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Front rotor selection help.

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Old Nov 23, 2003 | 09:46 AM
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Front rotor selection help.

Autozone lists a rotor only for $33 and a rotor with integrated spline hub for $69. I have not removed my setup comepletly but I can see a line where maybe they (long portion with Torx end and rotor) can come apart on the truck. Which should I get so I'm not making two trips? Is the rotor assembly one piece or two?
 
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Old Nov 23, 2003 | 10:14 AM
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From: NJ ... the garbage state
its a two piece setup that usually has to be pressed apart/together. Most places will press it on and then cut it in case of any warpage while pressing. I strongly reccoment against those cheapo ones, as they are often prone to rapid warping. I personbally prefer to cut the stock when possible, or splurge for the brand name rotors. Had a set of those inexpensive ones and warped em without even towing a trailer after a short period of time, and had to do the job again.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2003 | 10:47 AM
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One is gouged. The other is ok. Should I replace one and cut one or like the pads, do they both need to be replaced on both sides at the same time.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2003 | 12:15 PM
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From: NJ ... the garbage state
well, they dont "NEED" to be replaced at the same time. The calipers should adjust themselves to the sightly different thicknesses in the rotors, and you braking will be even between the two sides.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2003 | 12:48 PM
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Click my signature and look in the Brakes & Hubs album - it shows exactly how the hub & rotor fit together. The integrated one is for '87-early'88 only, with flange-type hub locks.

Considering the low cost of the rotors, I'd replace the pair. You know you're gonna have to do the other one soon anyway, and you'll already have all the tools out, and you'll already be greasy & dirty...
 
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Old Nov 23, 2003 | 04:14 PM
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i agree with steve83 they are cheap and you are already dirty so replace them both. yoiu dont have to but again you are already in there. now if you were to do the rears the drums have to be within 20 thousands of each other or you will notice and feel a brakeing sway from the back.69.00 will save a lot of work but you labor is cheap and it is not that complicated to change just the rotors.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2003 | 01:22 AM
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OK, I pulled the automatic hubs out and now I need some special tool. I just want to replace the rotors. Jesus. Is it just that one special tool needed? A locknut wrench?
 
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Old Nov 25, 2003 | 02:57 AM
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You need a spanner nut wrench. You can rent one if you don't want to buy it.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2003 | 10:43 AM
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That's it? Just that spanner nut wrench? That's the only special tool I'll need for this job?
 
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Old Nov 25, 2003 | 06:28 PM
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If you're replacing the bearings, you'll need a LONG drift. Some people build a special tool to grease the spindle, but it's not really necessary.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2003 | 11:46 PM
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All I want to do is replace the rotors. I hope that does not entail the bearings as well.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2003 | 07:09 AM
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Originally posted by steve83
Click my signature and look in the Brakes & Hubs album...
 
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Old Nov 26, 2003 | 08:02 AM
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I just replaced my rotors , (Autozone rotor & hub assy), and replaced my bearings. The only special tool I bought was the spanner wrench. I decided to buy since I knew I was going to use it again when I replaced my ball joints and got new hubs. The rotors have held up nicely and since I put them in I have hauled a horse trailer to Texas and back to colorado, (loaded on the trip back), went hunting hauling a 30 ft camper, fourwheeled, and drive 50 mi. everyday round trip to and from work. No warpage yet. You dont have to replace the bearings but since you have em off, may as well do it anyway.
 
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