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when I clicked on the send message it said I had to do a 3 step verification process. It asked for a credit card to prove I was 18. Was a scam my cc company contacted me and said it was a dating service. Had to cancel my card and have another sent🤬
Sorry about the issues. That’s crazy.
This doesn’t make any sense. I use the PM feature regularly.
You don’t have enough days as a registered member to allow a PM so I’m not sure how you got the button.
Are you sure you were on the members profile page and not some ad?
@Y2KW57 have you ever heard of anyone having issues like this?
I'm pretty sure he has another thread around here asking for advice, unless i saw it on a different forum.
I'd suggest reading a ton of threads on what others have done, look at the Matrix thread (on turbos/ injectors) and give eswift (Eric) a call.
As Wes said, it's not a cheap journey going with 238/80's. there could also be potential issues when going bigger injectors as well, especially in higher altitudes. There will be a lot of lag and if you drive around 1500rpm often, you will hate the setup and have to learn to drive around the turbo.
I run 250/100's and it sounded like a great setup at the time and it is a lot of fun, but there is a lot to be learned about wanting power and practical daily use. There are people that claim to have no issues and many that have the same struggles as myself.
I also don't remember what year truck you have and what tranny. If you have PM rods, you will be limited in your abilities as well
Thanks for the advice. The kid in me is coming out again and I know I shouldn’t go that big. But sometimes you start down the rabbit hole and don’t know when to stop. Truck is a 01 with a BTS trans. Not sure how you check but I think it pm rods.
IIRC 2001 is the crossover year from forged to PMRs. Serial number will not help, need to inspect the rod bolts thru a port in the block. There are threads on this, made a quick look but did not find one.
As long as your HP goal is 400 or less does not matter, PMRs are fine. More HP than that is big dinero.
160/30’s and stock turbo with KC 300x balanced assembly and bellowed up-pipes with good tuning makes for a FUN truck to drive with plenty of power for anything you need it to do. I’ve put this size injectors in many trucks and everyone loves them every time.
Stock fuel system is 100% fine, despite what the vendors and koolaid drinkers will say. Remove the clamps off the fuel lines to heads before they rub a hole in the lines and do the in-tank and pre-pump mods. I highly recommend a fuel pressure gauge and you’ll want EGT gauge for anything above stock power.
Some of us are using Android head units (I’ve installed a few ATOTO brand units now) and like FORScan Lite app to monitor the other engine parameters like boost, ICP, IPR DC and dozens more if you wanted. This tool does basically everything the dealer or ‘pro’ ($10k) scan tool does and can be used on any old android device for about $40.
160/30’s and stock turbo with KC 300x balanced assembly and bellowed up-pipes with good tuning makes for a FUN truck to drive with plenty of power for anything you need it to do. I’ve put this size injectors in many trucks and everyone loves them every time.
Stock fuel system is 100% fine, despite what the vendors and koolaid drinkers will say. Remove the clamps off the fuel lines to heads before they rub a hole in the lines and do the in-tank and pre-pump mods. I highly recommend a fuel pressure gauge and you’ll want EGT gauge for anything above stock power.
Some of us are using Android head units (I’ve installed a few ATOTO brand units now) and like FORScan Lite app to monitor the other engine parameters like boost, ICP, IPR DC and dozens more if you wanted. This tool does basically everything the dealer or ‘pro’ ($10k) scan tool does and can be used on any old android device for about $40.
when you say stock turbo mine has been upgraded to 1.0 housing with a wicked wheel. Somebody else posted I should get the new wicked wheel or a KC billet wheel balanced assembly? Was thinking going with the.87 housing for quicker spool up and torque. Talked to Brian at BTS today and he said stay with the 1.0 ?
thanks for the reply. Just a daily driver. Has 357,000 on it and want to upgrade. Will be replacing the injectors 160/30 160/0 or 238/80 hybrids. I could detune it for the hybrids and would have the ability to get stupid with it if I chose to. Planning on getting a KC300x with .84 housing. All new to this so not sure what the best option is?
Since you sound like you have the wherewithall to drop your tank, and for your consideration, you don't need an AirDog if there's no air in the fuel. Laws of nature spell out that it's much easier to push a fluid to it's destination rather then try and create a vacuum that lets any air into the fuel stream along any connections between the fuel tank and the fuel pump mounted on the rail. This is a Bosch 69430 fuel pump with the outlet check valve removed, then welded to the pickup tube. Did that modification nearly 15 years ago now and I haven't had to give it any attention since then.
Since you sound like you have the wherewithall to drop your tank, and for your consideration, you don't need an AirDog if there's no air in the fuel. Laws of nature spell out that it's much easier to push a fluid to it's destination rather then try and create a vacuum that lets any air into the fuel stream along any connections between the fuel tank and the fuel pump mounted on the rail. This is a Bosch 69430 fuel pump with the outlet check valve removed, then welded to the pickup tube. Did that modification nearly 15 years ago now and I haven't had to give it any attention since then.
so this is a pump that goes in the tank? Why remove outlet check valve? Where’s it welded I don’t see that in the picture?
so this is a pump that goes in the tank? Why remove outlet check valve? Where’s it welded I don’t see that in the picture?
