: 1,792
From: Western NY
It depends upon what one is going for. For longevity and less risks, you go with the smallest bore you can and that is what most any experienced traditional Flathead machinist do. Any cost difference is more than made up for when you account for .125 approaching the limit of the block bore and thus needing to obtain a new block at the next rebuild. Now, those chasing excessive performance will go straight to the largest bore, so for the folks you may hang around, your 80% guestimate may be true, but not necessarily universally advisable.
.125 is no more a standard oversized piston than say .030 and .060.
.125 is no more a standard oversized piston than say .030 and .060.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,779
Likes: 557
From: Kalispell, MT
While many flatheads can be bored to +.125" you should always have it sonic tested before you go that far. If there happens to be a thin spot in the casting you'll be into the water jacket.
An old flathead friend wanted to keep at least .090" of wall thickness to avoid hot spots and wall waving.
An old flathead friend wanted to keep at least .090" of wall thickness to avoid hot spots and wall waving.
FTE Community Team
Joined: Dec 2023
Posts: 8,888
Likes: 4,282
From: sussex county, nj
i always have our local machine shop tell us what it needs to be bore to, always have them check for cracks esp in the center exhaust ports we never go past 080. unless building a big inch stroker.
parts wise that's a good price all good parts, durabond happens to be a good product
parts wise that's a good price all good parts, durabond happens to be a good product
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 405
Likes: 30
From: Manitoba, Canada
At 0.125 over you are still good to bore twice more. When you move to a modern piston and low tension rings, you are never going to wear a cylinder again. They are the reason we don't do this anymore with modern cars.
Flatheads are amongst the most expensive motors to build at this time, so be sure to make the best decisions for your personal situation.
Kirk
Flatheads are amongst the most expensive motors to build at this time, so be sure to make the best decisions for your personal situation.
Kirk
Parts Nerd Extraordinaire
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,384
Likes: 1,792
From: Western NY
Kirk, it seems you are advocating for moly piston rings and the matching pistons. Those technologies and the advantages they tout do not really matter much for our pickup trucks, only for those who excessively and compulsively chase performance and building out their engines as such. As many have stated, .125 is just about it as far as one can optimistically hope to take an average flathead block. And as to why we don't rebuild modern engines these days, well, it comes down to time and cost. By the time the engine is worn, the vehicle isn't worth the rebuild and the abundance of running junkyard donor engines is plentiful and more cost effective. Even when modern engines have issues with the pistons and rings (such as Subaru), the warranty fix isn't to rebuild the engine, but to swap it for a new short block because of time and costs. In our hobby, the costs doesn't always have to make sense, but not all of us need racing performance builds.