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Engine Build Part 2: The Assembling

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Old Mar 14, 2024 | 03:05 AM
  #31  
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Agreed surface looks great! Eyeball says fine but mic each bolt cut area at top middle bottom looking for consistency.

Good machinists are a godsend.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2024 | 02:46 PM
  #32  
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The studs are finished and should be here this coming week. With that issue taken care of for now a new one presents itself. Block has been sitting on the stand, covered up in the garage since we brought it back. I went out to grease it up again since some surface rust was starting to appear on the deck and in one of the cylinders. In the process of wiping grease in one cylinder I noticed this little spec that's proud of the surface:




It's very small. I'm not sure as to whether it was there when I took possession of the engine... I definitely didn't notice it until now. I'm struggling to think what could have caused it; looks like a little flake of the wall just decided it'd rather be somewhere else. It's in the middle of the cylinder so I don't see how something dropped (like a file) could push material proud of the surface like that. It did drop below freezing a few times but I've never heard of that causing this kind of issue. My machinist friend thought it could be a hard spot in the casting, but I'd think that would have chewed up the boring head and hone stones.

Engine machinist said the mark isn't deep or long enough to cause sealing issues, and to remove the material proud of the surface (kiss with a die grinder for example) so it doesn't interfere with the rings and blend hone pattern with emery. Wanted to get some additional input before I do anything.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2024 | 03:42 PM
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Word...keep a frigging die grinder out of that hole.....
 
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Old Mar 16, 2024 | 03:50 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Dan V
Word...keep a frigging die grinder out of that hole.....
Lol right? I was surprised he recommended that... Maybe not remembering that I don't have 40 years worth of fine touch like he does.

I was thinking rub it a little with a round file see how hard it is. Maybe wrap some sand paper around a short length of pipe and just slowly work it. Then mark up with sharpie near the end and go by hand until the high spot is knocked down, then blend with the hone pattern.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2024 | 04:02 PM
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Half round india stone.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2024 | 07:14 PM
  #36  
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Maybe the least intrusive method would be holding a large round ball against the nib and pressing it into the surface with your hand. With luck it will bend back into it's hole. It might chip off but I doubt it given the malleability of the material.

This recommendation brought to you by Guiness.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2024 | 08:35 PM
  #37  
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How far down the cylinder is that? Curious if the rings will be hitting that.

Stones are what set up the finish that's used. Probably a very careful application of a stone will clean that up.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2024 | 05:50 PM
  #38  
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I think i got it flattened... hard to tell with finger nail as it's hard to differentiate between an indent and a protruding feature at that small of scale. I suppose I'll have to insert a piston and see if it goes down without issue.

Originally Posted by JoshHefnerX
How far down the cylinder is that? Curious if the rings will be hitting that.

It's about 4.3-4.4" down from the deck.

Speaking of the deck:


The lapping process has been a huge success. Confident that I'll be able to run Cometic MLS gaskets without issues. Sure beats a massive machining bill for fire-rings.

Next step will be installing these and figuring out how to preload them accurately:




Some back and forth with the engineer at ARP... we thought installing them with loctite in block, snug them up with beplate installed, and let cure. After cure, set up dial indicator to measure stretch and tighten in stages until the desired stretch is hit.

 
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Old Mar 31, 2024 | 01:06 AM
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That sounds perfect as long as the diameter of the turned down area of the bolt is consistent. A thicker bolt will stretch less given the same torque.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2024 | 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by aawlberninf350
That sounds perfect as long as the diameter of the turned down area of the bolt is consistent. A thicker bolt will stretch less given the same torque.
Shank od should be within .455-.460". I'll calculate stretch for the lower side of the tolerance.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2024 | 01:09 PM
  #41  
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Even though it's tedious this is why you chase threads before assembly. Most of this came from the head bolt threads... definitely don't want all this crap between the male and female threads in those critical areas.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2024 | 01:42 PM
  #42  
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How did you collect it?
 
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Old Apr 16, 2024 | 01:47 PM
  #43  
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That's just what the tap collected in the channels (rinsed with mineral spirits after every use). There might be more in the female threads but will get those with a bore brush during final wash.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2024 | 10:23 PM
  #44  
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Yeah I was surprised how much crud was in all the threaded holes when I rebuilt mine. And I made sure to buy a long tap for the head bolts when I did the studs !
 
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Old Apr 17, 2024 | 05:32 PM
  #45  
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JB weld did a great job filling the gasket pitting. Surface is nice and smooth now.
 
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