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Like Kevin said, the wires plug in on the light side of the switch. The offset in the switch-hole gives the room the wires need.
The hoops on the back of the switch are not the contacts. They slip inside the hoops. The little hooks in the end of the contacts (A) hold the bullet connectors in.
I'm guessing where you opened the hoops and forced the bullet connectors in is putting too much pressure on the contacts, pressing them into the switch and preventing the slide from moving.
I will compare it closer to the original switch I have. It didn't have continuity between the contracts but maybe it will just need some cleaning.
The original switch still had wires attached and the Ford bullet connectors actually had a connector coming in from each side.
Color me confused ?
Not really familiar with 6 volt circuits as I converted my '51 to 12 volt.
Your wiring diagram looks like it switches the current on the hot (battery) side of the circuit (a two wire system).
Most dome light circuits switch on the ground side, the bulb is hot all the time but the circuit is not completed until the lamp is grounded.
A one wire system, I think this was so that the door jam switch was only one wire to ground. This would explain the lack of continuity (maybe).
In the shared wiring diagram, the light is always grounded to the frame via the fixture. Then either door switch (dual terminal) can complete the circuit through to the battery, or the dome light switch itself can complete the circuit to the battery allowing all illumination triggers.
I compared the two switches, the modern one is slightly bigger. I bought this one at LMC truck.
Working the switch got it moving again. EffieTrucker was correct, my widening pressed one of the contacts in which caused the problem.
I managed to blow a fuse on my first attempt with it wired together. My switch must have contacted the cab.
Notice the original bullet connectors going out each side. Not sure how they managed that, but they are considerably shorter than mine.
