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Well, I went to change my turbo out, built a turbo with the KC turbine wheel, riffraff compressor wheel, 360 bearing kit, .84 housing, deleted pedestal, etc. the works. Following instructions from riffraff website.
says torque compressor wheel onto shaft to 10 ft lbs…. That is 100% fake news. Got it to 8.9 and it wasn’t feeling good so I stopped. Thought I would be in the clear because I got it to spin freely and it felt decent…. Couldn’t have been further from the truth. Got it back in the truck and got it started, made it about 10 miles and the stretch made itself evident…. Chewed up turbine side seal ring when the wheel came loose and the white smoke started.
I don't think the torque was the issue because I have always torqued compressor wheels to 120 inch lbs (10 ft lbs) with no issue. Did you inspect the KC shaft and make sure the threaded portion didn't snap? I did have that happen once on a Garrett shaft after rebuilding it. I would also check the calibration on your torque wrench and make sure it is accurate because that shouldn't really be enough torque to cause harm to the shaft or the wheel. If it didn't feel right you really should have taken it apart and inspected it before running the turbo to prevent damage, that is too bad.
I don't think the torque was the issue because I have always torqued compressor wheels to 120 inch lbs (10 ft lbs) with no issue. Did you inspect the KC shaft and make sure the threaded portion didn't snap? I did have that happen once on a Garrett shaft after rebuilding it. I would also check the calibration on your torque wrench and make sure it is accurate because that shouldn't really be enough torque to cause harm to the shaft or the wheel. If it didn't feel right you really should have taken it apart and inspected it before running the turbo to prevent damage, that is too bad.
torque was done with a recently calibrated 1/4” drive snap on, and verified with a electronic 3/8” snap on.
torque was done with a recently calibrated 1/4” drive snap on, and verified with a electronic 3/8” snap on.
If that is the case I would call @Riffraff Diesel and ask them about it. Not sure they can do much since it was run and destroyed but might be worth asking just in case. Maybe if you send them the compressor wheel they could warranty it for you just as a courtesy even though they won't be able to tell much with it blown up.
If that is the case I would call @Riffraff Diesel and ask them about it. Not sure they can do much since it was run and destroyed but might be worth asking just in case. Maybe if you send them the compressor wheel they could warranty it for you just as a courtesy even though they won't be able to tell much with it blown up.
yea I kinda figure I assumed all the liability buying DIY components rather than buying a complete turbo. I know that’s how it is with the KC turbo parts I bought anyway.
I do want to say I’m not trying to disparage riffraff or anything. I’ve purchased parts from them as far back as I’ve owned my first Powerstroke. This turbo build has just turned into a huge disappointment and a huge expense.
What I see as the most likely culprit is the turbine shaft can’t handle 10ft lbs of torque. It looks to me like it stretched a fudge where the threads start.
If the turbine side oil seal is chewed up and the wheel became loose (end play) that points to an incorrect install of the oil seal. I have personally installed them wrong (over expanded the ring mounting it onto the turbine shaft). When this happens you don't get the crisp "click" when installing the turbine into the CHRA. Next I had issues with how much torque to install the compressor wheel because "it didn't feel right" but spun ok. Instead of 10 miles it made it 20 and tore up the turbo. The turbo had about 1/4" of end play and the oil seal was destroyed. That was my experience.
If the turbine side oil seal is chewed up and the wheel became loose (end play) that points to an incorrect install of the oil seal. I have personally installed them wrong (over expanded the ring mounting it onto the turbine shaft). When this happens you don't get the crisp "click" when installing the turbine into the CHRA. Next I had issues with how much torque to install the compressor wheel because "it didn't feel right" but spun ok. Instead of 10 miles it made it 20 and tore up the turbo. The turbo had about 1/4" of end play and the oil seal was destroyed. That was my experience.
the seal ring was installed properly, and did click into place as it should. Turbine was seated and spun smooth as butter. When I installed the compressor wheel and began torquing all was well until it got above 8ft lbs. then things started to bind, so I stopped, backed it off, ensured everything was still able to spin freely and tried again, same result at 8.9 ft lbs. backed it off again, ensured it spun freely and snugged it up to 8, still spun freely and turbine wheel was seated, no end play and side to side within spec so I thought I was good. Wrong.
Last night I was thinking about the other turbos I built (the one I took off my truck I built 9ish years ago, only reason I took it off this week was to put that turbo on my 2wd I bought and get the .84 housing on the 4wd) and I built several for friends who bought the riffraff wheel I kept getting 60 in lbs in my head as the torque value for the compressor wheel.
Googling I’ve even seen folks claiming that there is a bulletin from Garrett saying the spec is 20 in. Lbs + 30 degrees. But I haven’t seen the bulletin.
I’m not sure that they will respond but I emailed Garrett directly for clarification. If they respond I’ll post it.
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