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2000 F250, 7.3 PSD, 4x4, 360k.. the clutches in the limited slip differential are smoked and need replaced. I about choked when I looked up the clutch kits and seeing they are now $450 or more. That’s nonsense. Unless you all have somewhere I can purchase the kit at a reasonable price?
If I’m paying $500 or more for clutches, why not go to an Eaton Truetrac or No-Spin. Two questions I have for the Eaton’s: 1) does the No-Spin just install inside the case of the clutched differential? 2) do any of you have any experience with either of the two and your opinions?
If you mostly street the truck and/or need predictable handling in snowpack or icy conditions, I'd go TrueTrac
Either is going to replace your carrier and will thus need a proper gear setup for backlash and pattern. Plus at 360k I'd want new pinion bearings, anyway.
I had a truetrac in a few of my Jeeps, They work well and can handle severe abuse. You can/may expect a chatter or lockup effect when turning from a red light under acceleration or during hard angle turning, but nothing major. Just expect it that way you don't think it is messed up or the rear end is about to fall apart.
Is the wiring a basic power and ground to activate the factory e-lockers?
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Yea. Power from a switch of your choice to one wire then ground in the other. Hardest part is getting the wires out of the axle. No boss for the connector like on newer rear end. Had to drill a hole and rtv it up and grind a little notch in diff cover for the to come out. Then have to swap over tone ring from your carriers. But thats simple.
You have to ask yourself what you want exactly. Do you always want it locked up, get a locker. I don't know what the no spin is. if you want equal traction unless one tire is on ice, get the truetrac. if you were happy with the factory LSD, get a truetrac. I remember when these units were over half of todays costs.
Me personally, I don't like clutch paks and i would go to a truetrac but there's more cost involved unless you can do the work yourself
You can do the factory e-locker as mentioned, that should be the eaton e-locker as I think they make the only e-locker but could be easily mistaken...BUT you have to understand how they operate, it's not just a flip of a switch exactly
If you do any off-roading which most don't...I would do detroit or e-locker. an open diff has the best behavior on ice/ snow but doesn't necessarily do the best overall. It helps keep you straighter and will hunt for traction instead of just spinning both tires till you are stuck. there are advantages/ disadvantages to every setup
You can do the factory e-locker as mentioned, that should be the eaton e-locker as I think they make the only e-locker but could be easily mistaken...BUT you have to understand how they operate, it's not just a flip of a switch exactly
Explain? All I have to do on mine is flip a switch? Lol I've had about every kind of lockers in different vehicles over year years. Detroits. Arbs. I'm a fan of the selectable lockers on a street driven vehicle or for front axles for sure.
I put a Detroit locker in mine, works great, one of the best mods I have done to my truck. The Detroit lockers are stronger and more reliable than the selectable lockers, not to mention they are actually useful on the street unlike a selectable locker. BTW No Spin is another name for a Detroit Locker, the Yukon Grizzly locker is good as well.
I had a Detroit Locker in my old hot-rod pickup with a built 460 on Nitrous, and loved it.
I don’t mind limited slip, as long as they work. Just don’t wanna rely on locking in 4x4 in a little mud, snow, or on a boat ramp due to the single tire spin. If it wasn’t for the overall cost of the differential, new bearings, etc. I wouldn’t hesitate to drop a Detroit Locker or a True Trac in it.
I’ve found several units that appear to replace the clutches in the Sterling 10.5, thereby making it something in between a clutched limited slip and a locker, but I don’t know anything about them.
Eaton has a picture of the “No-Spin Locking Differential” on their website. It appears to be a module that fits inside the Sterling LS differential and replaces the clutches.. but I’m not sure if that’s what it really is.
I also found a module that replaces the clutches, Torque-Masters Industries “Torq-Locker TL10535”. Again, know nothing about it.
Only drop in lockers that will work on a Ford 10.5 are ones that fit in a 2 pinion open carrier. You can't replace the clutches with a locker, that requires complete carrier replacement.
Sounds like the no slip is what is referred to as a "lunchbox locker" they generally have to be installed in open carriers and will not work in ls carriers.
Explain? All I have to do on mine is flip a switch? Lol I've had about every kind of lockers in different vehicles over year years. Detroits. Arbs. I'm a fan of the selectable lockers on a street driven vehicle or for front axles for sure.
I have no actual experience with them but have seen a bunch of videos because i thought about getting one for my Dana 80.
I don't remember all the details. They do not actually lock when the switch it pressed. it uses a ramp design to actually engage them and the tires must rotate a certain amount before they actually engage. Maybe on a street driven truck it's not much of an issue but off-road it definitely can be. The larger your tires, the longer it takes for them to engage as well.
they are not like an ARB, Yukons version, Auburn or ox's electronic version. I also don't think they can be engaged at any speed...my memory is a little rusty and think ARB is the only one that can be engaged whenever. Like I said, there is good and bad to all of them.
sorry, that's all I have atm, not much to go on but I'm sure if I go back and watch videos of actual use, I can come up with more concerns
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