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Original Gauges or aftermarket? Original gauges will use a King-Seeley Distometer type components and if using 12V, will need appropriate adapters. Aftermarket will use the more familiar ohms/resistance components and most are 12V ready.
Also, you don't have the typical oil filter setup. Has the oil filter port been drilled and grub screwed? Are you looking for a Full-Flow or bypass oil system?
I would like to if possible use my original gauge. I don’t know if it has been grubbed and I’m not sure if I should use a bypass, I just basically want to check my oil pressure and make sure all is well. I recently bought this motor and I don’t know everything about it. Any help is welcomed. Thank you
For the orignial gauge, you need an original sending unit. The Ford part number is 41A-9278. In the early production, these were mounted directly to the top of block on the drivers side just above the bell housing. This location puts it in a very precarious position for servicing. Special commercial tools such as the Snap On S8659C or 8659 and Kent-Moore J-28687 were made to remove and install these sending units. Later production had plumbed oil lines into the engine compartment near the fuel pump and oil filter canister for much easier servicing. Since you are starting with a fresh slate here, I obviously would recommend following the later production sending unit location.
Now, you still need an oil filter. The stock oil filter housing is mounted to the head with the head bolts on the drivers side. Did the original canister come with the engine, just not mounted?
The stock Ford filter canister setup is a bypass oil filter system and it does work really well; these type systems filter out smaller particles compared regular "full flow" filter, but do so by not having the complete output of the oil pump pass through the filter. However, there are those that modify their blocks with a grub screw or similar for other filter options such as discussed here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...iltration.html
As an example, there is this one that has everything - the mount, canister, hardware, lines, the T for the later production relocated oil pressure sending unit, and an oil pressure sending unit (no guarantee the sending unit is still functional). I'm not necessarily saying buy this exact one, just that it is a good representation of what you are looking to use the stock filter setup. But as I have cautioned, you need to inspect your block oil ports for modifications to ensure that your resultant setup lubricates properly.
Took some pics of what I have I don’t know what this top plug is for and I took a pic of the bottom fitting. Is this what I need to run the original style oil canister ?
The first picture of the square headed plug is an access to a coolant passage. They are utilized for temperature sender units and heater core hoses as applicable. Nothing to do with engine oil.
The second picture is of the oil return line port. Also in that picture, I have circled in purple the location of the "pressurized" oil ports:
The horizontal plug can be removed and inspected for a grub screw or similar modification as discussed above (and the threads linked above).
I can't tell from the picture, but if there is no grub screw or modification to the block, then it looks like you are set up for the stock type of oil flow system.
Inside every opening there is nothing there just a hole the bottom fitting (by the oil pan) has a fitting with a hole that you can see my finger on the other side about the size of a BB from a BB gun is the best way I can describe it
That fitting you described as having a BB sized hole is a flare fitting. You're doing an engine swap without encountering those before? That is very ambitious.
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