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It’s confirmed, I’m an idiot. Not mechanically inclined whatsoever, but I aimed to be. I bought a 96 f150 4.9l in-line 6 5spd.
It was running fine. Had a pushrod cover gasket leak and a oil pan cover leak. Shifting was a bit chunky but no other issues.
I took off the intake manifold, vacuum hoses, valve cover (changed gasket), spark plug wires, top cap of distributor, dip stick tube (which I twisted to hell and had to fabricate a new one), throttle body, egr tube, Pcv valve (bought a new one because I snapped it), Pcv tube, and removed all sensors leading down to pushrod gasket because it was leaking too. Changed out that gasket and unfortunately since putting it back on it still has a leak. I’m guessing the aluminum cover is bent.
..anyways, after about a total of 24 hours disassembling and reassembling, the truck ain’t turning on. It will turn over for a good 1-2 seconds then it shuts off. I can turn the ignition on, and then rev it up, but it won’t idle. It goes 0 to 5000rpms. There is no in between. And when I let off the gas, it’ll shut off again.
Here is a video of what happens when trying to turn it on.
It’s confirmed, I’m an idiot. Not mechanically inclined whatsoever, but I aimed to be. I bought a 96 f150 4.9l in-line 6 5spd.
It was running fine. Had a pushrod cover gasket leak and a oil pan cover leak. Shifting was a bit chunky but no other issues.
I took off the intake manifold, vacuum hoses, valve cover (changed gasket), spark plug wires, top cap of distributor, dip stick tube (which I twisted to hell and had to fabricate a new one), throttle body, egr tube, Pcv valve (bought a new one because I snapped it), Pcv tube, and removed all sensors leading down to pushrod gasket because it was leaking too. Changed out that gasket and unfortunately since putting it back on it still has a leak. I’m guessing the aluminum cover is bent.
..anyways, after about a total of 24 hours disassembling and reassembling, the truck ain’t turning on. It will turn over for a good 1-2 seconds then it shuts off. I can turn the ignition on, and then rev it up, but it won’t idle. It goes 0 to 5000rpms. There is no in between. And when I let off the gas, it’ll shut off again.
Here is a video of what happens when trying to turn it on.
It’s confirmed, I’m an idiot. Not mechanically inclined whatsoever, but I aimed to be. I bought a 96 f150 4.9l in-line 6 5spd.
It was running fine. Had a pushrod cover gasket leak and a oil pan cover leak. Shifting was a bit chunky but no other issues.
I took off the intake manifold, vacuum hoses, valve cover (changed gasket), spark plug wires, top cap of distributor, dip stick tube (which I twisted to hell and had to fabricate a new one), throttle body, egr tube, Pcv valve (bought a new one because I snapped it), Pcv tube, and removed all sensors leading down to pushrod gasket because it was leaking too. Changed out that gasket and unfortunately since putting it back on it still has a leak. I’m guessing the aluminum cover is bent.
..anyways, after about a total of 24 hours disassembling and reassembling, the truck ain’t turning on. It will turn over for a good 1-2 seconds then it shuts off. I can turn the ignition on, and then rev it up, but it won’t idle. It goes 0 to 5000rpms. There is no in between. And when I let off the gas, it’ll shut off again.
Here is a video of what happens when trying to turn it on.
i took photos before, so I can remember where to put all the lines. I feel everything is back in it’s correct place. I’m at a loss.
Thanks fellas
the pushrod gasket, stamped flimsy steel, is very flimsy and the only way to fix that is getting an aftermarket expensive machined cover or getting an old industrial 300's cover. the design is bad and was bad since the engine was new. its a joke. but even with it being leaky it can be fixed, just a SOB
whats the condition of your TPS, and can you tell me if youve removed your IAC. is your PCV tubing in good order, and how did you snap a plastic pcv valve , it should have pulled out of the grommet first. do you have new pcv grommets. do you have your vacuum tree sealed up and hoses on it, do you have your throttle unobstructed and the springs properly snap it back and any codes on your OBD2 reader?
lets talk about your dipstick tube, show me.
looking at your video, im concerned you might be wrong plug order
Here is the dipstick, created from 3/8 stainless steel tube, welded on the old hex nut. Same dimensions as the OEM dipstick. Still need to weld on the old mounting bracket
Last edited by Lizonsky; Feb 10, 2024 at 09:51 AM.
the pushrod gasket, stamped flimsy steel, is very flimsy and the only way to fix that is getting an aftermarket expensive machined cover or getting an old industrial 300's cover. the design is bad and was bad since the engine was new. its a joke. but even with it being leaky it can be fixed, just a SOB
whats the condition of your TPS, and can you tell me if youve removed your IAC. is your PCV tubing in good order, and how did you snap a plastic pcv valve , it should have pulled out of the grommet first. do you have new pcv grommets. do you have your vacuum tree sealed up and hoses on it, do you have your throttle unobstructed and the springs properly snap it back and any codes on your OBD2 reader?
Thanks for the reply, the TPS sensor plastic outside basically imploded as I was putting it back together. I feel like the connection is secure just the plastic crumbled.
after googling last night I took off the IAC to inspect it, it was a little dirty inside but was able to clean it a bit and reinstall.
