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Got a '95 250 Powerstroke a few months back, got cornered into removing the oil pan (crack was patched with JB weld). Need advice big time on small stuff an experienced hand knows backwards, like: can I raise the engine with a board and jack under the pan? How does that dipstick come out of the side of the pan? How do the fuel lines disconnect (after the clips are off)? Do you think the insurance company will pay if I roll it outside and torch it? If anyone has survived this experience, I'd like to communicate, however is permitted via this forum. Thanks. Oh yeah:
i don't think lifting the engine with a board and jack is gonna get it high enough... removing the pan usually requires pulling the engine out of the truck... i haven't done it and hopefully won't have to
for the dipstick, the retainer is inside the pan, the nut is on the outside. if you remove the nut, the retainer will fall into the pan.
not sure about the fuel lines
Seems like the pan is the weak link in the engine. I have a 2001 PSD and I think the pan gasket is leaking as well. It is going to the shop tomorrow to get taken care of. What a bummer...hope it does not take weeks and weeks to fix.
Woe is us, gents! Had the engine pulled, got the pan welded (vs $300 more for a new one) and took care of a bunch of misc. nonsense while it was out. Expected a bill around $1000 - but then on test drive, found the fuel pump is leaking so adios to another $420. 9 days in the shop so far - is it too late for a Chevy?
The engine needs to be lifted about 6" or so. Don't lift it by the pan, the engine weighs about 1000# so you will most likely crush it. Fuel lines disconnect using a fuel line tool (collar) to expand a spring inside the fitting, just like the gasser fuel lines do. Fuel line tool set can be bought at a parts store. about $15 for the set.
Dipstick tube is leaking on mine and was told that it was an o ring on the inside. Tranny has to be removed, Motor has to be lifted out. Very expensive repair for a 3 cent o ring. Auto parts store has catch pans for sale! I got mine.
Gents - have been running mine again for 3 or 4 days - nary a drop of oil under it now. Soon as I get over grieving for the cost, I'll appreciate that a lot more.
On that O-ring on the dipstick - having spent a bunch of time under there, I think it could be possible to replace it from the outside. But - and this is a biggy - if you slip and that dang thing falls down inside, you may really be up a creek. Worse, it would have to be the closest thing to being a proctologist - you would be working through a tight hole and it's dirty and it wouldn't be fun. How about just removing the big nut that holds the dipstick tube in place, and putting a homemade gasket or O-ring on the outside? A thin cork gasket would fit under the nut and could slow the leak considerably - put some pipe goop on the threads and I'll bet you could stop it altogether. Also, I don't see why the tranny would have to come out even if you did have to pull the engine - are these guys milking you?
Sorry to hear that the fuel pump was not found earlier. Glad to hear the leak in fixed. As far as other ways to fix the leak......there is always another way to skin a cat, at least you can rest assured that you did it the right way, and it will last.
Ave great to hear the leak god has been silenced. The dip stick leak is not that bad. Just aggravating. I can deal with it. Still trying to get over the bill for my repairs. Had a major PCM failure brought on by injectors being bad. It was time to replace anyway. Seems everybody is getting back on the road. Life is good.
Hello
I am new here and can not figure out for the life of me how to start a new thread. (Maybe someone can advise by private message). I wanted to post in the 70's discussion area. Anyhow, I have this 79, the dipstick tube does into the side of the oil pan and is held by a nut similar to a brake or fuel line. The indent on the pan makes it near impossible to get a wrench in there. I finally had a retired mechanic tell me to cut a slot in the box portion of a 5/8" 12 point box wrench, and cut most of the handle away. After destroying the wrench, I actually was able to turn the thing, about 1/10th of a turn at a time. (Not one of Fords better ideas). This forner mechanic told me that there may or may not be an O-ring. It may just be a flare of sorts, part way up the end of the tube and to try to tighten it first. I tightened it and the leak is greatly reduced, but still dripping. At least I am not losing a quart of oil every 25 miles like I was. But I want to stop this drip entirely.
I went to 2 local Ford dealers and both told me they have no records to any vehicle prior to 1980, so they can not tell me if it needs an O-ring or sell me an O-ring if it needs it. I was not happy to hear that. So, I am not sure what to do. I dont want to tear it apart and not be able to stop the leak or use the truck. This is a farm truck and needs to be used almost daily to feed animals.
That former mechanic told me if nothing else, just remove that nut and fill the whole nut with red heat resistant silicone, tighten it, and let it dry for at least a day. Someone else told me to clean the top of the nut with break cleaner and use JB Weld to coat the whole tube and nut. I agree that will stop the leak, but if I ever do need to remove the diptube, it will not come out.
So, I am at a loss as to which thing to do.
If anyone can help, it sure would be appreciated.
Thanks
George
Originally Posted by horsecop
Dipstick tube is leaking on mine and was told that it was an o ring on the inside. Tranny has to be removed, Motor has to be lifted out. Very expensive repair for a 3 cent o ring. Auto parts store has catch pans for sale! I got mine.
I know you said oil dipstick, maybe this will help.
my 1986 4.9L 300 6 had a transmission dipstick leak where the tube fits into the transmission pan. A good auto parts house researched a $.17 O Ring that fit over the tube and stopped the leak.
The tube was secured to the engine block, and a pre removal inspection revealed a 20 year old O Ring was flat worn out!
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