When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a problem. I have a 56 ford longbox. I need to convert the box to a shortbox. I understand that you cut in two places. Behind the cab and behind the rear wheels. I just not sure how much to take off. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Look up the wheelbase for each model. Subtract the diference, and that has to be the amount to remove in the wheelbase area. If you could find somebody who has a short wheelbase '56 that would let you crawl under it with a tape measure it would probably help. I think I'd do all the research and measuring myself before I started cutting!
first, welcome to FTE... the best information/fellowship site for Ford trucks in this universe (probably). One suggestion I'll offer you for future reference... when you type in the title of your post use something as descriptive as possible.. like instead of '56 ford truck" you could say "I want to shorten my long bed to a short bed truck" it helps the casual viewer know what your subject is and when searching the archives it narrows down the search considerable... I'm not scolding you... just trying of help...:-x04 now
I'm sure you've thought of this but if you haven't... when you shorten the bed you're also shortening fuel lines, brake lines, e-brake cables, driveshaft and of course the bed... but a new bed is the answer probably...
There was an article a couple years back about doing this in one of the truck magazines on a Che#y frame. The proper way to do this is with a "Z" cut thru the frame rail to give you more weld surface
of course section A and B are identical in length and equal to the amount of frame you want to remove... I'd make my cuts in the straightest section I could... under the cab or behind it, before the rail starts to flare. The cuts are best made with plasma cutter (cleaner) but you can use a torch with some grinding to dress it up properly... better the fit...better the weld !
make sure you have ample support on all 4 corners when you cut.. things could get away from you quickly.
I'd rather do this on a bare frame. pick some good reference points for measurements so you can check diagonals, plumb and square... a 3-4' piece of flat bar or angle clamped to the frame rails will line them up well and I'd say to put in some overlapping plate inside the rail for more support.
There have been some threads on this subject before... check the archives..
feel free to use the forum and ask all the questions you want... the guys on this site are the friendliest and most helpful you'll find anywhere.. and don't forget to search the archives and tech section... there is more knowledge there than you'll find on any other 5 sites combined
Since there are people out there looking for long boxs and parts, I would consider selling the long box and using the money for a new short box. Might cost a few bucks more, but it would really be nice to start with new straight sheet metal and save rare parts for those who need them.
Thanks for all of your help guys, there is alot of work that I need to do over the entire project, it's nice to know that there is help just a key board away. Thanks!
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.