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I have a truck that I’m starting a full restoration on and I want everything perfect. I don’t want any Chinese parts. Will these scratches be fixable for a competent shop? I’d like to have it redone. It is part of the truck’s history along with a few small dents but I’m going to remove any trace of that. Thanks
IMO That's pretty deep and that's just not going to buff out. If you are not going to keep the dents/scratches (to save the visual history), then get a high dollar repop and hang the memory one on the shop/mancave wall. Build it up to be a complete grill shell with working headlights/park lights, grill insert and headlight bezels ect...
That is anodized aluminum. The anodization can be removed and the metal polished. I dont think you will get that big gouge out though. Then, if you want the corrosion protection the anodization provides, it would need to be reanodized. It can be done at home with electricity and battery acid.
I also noticed the new one is steel not anodized aluminum. Will it be as durable as original and fit well? I’ll have a body shop install it but I don’t want them made at me for buying a part that fits somewhat poorly. I saw a NOS one for sale on FB but I would want to pick it up in person and it’s all the way on the east coast so that’s not an option and I doubt I’ll find one in Iowa. If anyone has a NOS one I’d prefer that but my second option will be Dennis carpenter I guess. Thanks
I thought about going with a new shell, but then I'd want to do the bumper, the bumper guards, the pads, the inserts, and on and on. None of my stuff was bent, but it is aged. Finally, I just taped off my paint and went to work with buffing supplies, and a couple grits of "wet or dry". I like the way it turned out.
If you start with 400, then say 600 to take the sharp edges down (by hand), then buff (I used a buffer in a drill), it'll be fine. "Smooth & brighten" is the goal, not the removal of the anodizing. It'll look like a well preserved 45 year old truck that's seen use.
Steel is gonna be chromed, aluminum is gonna be a slightly different look, more like stoc andI wonder if they make them new aluminum shells with the same alloy recipe too? There are softer - easier to damage alloys ... and then there are harder - tougher alloys. I also wonder about finish, are they anodized like OEM, or just machine buffed bare aluminum?
The chromed steel ones would be tougher I think, but then I wonder if rust is ever gonna show up?
Just some questions that popped into my head when I was deciding. Either way, I'd be fretting over it constantly ... so I have no desire for perfect ... but here's someeye candy.
Last edited by tbear853; Jan 7, 2024 at 09:57 AM.
Reason: random thoughts
Would you travel to southern Missouri for good one? I sold my last 9 outa 10 condition 1979 grill shell to a FTE member from Ks a while ago. But I come across them every so often and or complete parts trucks with a real nice one. I do not think I have one in any better condition that you have now, if the worst of yours is in your pic.
Potentially, I farm so probably during the winter or during the summer between hay crops. I’d probably try and make it more worth the trip by seeing if there was anything else I needed. Can never have too many spares of things. I’m hoping to get a blue 79 f250 2wd with the 300 and 4 speed after I’m done with this project
It would cost a lot more to restore one than to buy new. the DC shells are aluminum and made in the US. they say they're made on original tooling. some of the vendors sell DC as well, you can tell by the price.
When DC will have them back in stock is the question, you can call them and sometimes they can give you an idea.
I checked with DC and they will only be offering the steel chromed version according to the fellow I talked to. I will have to see one in person at a show this summer before I pull the trigger
They only have them in steel? they're not making the aluminum anymore or they just don't have any now ?
The steel ones don't look right, but they don't look bad. the ones I've seen look pretty decent really. biggest gripe I've seen for guys here is they rust if that's a concern.
If .DC really is done making aluminum ones then restoration might make sense. I would expect if you did as much work as possible yourself and had a pro finish it and anodize it you'd be looking at $1500 -up from my experience.
They said they discontinued the aluminum model so that was alittle disappointing. I see there’s a few others that make aluminum versions but I’m not sure if they’re any good or American made.
I had an imported one a few years back that was absolute junk. I'd take the chrome one over that. hopefully there's a decent imported aluminum one but I doubt it.
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