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Old Dec 16, 2023 | 03:29 PM
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sticking brakes

Looking for opinions.

Have become tired of the constant brakes hanging up. I figured every time I switch from winter to summer tires and back breaking down the calipers and brackets to clean and grease the slides would be enough. Apparently not.

I am thinking about drilling and tapping a grease fitting on the bracket and every 3 months giving a pump or 2 of some high temp wheel bearing grease in.

Thoughts?
 
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Old Dec 17, 2023 | 04:01 AM
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You need to be using dielectric/ silicon based lube. need to fully clean whatever you are using off the slide pins/ cavities and do not use too much.
Also need to make sure the pads move freely

you can use sil-glyde, superlube, AGS or similar. The stuff you are using and some brake lube solidifies and dries out. Siicone/ dielectric grease will not, it's rated for much higher temps...unless something else is going on causing too much heat of course
Also, a good rule is to fully check the brakes annually, but we know most don't do that
 
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Old Dec 17, 2023 | 09:20 AM
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I've owned a lot of cars, all of them have had over 175k miles, some up to 300k. I've never experienced chronic caliper seizing as you've mentioned. How many miles on them? Something seems weird. Is it the slide pins or the actual caliper pistons? Brake fluid clear?
 
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Old Dec 17, 2023 | 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by bajaphile
I've owned a lot of cars, all of them have had over 175k miles, some up to 300k. I've never experienced chronic caliper seizing as you've mentioned. How many miles on them? Something seems weird. Is it the slide pins or the actual caliper pistons? Brake fluid clear?
They have less than 7000 on them. It is usually the slide pins. Everything except the abs and some of the hard lines has been replaced. Brake system was flushed when I did the MC.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2023 | 10:16 PM
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He's using bearing grease on the slide pins if I read correctly. That will easily cause his issue.

Like I said yesterday, you need silicon lube (dielectric grease) and those issues will go away
 
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Old Dec 18, 2023 | 04:13 AM
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I have been trying different brands of brake parts lube. I have 4 different kinds sitting on a shelf. All of them say good to use on slides. If I remember the one with ceramic was the worst, leaving a stiff residue on the the pins.

 
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Old Dec 18, 2023 | 06:15 AM
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Originally Posted by INFRNL
You need to be using dielectric/ silicon based lube. need to fully clean whatever you are using off the slide pins/ cavities and do not use too much.
Also need to make sure the pads move freely

you can use sil-glyde, superlube, AGS or similar. The stuff you are using and some brake lube solidifies and dries out. Siicone/ dielectric grease will not, it's rated for much higher temps...unless something else is going on causing too much heat of course
Also, a good rule is to fully check the brakes annually, but we know most don't do that
Good solid advice EXCEPT I would argue you can't use too much. Any time I put a light coating on them, they seize up (though usually it takes 40-50k, not 7). Generally speaking if some doesn't come back out of the hole when applied there isn't enough there.

I would suggest trying a synthetic-based lube for the slide pins. I have had good luck with those.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2023 | 06:22 AM
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Ordered some ags sil-glide. Going to take it apart and clean everything while I'm waiting.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2023 | 06:28 AM
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The ride surface and the retainer hardware should be looked at. Aswell as the coating on the pad backing. Might need careful filing or adjustment or replacement.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2023 | 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Truckwardo
The ride surface and the retainer hardware should be looked at. Aswell as the coating on the pad backing. Might need careful filing or adjustment or replacement.
Whenever I'm in there, I make sure pads move free. I have found some brands of pads that the ears are too big. I take a grinder to them until they move free.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2023 | 07:09 AM
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The only other issues I've seen cause a slight sticking are the tinware was made slightly wrong. And didn't seat right. A ballooned rubber brake line. Or a deformed phenolic piston in the caliper. But I would imagine a master cylinder could cause the same issue. And book Learning tells me seals inside the abs pump can fail. Causing a symptom as stated.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2023 | 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by INFRNL
He's using bearing grease on the slide pins if I read correctly. That will easily cause his issue.

Like I said yesterday, you need silicon lube (dielectric grease) and those issues will go away

I have not been using bearing grease. I have been using various brake parts lubes. I saw a post somewhere that someone used high temp synthetic wheel bearing grease and never had an issue.

I did order some ags.

My 02 f250 never had this problem, it was bought used with over 100k and I had it for about 4 years. Had a 2000 X with over 200k and only did the calipers maybe once and brakes a bunch of times. 2012 f250 did rear calipers I owned that for 3 years and put maybe 15-20k on it before it got totaled. Brakes on this thing aren't the only things that pi$$ me off. It's one thing after another.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2023 | 04:51 PM
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Finally got a chance to work on it. Needed new slide pins on one rear side, they were really stiff in the bore. Cleaned all the bores and pins and greased with ags sil-glyde. Did all 4 corners.

Even tho the front has pretty new calipers, brackets and pads, the pads did not slide easy. My thought is the spreader springs should be able to move them and the were not. Had to grind some off the pads ears to get them to move easy. 98% sure I made sure they moved easy when I put them in, because of all the issues I have with it. I dunno...

Found a couple of new drips on the ground, so I won't be moving it until I figure out what's leaking now.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2023 | 04:01 PM
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Got the leak fixed. Stoopid hose clamp.

Drove it around doing errands. Got home noticed a hot brake pad smell. Left rear was much hotter than the others. Same corner that kicked this thread off. Don't think any of the calipers were hard to compress to get it back together.

Guess I'll take it back apart tomorrow.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2023 | 02:38 AM
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Originally Posted by 99powerstrokedF250
I would argue you can't use too much.
I'm going to have to disagree with this...too much can cause a hydrolock situation with the pins. I agree that the pin needs to be fully coated though with a thin layer
Originally Posted by samsdad02
I have not been using bearing grease. I have been using various brake parts lubes. I saw a post somewhere that someone used high temp synthetic wheel bearing grease and never had an issue.

I did order some ags.

My 02 f250 never had this problem, it was bought used with over 100k and I had it for about 4 years. Had a 2000 X with over 200k and only did the calipers maybe once and brakes a bunch of times. 2012 f250 did rear calipers I owned that for 3 years and put maybe 15-20k on it before it got totaled. Brakes on this thing aren't the only things that pi$$ me off. It's one thing after another.
sorry, I just remember you saying something about wheel bearing grease. I just reread your OP

some of those brake parts lubes are only for certain parts regardless of what it says, especially the ceramic. that should never be used on slide pins for the exact reason you mentioned.
Originally Posted by samsdad02
Got the leak fixed. Stoopid hose clamp.

Drove it around doing errands. Got home noticed a hot brake pad smell. Left rear was much hotter than the others. Same corner that kicked this thread off. Don't think any of the calipers were hard to compress to get it back together.

Guess I'll take it back apart tomorrow.
Maybe worth another brake bleed to be safe. Unless that caliper is sticking for whatever reason. I faulty master cylinder could cause an issue like that I believe
sounds like your truck is a demon child.

If you aren't aware, you can bleed the brakes by yourself very easily and works way better than the old school method
 
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