Front Tank Removal
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 664
Likes: 129
From: Columbia, MD
Skid plate and tank are mounted separately. My recollection is that the tank bolts are a PITA without removing skid plate, and even if you can remove the tank bolts, tank won't move much with skid plate still in place.
I've used 2 camlock straps to retain, lower, and raise skid plate by myself. Same for tank, after skid plate is on ground and out of way.
My thought would be drop the skid plate entirely, get it out of the way. Then see if you can suspend tank off camstraps, loosen tank mounts, and swing tank out of way enough on the camstraps without disconnecting fill hose, fuel lines, etc.
I've used 2 camlock straps to retain, lower, and raise skid plate by myself. Same for tank, after skid plate is on ground and out of way.
My thought would be drop the skid plate entirely, get it out of the way. Then see if you can suspend tank off camstraps, loosen tank mounts, and swing tank out of way enough on the camstraps without disconnecting fill hose, fuel lines, etc.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 393
Likes: 60
From: Vermont
Thanks man, I appreciate it. I spent about 4 hours wrestling with it. Enden up having to zip the inboard skid plate bolts as they were seized and spinning. Not a good design. I put a jack under it and lowered it, removed the front steel tank strap and all of that adhesive! and lowered it as needed. Took way longer than hoped. I did the passenger side by myself in a little over 3 hours. Today I just managed to get all the new bushings located. I'll torque and reinstall tommorow.
Are OE tank straps available? One of mine is looking haggard. Also, everyone still run the skid plate? I see it as a good safety for tank straps etc. but it looks like New England rust trap.
Are OE tank straps available? One of mine is looking haggard. Also, everyone still run the skid plate? I see it as a good safety for tank straps etc. but it looks like New England rust trap.
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 664
Likes: 129
From: Columbia, MD
LMC or Bronco Graveyard should have straps. Others may also, but those are my usual sources.
My tanks rusted ON TOP, under the pads where the straps pressed them into the frame. A little rust on the bottom under the pads against the straps. None between the tank and skid plates. There is enough clearance there that unless you get a lot of mud or debris in there, it won't stay on the tank. Might stay in the plate and rust the skid plate through from the top, but shouldn't be a risk for the tank.
My tanks rusted ON TOP, under the pads where the straps pressed them into the frame. A little rust on the bottom under the pads against the straps. None between the tank and skid plates. There is enough clearance there that unless you get a lot of mud or debris in there, it won't stay on the tank. Might stay in the plate and rust the skid plate through from the top, but shouldn't be a risk for the tank.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 393
Likes: 60
From: Vermont
Good info, thanks. As long as it's all off, I'm painting the pan and oil undercoating everything that it covers up. Hopefully I'll never have to be in there again unless I want to do some tank upgrades.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2022
Posts: 112
Likes: 47
From: New Hampshire
Front Tank Removal
This is "Front Tank Removal" right? The rear tank IS SUPPORTED by the skid plates.
The front tank on my 97 is plastic (which doesn't rust) is held in by two straps.
Empty the tank!!!
Remove the skid plate under the front tank.
Remove the filler tube, fuel lines, the vent tube and the wire to the sending unit before dropping the tank.
Note: Siphoning the fuel may well damage the take-up screen in the tank. I'd suggest you change it anyway as they get brittle with age and shatter with lots of small pieces that might damage your tank selection valve if sucked up.
Back off the bolts that tie the tank to the chasse. Drop the tank for inspection and repair. Remove, inspect and repair the tie straps for rust and corrosion before reinstalling the tank
When you are done working in the area, repair or replace the the plastic covered bituthene vibration pads. They protect the tank from vibration damage.
I suggest you replace the rubber gasket under the tank' sending unit cap if you repair the sending unit up-take screen.
Good luck!
The front tank on my 97 is plastic (which doesn't rust) is held in by two straps.
Empty the tank!!!
Remove the skid plate under the front tank.
Remove the filler tube, fuel lines, the vent tube and the wire to the sending unit before dropping the tank.
Note: Siphoning the fuel may well damage the take-up screen in the tank. I'd suggest you change it anyway as they get brittle with age and shatter with lots of small pieces that might damage your tank selection valve if sucked up.
Back off the bolts that tie the tank to the chasse. Drop the tank for inspection and repair. Remove, inspect and repair the tie straps for rust and corrosion before reinstalling the tank
When you are done working in the area, repair or replace the the plastic covered bituthene vibration pads. They protect the tank from vibration damage.
I suggest you replace the rubber gasket under the tank' sending unit cap if you repair the sending unit up-take screen.
Good luck!
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 393
Likes: 60
From: Vermont
Tank was beyond "E" before I did this. I only disconnected fuel filler and front strap to gain access to the mount. Looking into replacement straps with foam etc as they are looking shot.
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