Catalytic convertor woes
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 26
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From: Colorado
Catalytic convertor woes
Good morning everyone
Here's the scoop. About 6-7 months ago the check engine light on my 2011 F150 3.5L Ecoboost started turning on for some time then stay off for some time. It was a random occurrence. I finally got a reading from an auto store and it came out as P0430. The fella told me to use CataClean as a starting point to see if that would fix problem. That worked for awhile but eventually the check engine light came back with the random occurrence again. Just before Christmas I replaced the bank 2 sensor 2 oxygen sensor on the CAT. Check engine light stayed off for about 30 minutes of test driving. The next day when I started up the truck the check engine light turned on and has stayed on since. Now, all evidence points towards a bad catalytic convertor on bank 2 but I was hoping someone has other ideas I can hear to test the CAT before I jump into a replacement. Thanks for the help.
Here's the scoop. About 6-7 months ago the check engine light on my 2011 F150 3.5L Ecoboost started turning on for some time then stay off for some time. It was a random occurrence. I finally got a reading from an auto store and it came out as P0430. The fella told me to use CataClean as a starting point to see if that would fix problem. That worked for awhile but eventually the check engine light came back with the random occurrence again. Just before Christmas I replaced the bank 2 sensor 2 oxygen sensor on the CAT. Check engine light stayed off for about 30 minutes of test driving. The next day when I started up the truck the check engine light turned on and has stayed on since. Now, all evidence points towards a bad catalytic convertor on bank 2 but I was hoping someone has other ideas I can hear to test the CAT before I jump into a replacement. Thanks for the help.
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Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Sioux Falls Area
Check for a temperature rise across the converter.
when working properly, the rear of the converter should be slightly hotter than the front. If there is no temperature rise, or the front is hotter, then it is bad.
This test is done with a non contact IR gun on a fully warmed vehicle.
when working properly, the rear of the converter should be slightly hotter than the front. If there is no temperature rise, or the front is hotter, then it is bad.
This test is done with a non contact IR gun on a fully warmed vehicle.
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alcooner
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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Jul 6, 2005 10:49 AM