I had to buy new PCV fixed tubing. See photos attached, they crumbled in my hands when taking off the intake manifold. The PCV lil neck snapped off and bought a replacement. Vacuum tree is back in place, no new grommets installed. They were in good condition. My OBD2 code reader comes back as “vin no acceptable”. I thought the 96’s were obd2 but my brand new meter won’t work with it.
Is your fuel pressure regulator (by your fuel injectors) hooked to vacuum? is that ALL oe tubing? how is it in such good condition> that vac tubing is known for creating a lot of leaks, especially where you cant see where a few join by the EGR behind the engine. what hose replaced your Original PCV hose? also your intake tube isnt fully seated on the right throttle body passage lip. That could affect your MAF, but not that much. Could you go ahead and unplug your TPS or your MAF sensor and try starting again if the result is the same, do the opposite
Those original wires and possibly OEM cap need to go, they can be bought new from motorcraft. be careful for counterfeit motorcraft parts, because I was burned by them. Notice i have yellow accel? my fake wires or just poor quality assured motorcraft wires were disintegrated INTERNALLY and jumping a gap in the wire to make it to the cap .
Is your fuel pressure regulator (by your fuel injectors) hooked to vacuum? is that ALL oe tubing? how is it in such good condition> that vac tubing is known for creating a lot of leaks, especially where you cant see where a few join by the EGR behind the engine. what hose replaced your Original PCV hose? also your intake tube isnt fully seated on the right throttle body passage lip. That could affect your MAF, but not that much. Could you go ahead and unplug your TPS or your MAF sensor and try starting again if the result is the same, do the opposite
yes the fuel pressure regulator is connected to the hose. I’ve only had the truck for a week, unsure about its history. I could take the intake manifold back off to inspect those lines underneath it. I replaced the old Pcv hose with an identical fixed hose. Took forever to find but it’s the exact same. I will try the TPS & MAF tomorrow and will keep you posted. I appreciate your input so much. This damn truck has got me down in the dumps and just wanna get it fixed.
yes the fuel pressure regulator is connected to the hose. I’ve only had the truck for a week, unsure about its history. I could take the intake manifold back off to inspect those lines underneath it. I replaced the old Pcv hose with an identical fixed hose. Took forever to find but it’s the exact same. I will try the TPS & MAF tomorrow and will keep you posted. I appreciate your input so much. This damn truck has got me down in the dumps and just wanna get it fixed.
No you dont need to remove the intake, they are against the firewall behind the motor, you can view them by going where your EGR vacuum tube goes into a harness or just behind the motor, there is a junction and a check valve i think possibly in one spot, they tend to break there. if they do break, they can be replaced and you can run the new tubing whereever you want. when I do it, it will be over lol! Your spark plug wires are in the right order and your routing of them isnt ideal but its better than average. Identical fixed hose? you got an OEM nos hose? Because its a pre-bent hose. I need to know part number or if you used off the shelf etc. Also the PCV You got may be the wrong one, 1996 f150s have 2 different pcvs for the 4.9
yes the fuel pressure regulator is connected to the hose. I’ve only had the truck for a week, unsure about its history. I could take the intake manifold back off to inspect those lines underneath it. I replaced the old Pcv hose with an identical fixed hose. Took forever to find but it’s the exact same. I will try the TPS & MAF tomorrow and will keep you posted. I appreciate your input so much. This damn truck has got me down in the dumps and just wanna get it fixed.
Also your code reader is the issue, a code reader doesnt need to read a vin to read the truck. is it an autel tablet? get a dumb one or do manual vehicle selection. it may ask fed/cali emissions, if so, hit cali. my autel reports the truck as cali even tho there wasnt a cali version it was the same across all states.
Also your code reader is the issue, a code reader doesnt need to read a vin to read the truck. is it an autel tablet? get a dumb one or do manual vehicle selection. it may ask fed/cali emissions, if so, hit cali. my autel reports the truck as cali even tho there wasnt a cali version it was the same across all states.
Here is my new PCV (Im still able to insert the old PCV into the grommet, and still didn’t make a difference unfortunately) and Pcv tube, as well as my model ODB2 scanner:
Here is my new PCV (Im still able to insert the old PCV into the grommet, and still didn’t make a difference unfortunately) and Pcv tube, as well as my model ODB2 scanner:
YOU FOUND A NEW MOLDED HOSE? Im glad i asked you to post it, i need one!~! I have a 3 part hose made from dumb off the shelf stuff lol. Had to step the size 2 times as well as create the right length.
Is your fuel pressure regulator (by your fuel injectors) hooked to vacuum? is that ALL oe tubing? how is it in such good condition> that vac tubing is known for creating a lot of leaks, especially where you cant see where a few join by the EGR behind the engine. what hose replaced your Original PCV hose? also your intake tube isnt fully seated on the right throttle body passage lip. That could affect your MAF, but not that much. Could you go ahead and unplug your TPS or your MAF sensor and try starting again if the result is the same, do the opposite
Hello, I unplugged the MAF and the TPS and tried starting it, no changes occurred. Not noticing anything wrong with vacuum lines anywhere
& I figured out how to bypass the VIN portion. OBD2 meter reads that there are zero codes