Do you need a custom/aftermarket bumper to support a plow?

It seems that the dual batteries and dual alternators is not part of the plow prep pkg, at least as far as I can tell.

If you see these listed in the specs can you assume it has the plow prep pkg?

I'm trying to find a comprehensive list of the packages/descriptions/contents for the 2023 SD.

 

The plow doesn't mount to the bumper, aftermarket bumper not necessary.

You can have dual batteries and dual alternators without the plow prep.

Search 2023 orde guide, that will show you all available options and pkgs.

 

No OEM bumpers work, my western push plates bolt into the front sway bar mounts. I have a diesel so I already had dual batteries but I only have the single 220 amp alternator.

 

You also can have get it with 1 battery and 1 larger alternator. Mine has a 250 amp alternator and one battery. I have the 7.3 gas engine.

 

That's interesting. I guess if I was ordering one I might explore that further.
So if people are not plowing, what is the second battery and alternator for?

ie: can the second battery just be disconnected, or what function is it serving...

I might use one for an advanced stereo install, but I have no plans for a winch or anything.
Suppose it could be used for an RV/trailer winch etc, but I presume its in the engine compartment and not in the back.

Sorry, getting off topic. So I'm presuming a front trailer hitch, since it attaches to the frame, would probably interfere with attaching a plow.
I understand the prep kg would not interfere, it being only springs.
Hard to find someone who'd actually tried this, it's a niche interest for sure.

 

IIRC all diesels get a second battery, needs the juice for the glowplugs and starter. Both batteries are in the engine bay flanking the engine, they are in series waring (ie. 12V system not 24V), on a gas application dual batteries allows for more electrical capacity to run high draw equipment such as a plow, winch, etc etc. A dual alternator system provides additional current when demand is high, such as in the rapid supplemental (12V) heater which requires dual alternators. When not required the ECM doesn't pull from the secondary alternator.

 

I did not do the plow package because I'll never plow (I have a tractor/loader for that). I do have dual batteries/alternators because I did select the 2kw rear power option. Stiffer springs will hurt the ride some and I wanted the best ride I could from an f250. Tire pressure (not shocks) is probably the biggest factor in a smooth ride as long as they don't heat up too much. It's easy to tell by watching the delta in cold pressure to hot highway pressure of the tires.

 

Many factors go into the alternator selection. Diesels get two batteries all the time. Been that way since at least my 2002, I'm sure at least 1999 Ford Super Duties. Alternator selection is based on packages selected. Plow Prep, Instant cab heat, or 2KW Rear Power option.

FYI, the only thing needed to install a plow on a factory truck is to cut the front air dam and install the plow hardware/electrical. I did a video on the install of a Western Plow on my 2024 F350 a couple weeks ago.

 

(2) 12v in series = 24v

(2) 12v in parallel = 12v

 

The dual battery setup is, as Ruf stated above, All about voltage drop. I do plow with a 2017 450 and a 22 350. Both gas. Neither with dual battery or larger alternator.
Both blink the dash lights and turn the radio off momentarily when using the hydraulics. No big deal really but there was some debate about it a few years ago.
Some guys were bothered by it. I personally dont care so I left it. Whomever ordered that truck was likely planning to plow and knew.
I didnt see if you noted the locking rear. That is an important option for me as the open rear is just that. No posi. Just open. It was a $390.00 option in 2019 when I ordered my personal 250. I definitely feel its important and well worth the money.
On my personal F-250, I ordered the plow prep for the leveling as well as 4.30 rears as I planned on 35" tires from the start. Which I now have. Ride quality has been fine for a 3/4 ton. Better than my 07 GMC 3/4 ton despite the solid axle.
I got a Lariat with 20s and the Michelins. It took 55,000 miles to wear them down to 15% or so. So I now have gone from 275/65/20 Michelins to 295/65/20 Toyo AT 3s. The slight increase in sidewall and tread noticeably improved ride quality over small bumps. Like wearing rubber soled shoes instead of leather. I would likely go with 18" wheels if ordering a new truck today. 20s are more expensive and there's less of a selection available. And they ride a little harsh with the tight sidewall. Im betting the one your looking at has 18s anyway.
I did not order FX4 because I have no use for hill descent. And you could order the skid plates... which I wouldn't be without... separately. I put Bilstein shocks on and a King steering stabilizer early on anyway.
I dont know if theres any post covid quality issues but I have 3 2017 and up Superdutys. My '19 250 the work '17 450, and the work '22 350.
They are great trucks. Ride great for what they are and have treated us great.
One thing... if you buy it. Crawl around underneath and find any electrical connections on the frame. Unplug them and coat with dielectric grease. I also rotated mine to ensure water can drain out.
There are some goofy unexplained electrical gremlins that come and go on these trucks. Ford does not see fit to grease the connections on the frame. Even right behind the rear wheels in direct spray.
1 dollar worth of dielectric grease will definitely avoid much of that. I read about the connections here back in 2019 and checked mine with 500 miles on the truck and the plugs were wet.
Great trucks.

One edit. I see your looking to put a hitch mount on the front. The plow prep itself doesnt effect that. However if you go to install a plow afterwards the receiver mount may interfere with the plow frame install.
Same with an aftermarket bumper which may interfere with a plow frame.
By the way. Ford puts the ride quality warning in there because some whiny complainers thought they were buying a luxury car because of the great interiors...

 

I drive both, without a plow, little to no difference in ride in my opinion.

 

So what exactly is the difference between the plow package and the front heavy duty suspension package? I always just get the HD suspension pack

 

dual alternators would be the only thing that I know of for the discriminator with the HD suspension package.

 

HD is 1 up on coil spring rate, plow prep is 2 up.

Depending on the build, they both could go 1 up on front spring rate, or even no increase as with the 450. Just depends on what the spring rate would be without those pkgs.

 

Target suspension sag should be in the range of 25%-33% for optimal performance. You need the wheels to extend downwards when the pavement drops away to maintain traction (particularly in turns) so you want at least 25% sag. When static sag is too great (>33%) you are using up excess suspension travel. Yes, we are fat americans, but our body weight(s) in the passenger compartment get distributed to both ends of the truck. Putting a large load way back on your receiver hitch tongue will squat the rear. Putting a large load in front of the front bumper (600-1100 lbs of a snowplow and mount) will cause excessive front squat. Spring rates on SD trucks with diesel engines are typically a step stiffer in the front end compared to gasser SD trucks same chassis config.

Going with a snowplowing option will result in a even stiffer front spring causing less sag in normal unladen (no plow) driving and you get Ford's warning about compromising ride quality. Sure adding a 70 lb battery and an extra alternator (50-100lbs?) to the engine compartment affects sag a bit, but since that weight is minor and set back behind the front wheel it has minimal effect. Thoughts?