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Hello all, I am working on a 56 F100 for an 80 year old woman friend of mine and need some guidance. This truck had a second gen camaro front end swap done a long time ago. The truck's front suspension rides really nice, but the rear is super super stiff and bouncy because the shocks are worn out. The leaf spring pack has ten leafs on each spring and is extremely stiff. I was hoping there was a fairly straight forward way to remove a couple or three leafs without having to remove the entire spring from the truck. I was surprised to find very little on the internet about removing leafs from these trucks. Any tips or tricks? My goal is to get the truck more drivable for her and also replace the shocks. Currently the truck sits a lot higher in the back anyway so lowering it a little is not a concern. She won't be hauling anything. This is just a putt around town in style kind of deal. Any advice is appreciated. Thank you.
Remove the u bolts on one side let the rear end hang off the spring. Remove the spring pack center bolt and start removing Desired leafs. You will have to run a die on the center bolt to make new threads since the pack will be thinner.
then once you have one side back together you do the other side same way
Welcome to FTE
You might need a large C clamp to squeeze the pack together, making sure the center bolt hole stays aligned. Some take every other leaf out. I think the recommended is to leave the main and the next leaf alone then remove leaves as desired. Let us know what you end up doing.
Welcome to FTE
You might need a large C clamp to squeeze the pack together, making sure the center bolt hole stays aligned. Some take every other leaf out. I think the recommended is to leave the main and the next leaf alone then remove leaves as desired. Let us know what you end up doing.
This, and Big Wins procedure too. You may find that the center bolt is broken. They were on both of mine. So those C clamps really help hold this together as you go slow when you are loosening them up. Do the shackle pins take grease? Some of them might be clogged up with old, caked up grease, that would not allow them to be greased. Sometimes they are so bad you need to pull the shackles all apart and replace the spring eye bushings and pins. But if they don't grease you can try heating them up with a propane torch and then tapping on them while trying to grease them. Mine were so bad I bought a grease buster tool. It's like a large syringe that you pour a good penetrating oil in, and while it's connected to the zerk, you tap on the end of the plunger. It's a messy proceedure. Several of mine wouldn't take grease and ended up getting many of them open. It made the truck ride much, much better.
Thanks for all the quick replies! One more question. Every third leaf or so there is a U bracket that appears to be riveted to the leaf which is capturing the leaves above it and keeping them in line. Should I avoid removing those leaves so as not to disturb that arrangement? Thanks!
Originally Posted by hooler1
This, and Big Wins procedure too. You may find that the center bolt is broken. They were on both of mine. So those C clamps really help hold this together as you go slow when you are loosening them up. Do the shackle pins take grease? Some of them might be clogged up with old, caked up grease, that would not allow them to be greased. Sometimes they are so bad you need to pull the shackles all apart and replace the spring eye bushings and pins. But if they don't grease you can try heating them up with a propane torch and then tapping on them while trying to grease them. Mine were so bad I bought a grease buster tool. It's like a large syringe that you pour a good penetrating oil in, and while it's connected to the zerk, you tap on the end of the plunger. It's a messy proceedure. Several of mine wouldn't take grease and ended up getting many of them open. It made the truck ride much, much better.
I guess once I get into it I should be able to tell if the spring eye bushing is frozen up? It does have a grease fitting.
So I got the leaf springs out and discovered a few things. The spring eye bushings appear to be completely worn out. They aren't binding, but they have a lot of slop in them. I'm assuming they shouldn't be this way. Here is a link to a YouTube short clip I made showing the play.
The other thing I discovered is that the front of the rear shackle has been raised up by four inches which prevents access to the hole where you would normally be able to drive the shackle pin out. Does anyone think it's a good idea to leave the bushings alone with that much play in them? Thanks.
Replace them. They're not that expensive. You'll need to check the pins. With that much slop they may need replacing as well. If you have a slide hammer you can pull the pins without having to use the hole in the frame.
'Truck looks very clean in the picture and video.
I think you're right about the bushings, but I think I'll have to find a way to unbolt the entire shackle bracket. I think that would might be the easiest way here.
I think you're right about the bushings, but I think I'll have to find a way to unbolt the entire shackle bracket. I think that would might be the easiest way here.
I replaced all of my shackle pins and bushings 7 years ago on my '56 F100. Most came out with no issue, but a couple were so worn that they must have gotten caught on a worn ridge and that made them extremely difficult to hammer out.
It was very rewarding, it got rid of 90% of my rattle/clunks.
You indicated the rear was 'high'
the repositioning of the front spring mount was a former attempt to lower the rear stance.
Be sure to check the integrity of the weld, etc of what appears to be an angle iron to extend the frame rail vertically
by attaching it to the top frame rail
Mid Fifties had some instructions on their web site about ride height, methods, etc.
One I believe simply 'flipped' the front spring mount if i recall correctly
i think their web site is still active, the instructions were downloadable as pdf files
You indicated the rear was 'high'
the repositioning of the front spring mount was a former attempt to lower the rear stance.
Be sure to check the integrity of the weld, etc of what appears to be an angle iron to extend the frame rail vertically
by attaching it to the top frame rail
Mid Fifties had some instructions on their web site about ride height, methods, etc.
One I believe simply 'flipped' the front spring mount if i recall correctly
i think their web site is still active, the instructions were downloadable as pdf files
The rear isn't high per se, it's just higher than the front. It's got a decent rake to it and could stand to lose a little height in back which will happen with some of the leafs out. The front is a Camaro clip and rides low. The two top shackle bolts are going into square tubing which has been welded to the frame. Seems solid enough, but initially threw me off.
Starting to press out the bushings and discovered they are VERY worn, which is fine because I've got new ones coming, but one of the bushings is worn right through and into the steel. Does anyone think I can install the new bushing into this piece as is or should I be trying to source a replacement?
In a perfect world where you're gonna use that truck 7 days per week? Yeah I'd replace it.
In an imperfect world where the truck is a rarely used toy? Don't worry about it.
If you can find one for $5 locally, do it. But if you're paying for shipping and stuff. nahhh
In a perfect world where you're gonna use that truck 7 days per week? Yeah I'd replace it.
In an imperfect world where the truck is a rarely used toy? Don't worry about it.
If you can find one for $5 locally, do it. But if you're paying for shipping and stuff. nahhh
That's the exact type of answer I always hope to get. Reasonable. In this case the owner wants it done right and agreed to have that piece replaced. I was shocked to find that shackle easy to find new for $48, so I'll replace it. In the meantime my lift is tied up while I wait for these parts to traverse the country
I guess once I get into it I should be able to tell if the spring eye bushing is frozen up? It does have a grease fitting.
I am sorry, I didn't get back to you on this, and it looks like you past needing to know this in the repair process. But yes, if the zerk is not taking grease, and the grease is just piling up a big glob with every pump of the grease gun, you could unscrew the zerk and try cleaning all the old crusted, hard grease out with a pick or stiff piece of wire. But in my experience the zerk is usually fine but the spring pin is just clogged up with old grease. That is when you could try a grease buster tool. If that doesn't work then you need to take it all apart and like you are doing, then probably replace the pin and the bushing. But when you are done with these kind of repairs the truck will feel and drive so much better and quieter.
In your last post it's a good thing you are replacing the shackle. With it worn oval like that your new bushing will just eventually break again.
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