I have an old portable 9K Warn that I keep mounted in back of my offroad rig. Also have mounts on both my trailers to winch up "whatever".
On my previous Dodge, I had "welding" cables run from one of the batt's to rear of truck. They were longer than truck, so could be
plugged in to connector on winch, on trailer. Like this.........



The Dodge had older style batt terminals, so mounting a lug up to them was pretty easy.
In looking at vids of SD factory winch wiring, looks like they go to studs on the batt terminals
on pass side (on pre-23's, anyway). Setup is different on 23's.

So on drivers side, there is a stud on negative terminal. Any reason you wouldn't just drill a hole in positive terminal, and
use a bolt for lug (emulating what like exists for negative terminal already)? It appears the flat spot on positive terminal,
is almost set up for it already.

 

If it were me, I'd run something like this (due to the size of cable required):

 

I would drill and stud the positive terminal with a M6 stainless carriage bolt, then use a #1 sta-kon ring terminal cabled to a batt disconnect under hood.

Definitely need a disconnect in series, I would not want that circuit energized at all times.

 

I agree in a perfect world. Was trying to keep it as stock as possible, or at least reversible.
Concerned that if lets say I have a charging issue down the road, dealer will say, well you "effed" with/replaced
battery terminals and that is your issue (true or not).

Good thing is, it's only used for pulling a dead vehicle on a trailer, and a ****** block is always used.
So not drawing "top" current like I would have back in the day, stuck in the goo on 44 boggers.

 

I did have a 300 amp fuse on it last time, but a disconnect in addition, is a good idea.

 

I have a cable running from the battery to the rear of the truck to an anderson plug for my winch. I did exactly what you've come up with. Drilled a hole in the positive clamp, I think I used a 3/8" SS bolt with a nut on the top side.

I have a large solenoid and fuse mounted right next to the driver's side battery with the positive cable running to it, then all the way to the back. I have an upfitter switch controlling this solenoid so the only part of cable that is hot all the time is the 8" section between the battery and the solenoid.

I've winched 1 ton trucks with locked up brakes up onto my trailer and the connections never even got warm, which was something I worried about when initially setting it up, as that's a pretty long run of wire on a super cab long bed truck. I think I have 2/0 cables, which might be insufficient if I were using the full capability of the 12k lb winch, but it's been fine so far.

 

I like that idea of the solenoid off upfitter switch. I still have 3 left, and not much to use them for, yet.

 

These blocks wouldn't require any drilling and zero modification to the existing cables or terminal ends.

They install on the existing battery terminals, but provide the ability to add a large AWG cable. Your existing battery cable attaches to the terminal provided on top of the block.

To reverse or remove your wiring (and taking it back to stock) is just simply removing the block (and your wiring) and attaching your existing battery cable to the battery. Can't get any easier to reverting back to stock than that.

 

If the projected usage is pre-planned (which would be required if you have to remove it from the offroad rig to use on a trailer), only occasional and relatively short timewise, might it not be easier just to run it off a standalone deep cycle battery?

 

Here is my crazy *** setup. OP, the easiest way is to just drill those out and run a bolt up through with a wing nut. Mine is not installed full-time so I just grab what I need. I have an Anderson that connects directly to the battery if needed. A set of jumper cables, a short set of cables that I can clamp to the posts for a quick connection. And lastly, a set I can clamp to the post and run it to the back of the truck. I had a permanent setup on my last truck but this works better for me as I can throw all this in the 150 if needed or use it on another vehicle.

 

Ok thanks. I didn't look at them that close. Will check them out.

 

The only thing that *might* be an issue, is the height of these. There could be a possibility of the battery terminals touching the hood when it's closed. That thought just dawned on me, so you'll want to make sure that they'll clear before using them. I know that the batteries sit high near the fenders, so you might want to measure the gap between the hood and the top of the battery, just to be sure...

 

Wow, a lot going on there!! I also have the setup with the "jumper" cables like you do, as an option to use on anyone's rig, if they have a 2" receiver.

 

Once you start building cables, it’s easy to get carried away My front hitch is 2” while the rear is 3” so I have a two reducers (3 to 2 and 2.5 to 2) for the winch at the rear. The 150 has a 2” at the rear. I took my Zena welder off of my 02 truck so now I need to figure out a portable option for that.

 

I was going to do a run of 2/0 cable in my truck...(I actually ran the positive cable one day, but never finished the ground & Anderson plug).

But ya know what, for the infrequent use, I find it much easier just to throw my spare battery and a couple vise grips in the bed. Set battery by winch, clamp the cables on with vise grips, run the winch. Works great. Battery lives in the garage and sits on the battery tender once a month.