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just be careful about Dave's dull and meaningless existence.
he is a moderator. and being such, if you prove him wrong too many times he can smack you top side the head with the ban hammer!!!
just be careful about Dave's dull and meaningless existence.
One thing I want to emphasize, about how much of a gentleman Dave really is. I mentioned how I'll occasionally throw him a bone, but those events (of me being the W word) are few and far between. Meanwhile, Dave is constantly posting wrong stuff to make all of the rest of us feel better on a regular basis. What a guy, huh! My hat is off to you, Dave, for always thinking of us!
so i tossed and ripped the chinese plug wires out with a vengeance.
pulled the valve cover gasket and my neighbor comes back over. asks me to rotate motor by hand. i do, he says you have no compression. i said i'm not calling yih a liar but i don't understand it ran fine before we effed w it yesterday.
i tell him to put his finger on the plug hole as i rotate the motor w key, loud squeak from cylinder blowing his finger off. i just can't tell where tdc compression is as this motor was built at a shop and the balancer doesn't seem to line up w pointer. i wanna put it together , piston is at the top but i don't know if it's compression or exhaust stroke.
When you rotate the engine by hand the #1 cylinder will pressurize on the compression stroke (pressure against finger), before it reaches the top of the stroke, insert a chop stick and watch it rise, when at the top, mark the balancer @TDC. in this position the rotor (if you have one) in the distributor must point to #1 wire.. Without reading the thread again, I dont know what engine you have..
302. im about where i think tdc is, and the button on rotor is pointing at 1 on cap, but on my
motor from front looking rearward, it shows about the 1o'clock position. on pictures online it shows num 1 about 10 o'clock
to confirm TDC, when you feel compression in plug hole check valves with valve cover off. if piston is topped out in the hole, both valves will be closed.
302. im about where i think tdc is, and the button on rotor is pointing at 1 on cap, but on my
motor from front looking rearward, it shows about the 1o'clock position. on pictures online it shows num 1 about 10 o'clock
If you are sure you are at #1 TDC, If the rotor is pointing to #1 wire, it does not matter where the wire is on the cap. And then from that position of all the wires are in the correct sequence around the cap, it will run. The only problem I have run into with this is the sparkplug wire set will not fit very well. As you said, the factory had #1 somewhere else on the cap circle. And the cylinders on the engine are always where they are. So the manufacturer cuts the sparkplug wires to fit the factory positions. So some of your wires, even if you move them around, still sometimes are a little too long or a little too short.
If you want to fix this problem, set the engine to #1 TDC and the rotor is pointing to #1 sparkplug wire. Don't move the engine. Pick the distributor up out of the engine, rotate the rotor to where you want #1 to be, and set it back down in the engine. Then simply move #1 wire to the new position. Then put all the other wires in the right sequence.
i have a shop built 302. rv cam, roller motor.
per the paperwork.
i decided to go tdc n use HO firing order. new duralast gold plugs vs chinese red ones.
wentbto crank n it wanted to start. turned dist clockwise, closer but ran out of room from the water pump hose. pulled the dist n reset a tooth of two n it fired right off. now still a miss. but this time a diff cylinder. i think it's a bad cap. on way home now.
i always try to get brass contact cap and rotor.
i found the aluminum contact parts ain't worth a damn.
another thing to check is for play in the distributor.
not only side to side, but also up and down play.
i see what you see, any change in variable should lead to a different result.
the desired result would be all cylinders hitting as they should.
will that happen? we'll know in the morning. i'm either sending vid of a running truck (better then ever before bc when i got it the pcv valve was lost behind the motor and the firewall and i didn't know it was there, it now idles on 7 cylinders better then 8) or what it looks like after i put "for free" signs and leave it in the wawa parking lot.
it's said time and time again, it's been said over and over. it has been repeated on loop.
change one thing at a time.
new plugs wires, standard fire order, dead cylinder num 1. neighbor swore dead cylinder, i swore no way no how.
rewired to ho firing order and now cylinder 3 was dead. okay, 1 is working 3 is not.
bought new cap and rotor, wired ho, 3 is still dead.
just rewired to standard and she popped right off, no miss, and idling quiet and smoother then ever with an actual working pcv valve in the valve cover versus a broken one behind the engine block.
had i just replaced the cap and rotor and kept standard firing order, ida saved a bunch of time however i did the devils work and changed two variables at once, chasing my azz.
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