when i start my truck and pull the choke, n the throttle is very snappy. very responsive.

so when choke is on, so to say, air is leaner making fuel more, in comparison to air.

when the truck is warmed up and i bump the gas pedal, it stumbles 1x for a second then revs up. bogs then revs, but not when choke is on. would this lead me to believe that without the choke i need to richen up the mixing screws

 

look at the accelerator pump on your carb first. With the engine off, look down the throat of the carb and work the throttle. It your accelerator pump is working, you should see a squirt of gas down the throat of the carb when you open the throttle. No squirt of gas = stumble off the line.

 

yes, w truck off, i can manipulate the throttle and it will squirt

 

Year, make, model, carb, ignition system? What vehicle are we talking about here? And to clarify, is the problem a hesitation or stumble off the line?

 

1981 f150
4x4
302ho
rv cam
hydraulic lifters
headers
holley 2bbl performer
new distributor
new cap
new coil
new plugs
new ignition module
new wires
manual 4spd

i drive it daily. it drives fine,

sitting in driveway, if i hit the gas and let go it has one long stumble then catches up , i don't drive that way as i ease on the throttle

if it's choked and warming up, i can bump the gas the same way and get snappy solid response

 

I believe you still have accelerator pump problems. It's only when you snap the throttle you have problems, that is what the accelerator pump is for. If you ease into it and drive it down the road, that is your main jets so they must be ok.

Since that is a aftermarket Holley 2 barrel, there should be some adjustment or another hole you can put a linkage arm into to make it squirt more fuel.

 

Here is a tuning manual for a Holley. The picture shows a 4 barrel, but yours is the same except for missing the rear 2 barrels.

https://documents.holley.com/199r7849-2rev1.pdf

 

right. i appreciate it. i understand how it works, i'm merely asking if the slight stumble while bumping the gas pedal was due to being too little fuel from the mixing bc it's responsive when air is minimized / choked

 

You are just limiting the airflow and making it richer. So this "covers up" the problem when the throttle blades fly open and all that air is presented to the engine if the choke is open. With the choke partially shut, that is less air to the engine when the throttle is stabbed.

 

exactly, so would it be fair to said my mixture is too lean during normal operation?

 

No, because once you get going and are cruising down the highway it runs fine correct?

 

it runs fine. i don't like how when i jab the throttle it gives me one lengthy bog then catches up. after it's warmed up n choke is off. i don't do that during normal driving conditions, i *** throttle as i remove clutch.

 

im getting ready to go to gym i'll take the ol girl

 

Before you go messing the the carb check the timing what is it set at and the idle speed?
Also check that the mechanical advance and vacuum advance works as it should as this will also cause a bog.

There is no linkage / arm adjusting to say on a Holley carb. There is a arm that slides on a colored "ramp" that has different holes that kind of does the same thing.
There are different colored ramps that also have different hole and with them you can adjust when the pump will pump the biggest shot.
At the start, middle, end or even thru out the throttle movement.
To tell the truth I have never needed to play with the ramps. I have always used the one that came with the carb.


Once you have that checked and is working as is should and still have a bog you can look at the carb.
IIRC the Holley 2300 v2 carb, boththe 350 & 500 CFM comes with a 30cc accel pump diaph. and think a 28 squirters.
I have found the need to bump up to the 50cc pump diaph. and 30 or 31 on the squirter to get the bog out.

You also have a power valve (PV) that comes into play between the pump shot and the high speed jets.
Most of the time they say start with a PV half of what idle vacuum is.
So if idle vacuum is say 20 HG you want to start with a 10 HG PV.
I think 6.5 comes with all Holley carbs but you can also play with the PV to fine tune the carb.
If you find at steady cruise speed the truck surging go 1 HG lower or higher on the PV and see how it runs.

BTW after you have the idle speed set, timing set, advance known to work, float level set, adjust the idle mix screws on either side of the carb and see if the bog is any better.
All of that needs to be done with motor up to normal temp and choke off.

I have run the 2300 Holley on a 238 straight six w/ header, son has one on a Jeep 258 straight six mo header, and I got one on a AMV 304 v8 factory manifold dual exh.
I have also run v4's on a few different v8's and really like the Holley carb's
Dave ----

 

i'll mess w timing today thank you sir!