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So I've consistently been getting codes 31 and 34 on my 1991 5.0 (in the memory I believe) and I'm wondering if I need to replace the EGR, I pulled the top electrical part off, and the needle moves freely, when I unplug the green vacuum line, nothing happens, is something supposed to? There is vac, I can feel it, but I just want to know if I should replace the part.
Also don't know what this connector is for, it's just there
So I've consistently been getting codes 31 and 34 on my 1992 5.0 (in the memory I believe) and I'm wondering if I need to replace the EGR, I pulled the top electrical part off, and the needle moves freely, when I unplug the green vacuum line, nothing happens, is something supposed to? There is vac, I can feel it, but I just want to know if I should replace the part.
It's possible you have 2 separate EGR problems.
1. There should not be any vacuum at the EGR valve at idle, so either the control solenoid is bad or there is a wiring or PCM fault.
2. Vacuum on the EGR valve at idle will normally cause a rough idle or stalling as it leans out the mixture too much, so if it doesn't as in your case then the diaphram in valve is ruptured and the valve is not opening or the port in the intake is completely blocked with carbon.
Originally Posted by Junktownbill99
Also don't know what this connector is for, it's just there
The code is in the stored memory? You have cleared the memory and it returns? No, nothing it supposed to happen. There should be no vacuum on that line at idle. Apply vacuum to the EGR valve. Does the engine stumble /die?
It does not look like it has ever been connected. A/c compressor?
Edit, I'll check that little green line again, to make sure it's vaccum I'm feeling, yes the codes seem to come back.
I wonder why my compressor clutch wouldn't be connected, my ac has like no refrigerant (r-12) and there's nowhere to plug that thing into, the compressor is plugged in though
This is a copy from my thread of what I found while diagnosing my EGR issues...
Code 558(84) EGR vacuum regulator solenoid/circuit failure
332(32) EGR did not open/respond
code 331(31) indicates the EVP sensor is below close limit of .67 volts. Check for shorts in harness or sensor
code 332(32) indicates the EVP sensor did not change after the EVR solenoid was commanded to open the EGR valve. If code 558(84) is NOT present, this indicates a vacuum problem or stuck EGR valve(mechanical issue)
Code 334(34): EVP circuit above the closed limit of 0.67 volts. This can be caused by a faulty EGR valve, EVP sensor or the EGR Valve Regulator (EVR) could allow vacuum through to the EGR when it is not supposed to.
Code 558(84) is the EVR solenoid electrical problem
So in short, when you get a KOEO code of 558(84), you will also get the KOER code 332(32). But if you DONOT get a code 558(84), but have a KOER code 332(32), then probably a vacuum line is bad or stuck EGR valve or EVR solenoid bad and not giving vaccuum to EGR valve to open
This is a copy from my thread of what I found while diagnosing my EGR issues...
Code 558(84) EGR vacuum regulator solenoid/circuit failure
332(32) EGR did not open/respond
code 331(31) indicates the EVP sensor is below close limit of .67 volts. Check for shorts in harness or sensor
code 332(32) indicates the EVP sensor did not change after the EVR solenoid was commanded to open the EGR valve. If code 558(84) is NOT present, this indicates a vacuum problem or stuck EGR valve(mechanical issue)
Code 334(34): EVP circuit above the closed limit of 0.67 volts. This can be caused by a faulty EGR valve, EVP sensor or the EGR Valve Regulator (EVR) could allow vacuum through to the EGR when it is not supposed to.
Code 558(84) is the EVR solenoid electrical problem
So in short, when you get a KOEO code of 558(84), you will also get the KOER code 332(32). But if you DONOT get a code 558(84), but have a KOER code 332(32), then probably a vacuum line is bad or stuck EGR valve or EVR solenoid bad and not giving vaccuum to EGR valve to open
This is great info, thanks, from what I see, I have a failing EGR or possibly vaccum leaking through. At least that's where I'll start looking.
Can I run a KOER test with just a paperclip? I don't have a scanner, I just want to make sure I don't short something out
