Coming from a older generation my version of a tune up is plugs, wires, cap and button. This newer version with my 2016 calls for mainly replacing the plugs. Just looking at plugs alone cost is around $90 bucks which is way above the cost I am use to for plugs. Coils need to be inspected for any damage or cracking to determine if they are good or need to be replaced. I am also curious if I should stick with Ford plugs or brands like NKG would be compatible or better? I know some truck brands can be picky about what brand of parts you use. Some simply don't like certain brands. Doing the change is not the problem knowing gaping the plugs correctly is important and using both anti seize and electronic grease to keep moisture out is common practice. Would like to hear some of your views. Thanks

 

You SHOULD NOT have to mess with the gap on OEM Motorcraft spark plugs. Matter of fact, you can damage the spark plug if you try! Otherwise changing the plugs is a simple process. Make sure you use compressed air to blow out any dust/debris from around the spark plug before removing it.

 

The plugs ain’t cheap, but then again you don’t change them every 10k miles either.

Motorcraft or Autolite plugs only. Going with so called performance plugs will only cause issues. Since don’t have a distributor and carb to fine tune, no sense in toying with gaps and heat ranges. Just set the plugs at the recommended gap.

If you aren’t having misfires, then don’t worry about replacing coils. If you should need to, Motorcraft only. The so called performance coils don’t work well on modern Ford engines. When you replace the plugs, use a torque wrench, the head is aluminum and you don’t want to strip the threads. For the same reason, turn the plugs in by hand as far as you can. If you need a wrench in the first 2 or three twists, then you are likely cross threaded. Back it out and try again.

Replace all of the coil boots with new ones. It’s cheap and easy to do while you’re there. Use a dab of dielectric grease on each boot and a tiny dab on each of the coil harness connectors.

 

This right here, plugs and boots. The boots on the coils do the exact same thing as the boots on the old fashion plug wire sets. The boots dry out and crack, even if they feel pliable enough, change them anyway. I made this mistake many years ago on my old 2004 Expedition. I changed plugs but didn't change the boots. 20K miles or so later, I started having random misfires. I said to hell with it and changed all eight coils and solved the problem but I know that it was because I didn't change the boots. Lesson learned.

 

Awesome. Thanks Guys. I will do what you said and also do the boots as well. Glad to about the boots. I wasn't even thinking of them. I may have to make a run by the Ford dealer since nothing can be located at the local parts stores around here. Looks like maybe by this coming weekend I may have what I need to do this.

 

Yikes, do you have access to Amazon or Rock Auto? The stealer will be expensive.

 

I did go to Rock Auto and they do carry both with shipping is $124. That's all being Motorcraft parts. Will get them ordered this week. Just weird that most auto parts stores don't carry much anymore on hand.

 

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You asked about this about a month ago!.
In that thread you had a 2.7 eco boost.
Unless a coil has been proven to be the cause of misfire, they are quite trouble free.
You may or may not replace the boots, your call, unless they show evidence of hardening, cracking, pin holes or other damage.. Otherwise you can't tell anything about the coil operation.
The grease is put just inside the boot tip just enough to lube and slide.. The grease does not do much for sealing. After about a thousand miles the grease goes firm from heat. The most important use of the grease is to help the boot tip find and slide down on the plug terminal because you can only feel what it does at time of carefully installing the coil in place.
The Grease is called Di-electric but is in not a dielectric at the high voltage the coil operates at.
The new plugs should be plated with Nickel and not need any further lube. It is possible that lubing can cause you to over tighten the plug from the reduced torque effort needed.
On plugs, if you have a 2.7, stay with the plug # or cross reference, that come out, for replacement. There is no HP in plugs, only the wrong ones
There are usually 3 levels of plugs listed. the only difference is their construction that affects their service life.
The higher costs usually reflect longer life from the metals used at the tip resisting spark erosion better over time that opens up the Gap more..
Otherwise there is no other benefit.
Don't make more of this than it is. Just use common sense.
Good luck.

 

Sir, thanks for posting, very helpful for sure. However, common sense is a learned trait. People reach out for assistance because they lack the knowledge, the skills or the confidence to perform a task and they just need to be guided.

 

You are correct. It's the 2.7 eco boost. Since the boots can't seem to be found here, I am just going to order and replace them to be safe. Like one of the members said. replacing them doesn't cost that much anyway. Thanks again.

 

I agree. Thanks

 

I'm looking through rock auto and seeing the boots for the spark plugs and see that some just show the booth and others come with the spring. Being this is the first time doing the tune up on this newer engine 2.7 turbo. I am scratching my head here. I am trying to stay with Motorcarft parts for this. Standard Motor Parts #SPP209E comes with boot and spring $4.18. Motorcraft WR6152 just shows the long gray boot $11.00. My thought is maybe the second Motorcraft has the spring already inside the boot (Molded). Cost wise first boot is cheaper but then again I don't want to sacrifice quality either but don't want to over spend just for name. I don't feel any misfire but even though it claims I am getting 18 miles to the gallon, my gauge tells me different. I drive 16 miles a day and I have burned tank in this week alone.

 

I don't know if this is relevant. Maybe.
2018 F 150 XL 3.3L V6 102313 miles. No problems. Book that came with truck says to change spark plugs at 100k miles. Asked dealer to change spark plugs. Work done Jan. 22, 2024.
Receipt says, removed and replaced spark plugs and intake manifold plenum gasket.
I don't know what this gasket is or why it was replaced.
Plugs $52.68
Gasket $24.83
Labor $202.50

 

Plenum gasket . That's something I had to do to my Dodge a couple of years back but that was due to a leaking gasket that was known with them. I don't remember much talk in Ford forums about replacing the gasket.

I am trying to learn these newer trucks and how to do things correct as possible. This no distributor deal is odd for me. Just find it odd some boots don't show a spring included to others do. I was more surprised they don't keep the boots on the shelf for these years. Never hurts to ask . Thanks

 

Some engines require that the upper part of the intake manifold be removed to access some of the plugs. Sounds like the 3.3 may ne one of those.