My fuel drain is leaking again after I replaced it probably 10 years ago. I also have the FRX FPR and lines. Nothing else is leaking, or has ever leaked. Trying to decide if I should just rebuild the drain valve or yank the bowl and rebuild the whole thing.

 

Given no other issues I'd just do the valve again.

If your valve is OEM I'd put in the fancy blue fluoro-whatever o rings. If you replaced the whole valve last time I'd do that again.

 

If bowl has never been resealed it wouldn't be a bad idea to pull it and reseal everything with the diesel o ring kit. It's 20+ years old now.

 

Did a drain valve reseal last year. Nothing else was leaking so left well enough alone. The fuel pressure sender was a bit in the way but I was able to work around it without having to disturb anything else on the bowl.

 

Well I've decided to go a bit further. I finished a job today that I needed the truck for and now she can be laid up for a while so I decided to remove and re-seal the fuel bowl and also to replace my passenger side fuel line. I've had a new one behind the back seat for 5 or 6 years as a spare and figured it's time I installed it in the garage instead of on the road somewhere. My original one is not leaking and I did put some additional padding on the clamp around 2012 when I replaced the turbo but I am at 185K so if I replace it now I'll never have to worry about it again. I'll swap on some new Parker sleeves in case the ones on my new spare have dried out over the years. Here is the big question, if I am removing the fuel bowl will I have enough room to thread the new fuel line under the intake and around to the back of the head, or will I still need to remove the intake?

 

Never did it but my understanding is nothing needs to be removed to snake in the passenger side fuel line.

I've had a spare behind my back seat for a few years too.

Whatcha gonna do about the fuel line clamp under the turbo?

 

Probably just add more padding to it, or are you saying I won't be able to access it with the intake and CAC in place?

 

Just the padding part. Pretty sure access to the nut for it is easy.

 

I just did a four line fuel rail feed recently and I was able to remove that line and clamp with no damage to the line. It’s tight, but possible.

 

Well I got everything buttoned up today and no leaks. I am glad I decided to do the fuel bowl reseal, my Parker seals were seeping and I didn't know it, plus it gave me a chance to clean some 20 years of crud from the bottom of the bowl, not to mention getting the valley cleaned. I am also glad I did the passenger side fuel line, but I will tell you there are no shortcuts on that one. Yes you can thread the line thru but there is no way to get a wrench on the fitting on the back of the head without removing the intake, you have to reach thru there to get leverage on your wrench. From any other direction it's pretty much impossible plus the down pipe is right in the way. I even thought I could get to it from underneath by removing the wheel liner but no dice so don't waste your time trying that. With the intake out of the way though it is an easy job. Definitely one you don't want to do on the side of the road though.

On the new line I used some fuel injection line, then I straightened the clamp and re-shaped it with an M-10 bolt which made it just the right size to firmly grip the fuel injection line. I attached some pics of my old line, while it didn't look like it was going to give out anytime soon, you can see where it got hammered on for the first 140,000 miles before I wrapped tape around it when I did my down pipes. I rotated it and took 3 pics, you can see the damage right where the clamp was and easy to see why they eventually fail. (pay no mind to the dimple, that's where a curve starts and is normal).