Hi
I'm new here and am looking for info on rans shift modules but saw your post.
i own an ex and a 550. you don't wany to put 550 springs on your ex.
I just installed Rancho 9000 shock on both f then and the ride difference was unbeleivable. Dual shocks on front end.
the same dual kit worked for both.
Also found rear lower shock mounting 2" in wrong place.
1 shock bent and the other one upper rubbing on shock.

Back to the trans shife issue.
I just installed a Banks trans module and can feel no difference ion the shifting.
Anyone know of a shift kit to firm u shifting?

 

I don't think the X-code springs are actually 550 springs, they are 350 snowplow option springs I believe. I may of course be wrong here, but I was told actual 550 springs won't fit on the Ex.

I have the W code springs (A V10 is 400lbs lighter than the PSD, and the W code is rated 400lbs lower than the X code springs)

I think they are great. Big bumps are gone. Speedbumps you don't even have to slow down for anymore. However, they DO require adjustable shocks, as my shocks were set on a very firm setting with the old springs, now with the W springs, the shocks are set at very soft.

I also have the rear sway bar and a superchip, and the four of these combined (chip, sway bar, shocks and springs) has given me an entirely new truck.

As for MPG, i get around 14-16 on highway. Go above 70 and you're better off looking at the temprature display instead. On straight roads with little or no hills, no overtaking etc I have seen 20MPG.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 03-Feb-02 AT 10:49 PM (EST)]>I don't think the X-code springs are actually 550 springs,
>they are 350 snowplow option springs I believe. I may of
>course be wrong here, but I was told actual 550 springs
>won't fit on the Ex.

I understood them to be one in the same.


>I have the W code springs (A V10 is 400lbs lighter than the
>PSD, and the W code is rated 400lbs lower than the X code
>springs)
>As for MPG, i get around 14-16 on highway. Go above 70 and
>you're better off looking at the temprature display instead.
> On straight roads with little or no hills, no overtaking
>etc I have seen 20MPG.


I'm sorta confused. Do you have a V10 or PSD? Your reference to the springs you have and then to the temp display comment, well made me a bit confused. If you got a PSD and only get 14-16mpg on the highway, you might want to look into propane too. I just got 17.5 average highway with my V10!! If you got a V10, why would I want to look at my temp gauge?

Since you got "W's" on the front, what did you do to the rear or is it now level? Why do I need adjustable shocks? Those RS9000 are not cheap! I've heard that the Monroe Reflex's and RSX's are a good choice too. Although the Ranchos are said to be a bit stiff.

I have pondered the thought of changing out my front springs to the "U's" but only to provide a bit more travel. Wouldn't re-arching give me the same effect?

 

>>I have the W code springs (A V10 is 400lbs lighter than the
>>PSD, and the W code is rated 400lbs lower than the X code
>>springs)
>>As for MPG, i get around 14-16 on highway. Go above 70 and
>>you're better off looking at the temprature display instead.
>> On straight roads with little or no hills, no overtaking
>>etc I have seen 20MPG.
>
>
>I'm sorta confused. Do you have a V10 or PSD?

V10

>Your reference
>to the springs you have and then to the temp display
>comment, well made me a bit confused.

The trip computer - Go above 70mph and you don't even /want/ to see your MPG display, you want to switch it to outside temprature.


>Since you got "W's" on the front, what did you do to the
>rear or is it now level? Why do I need adjustable shocks?
>Those RS9000 are not cheap! I've heard that the Monroe
>Reflex's and RSX's are a good choice too. Although the
>Ranchos are said to be a bit stiff.

The rear sits 1/2 inch lower, but I don't really care about it.

I don't know if you *need* adjustable shocks, but mine are, and they make a WORLD of difference tweaking up and down. I even adjust them for the type of driving I'll be doing. (Firm for long hauls, soft around town)

Mine are Koni adjustables.

>I have pondered the thought of changing out my front springs
>to the "U's" but only to provide a bit more travel. Wouldn't
>re-arching give me the same effect?

I don't know about re-arching, to be honest I don't even know what that is, but a U will probably give you a 100% level truck. I have no experience with the U code as opposed to the W code, but I'm really satisfied with mine.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 04-Feb-02 AT 09:01 PM (EST)]>The trip computer - Go above 70mph and you don't even /want/
>to see your MPG display, you want to switch it to outside
>temprature.

Yeah, I'd have to agree with that!! Although running at 70 (2000rpm+/-20) I yield a consistent 17mpg. That is with tires (E's) @ 60psi & 3.73's.


>I don't know about re-arching, to be honest I don't even
>know what that is, but a U will probably give you a 100%
>level truck. I have no experience with the U code as
>opposed to the W code, but I'm really satisfied with mine.

Re-arching is just what the name implies. You basically put the spring in a contraption that *bends* the spring so that there is 1-2" more arch when uninstalled. Therefore you'll have 1-2" more travel when installed. That's why I've been asking around about it. Re-arching can be done for as little as $50 around here. I haven't talked with anyone who has dome it yet. I will have a bit more *room* in compression but not sure what happens on the rebound. Guess, I'll call a spring shop...I'm still debating. I don't bottom out all that often. Not like the PSD Excursions seem to anyway. Plus, I like the nose down look of stock. When towing and loaded up with the family it sits level...I figure if I start fooling around with stuff, I'm gonna end with a monsta truck that my kids won't be able to get in to...Hey!!! Now there's a thought.....

 

I didn't put in the springs to get more travel because it bottomed out, I put it in there to make it "springier".

My understanding of the spring situation is that the stock springs are so under-dimensioned that they are actually in full tension when standing still, so you get *more* "spring" from a higher rated spring, contrary to what logic should imply. Everyone and their cousin round here told me it would just make it rock-hard, but I actually DO find it "springier" with the W-code once I took the plunge.

Stock my truck was VERY unstable, then added the shocks, set at almost max firmness because of the lack of spring travel & the springs being underdimensioned. This made the car a lot more stable, but in return I got a very stiff ride. So I added the springs, and then reduced the firmness of the shocks, so now I have soft shocks and higher rates springs, which seems to be a pretty darn good combination. I can easily do heavy potholes at regular speeds now.

I know, doesn't make a whole lotta sense, but I'm not into the technical details that much anyway, I just want to drive the thing.