You don't need a check valve on this particular system. All I can add to what the picrures show you is you need to secure the wiring better than what is shown. I had to drop the tank back down a short while later because the sloshing fuel fatigued the connection at the fuel pump. My solution was to make a plastic tube out of a piece of plastic jug and clamp it down underneath the clamp that goes around the body of the pump in the pictures. It worked like a breakwater and kept the sloshing against the wiring to a minimum. Haven't had to do anything more since then.
I used the existing fuel pickup strainder that was on the factory fuel pickup tube on the inlet of the fuel pump. Perfect fit and all that I needed to so was clamp it in place.
when you say stock turbo mine has been upgraded to 1.0 housing with a wicked wheel. Somebody else posted I should get the new wicked wheel or a KC billet wheel balanced assembly? Was thinking going with the.87 housing for quicker spool up and torque. Talked to Brian at BTS today and he said stay with the 1.0 ?
Yes, Brian has liked the 1.0 ex housing a long time. I used these and the more common 1.15 AR housings for years. The biggest reason for this was to help keep EBP in check when beating on the turbo with big injectors. There are better options now.
The .84 housing and KC 300x turbine wheel with their 6x6 compressor wheel with extended tips spools like stock but manages EBP much better. You can absolutely run the 1.0 housing you’ve got with the 300x wheels and see if you desire something different. With automatic transmission, you probably won’t notice a slightly lower RPM spool.
While I greatly respect the effort to put the fuel pump in the tank, I just can’t support the concept of making the system more difficult to service with no benefit. The stock configuration with the in-tank and pre-pump mods I shared above has a loooooong service life with exactly the same performance and eliminates the need to ever go inside the tank again. Yes, pumps like to push better than pull. That’s why we mitigate any restriction on the suction side of the pump by using an easily serviceable and properly sized ‘strainer’ pre-pump.
Yes, Brian has liked the 1.0 ex housing a long time. I used these and the more common 1.15 AR housings for years. The biggest reason for this was to help keep EBP in check when beating on the turbo with big injectors. There are better options now.
The .84 housing and KC 300x turbine wheel with their 6x6 compressor wheel with extended tips spools like stock but manages EBP much better. You can absolutely run the 1.0 housing you’ve got with the 300x wheels and see if you desire something different. With automatic transmission, you probably won’t notice a slightly lower RPM spool.
While I greatly respect the effort to put the fuel pump in the tank, I just can’t support the concept of making the system more difficult to service with no benefit. The stock configuration with the in-tank and pre-pump mods I shared above has a loooooong service life with exactly the same performance and eliminates the need to ever go inside the tank again. Yes, pumps like to push better than pull. That’s why we mitigate any restriction on the suction side of the pump by using an easily serviceable and properly sized ‘strainer’ pre-pump.
I am confused you say the stock configuration with the in tank pump and pre pump mods works great. But then you say it eliminates the need to go inside the tank? What am I missing? Was looking at doing the hutch tank mod you had an article about. With the Racor ps120 filter. My question on that is it says it has a 200-250 micron filter. Brian said don’t use a filter of more than 30 microns before the pump. To hard for the pump to draw? Just trying to get it done right the first time.
I put my fuel pump in the tank in 2006, 17 years ago now at the time of this writing. I still haven't had to replace the pump that I installed on that job. Many and I mean the vast majority of gas engine vehicle manufacturers have designed their fuel supply systems with the electric fuel pump mounted at the bottom of the fuel tank.
It's a very small percentage of road side failures that are caused by a failed electric fuel pump that required a tow to the shop. Again, I did mine 17 years ago now and it's still going strong.
The thread is so old that all the pictures are gone due to changes in the way that they were hosted back then, but if you want to read it here it is when I went through all that in 2006. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...-the-tank.html
I am confused you say the stock configuration with the in tank pump and pre pump mods works great. But then you say it eliminates the need to go inside the tank? What am I missing? Was looking at doing the hutch tank mod you had an article about. With the Racor ps120 filter. My question on that is it says it has a 200-250 micron filter. Brian said don’t use a filter of more than 30 microns before the pump. To hard for the pump to draw? Just trying to get it done right the first time.
SSJ is saying he does not do the in tank pump. He prefers the method outlined in his how to thread I believe he linked above. His method involves removing the in tank filters and mixing chamber to place the pre-filter on the frame rail.
Brian is most likely saying not to filter too finely before the pump. A fine filter will cause restriction to the pump inlet and is hard on pumps. The fine filtering is done in the fuel bowl post-pump. You just need a pre-filter good enough to prevent big stuff from getting into the pump.
The micron rating means filtration size. A 30 micron filter will stop smaller particles than a 250 micron filter. You want the larger number as a pre-filter. So this matches what Brian told you. “More” than a 30 meaning smaller number as no hood.
Kwik and another FTE member really like their mod of moving the pump into the tank. There’s nothing wrong with doing that. It will provide the least air getting into the fuel.
However, I’m in the SSJ camp. The stock fuel bowl is designed to remove air within the bowl and send back through the return line to the tank. Doing the SSJ Hutch mod combined with the stock fuel bowl should be sufficient for preventing air at the injectors.
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