Hello, I have recently purchased a 1979 f350 super cab and am in the process of fixing it up. I found a decent deal on a 460 that came out of a 1979 e350 with low miles. I've also read that the motor mounts are different between the two of these, so what would need to take place to mount this engine and keep all of my f350 accessories. The 460 came out of an rv and the guy claimed it had 18k miles on it. It also has a different location for the dipstick, is there a way to remove the old one and put mine in from my f350 460. Also wondering if I can take off the weird oil filter thing coming out of the block? I'm pretty new to all of this but I'm trying to learn.
-Duncan

This is the weird oil filter thing I'm talking about. Or would it be better to leave it, only thing is I'm not sure if there's enough clearance?

 

With both motors out and sitting next to each other you can then look them over and see what is different.
I cant say about the motor mounts but again when both out you can see and if different swap them.

Are the oil pans the same? some have front sump and others rear and if different just swap them.
Now this can be a little more work as the oil pump pick ups would be different and 1 may use a main cap bolt / stud to support the pickup tube.

I dont know where the dipsticks go in on each would it be the oil pan or block?
If you swap oil pans / pickups you will need to change the dip sticks as it will now not be in the sump of the pan.
Again not knowing / seeing the set up I cant say how to swap this.

On the oil filter adapter, again look at both motors. From what I remember a 100 years ago on a van I had the adapter bolts on to the block with a bolt thru the center IIRC.
If you unbolt it you then need to swap the threaded nipple from your 460 to the E460 motor so the filter has something to screw on to.
You may be able to loosen the adapter and turn it so the filter clears but note there are 2 gaskets, 1 under the bolt and the other adapter to block that may need to be replaced.
Again from what I remember from back in the early 80's when I did a 460 swap in a 76 E350 van. Dont remember what the motor was out of
Dave ----

 

Assuming the supercab already has a 460 everything can be swapped over. Strip the RV engine down to the long block, then swap everything from your engine over. The engine mounts that bolt to the block will be different between a RV chassis and a pickup, so either use your old ones or get new ones for your year/make/model truck. If your current engine doesn't use that oil filter adapter, you can remove it, and use whatever is on the old engine. Also, since it's from an RV chassis, the exhaust manifolds might be different and the oil pan is probably different so you'll probably need to use your old ones. Just take your time, takes lots of pictures and keep everything you take apart well organized. Go buy a couple boxes of cheap zip lock bags and some small notepads so you can label and store all the small parts/hardware, get a wax or paint pen so you can label larger parts, and get a roll of good quality masking tape so you can wrap hoses/wiring to label them.

 

X2 on what Speedfreak78 said. I did the same swap last year on my F350. It will bolt right in if you use the truck engine motor mounts. As for the oil filter adapter...I removed the RV version and found the right size threaded nipple on Amazon for like 10 bucks. Screws right into the block and then you'll be able to thread on an FL-1A. The RV engine also has the dipstick in the pan (for trucks, rear sump) versus thru the block (car version, front sump)

 

The dip stick is in the timing chain cover on the truck 460 and front sump 460 oil pans.. Is there a mechanical fuel pump mounted to the timing chain cover of the E350 if yes your good. If it has a block off plate then the E350 had an electric fuel pump. This is important if you want to run the mechanical fuel pump you'll need the eccentric that's on the 79' F350 because it is what actuates the mechanical fuel pump arm.

 

Thanks for the replies, I figured it would be very similar but I didn't know where to start. Im also wanting to add some new parts such as intake heads headers and a cam kit. Any suggestions as to which things I should go with, I'm looking to stay on a budget but I want it to get some decent horse power and torque and for it to have a nice rumble. Another question I have is do I have to do any machine work if it all looks good or can i just take it apart and clean it really good and maybe replace some bearings. The guy I bought it from had just taken off the intake manifold and has stuff sitting on top the engine so I don't know if anything got inside of it or not, so should I take it all the way apart or just portions?

 

Here are some pictures of the new engine and the current one, I apologize for how bad of a picture the third one is of the old engine.

 

I would tear it down and have the block, dissembled heads, and intake hot tanked and start from there even if machine shop work is not in the budget based on what I see.
The by-pass of emissions with those "hillbilly" block-off plates are a reason to internally inspect he motor.

 

@redroad thanks for the suggestion. Machine shop is definitely in the budget if needed, I'd rather spend the money on necessary things. I appreciate the help I'm trying to figure stuff out on my own but I need some guidance with this.

 

No problem on the help. I bought 4 motors from a guy this last spring 2 460's and 2 390's. He had a fleet of 73-79 fords for his landscaping busines and when he retired he had these motors that had been professionally rebuilt but had been sitting for some 35 years. So I'm in the middle of going through the two 460's right now. On on e I found a mose hotel living under the intake manifold. All the macjine work was right on, once I tanked the block and inspected the machine work.

 

@redroad Thanks for the help, and that sounds like quite the project. When I disassemble it should I take the heads and everything to the machine shop, or just take it as is and have them do it? It's probably personal preference but would one be better?

 

What I do is begin with with boxes of various sizes of zip lock bags. I pull the heads by taking each rocker arm and hardware push rod etc. and label the bag with what cylinder and motor it came out of. Take plenty of pics and take notes. This is the only way I can keep this **** straight at this juncture in my life. Once at the machine shop you'll make decisions on what's usable and within factory tolerances. If you don't have the tools to check the specs on your parts then you'll have to trust a good machine shop to do that.

 

I'll probably end up doing just that thanks for the idea. You got any suggestions for intakes or budget friendly long tubes?

 

With the long tubes, It's actually one of the more important pieces but whose potential will never be realized without recurving the distributor, opening the heads, and tightening quench. You can increase the compression by using later year 460 EFI stock pistons. So to answer the question about long tubes the best budget long tubes IMHO are the ones L&L offers at about $650 now. You can find complete L&L kits that have all the accesory pulleys and brackets plus the headers on craigslist and FB market place that people who've abandoned their projects and are just trying to get out from under it. So they're considerably cheaper than full retail. The stock intake is not bad just have it tanked. You;ll save yourself about $380. by passing on the only intake worth buying , the edlebrock , but there really isn't anything to be gained by it when were talking a motor running less than 450 hp. Just block out the exhaust crossover with metal plate and put a 3/16ths hole in them if you'll be experiencing colder Winters.

edit: With the 88-91 FI piston and 95cc D3 heads, c/r is about 8.9:1, or perhaps 9:1 if you zero deck the block.

 

thanks for the suggestions! Those parts are probrably dependent on the machine shop bill lol, just a teenager trying to learn.