Slightly bent pushrods
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,239
Likes: 104
From: idaho
And my truck has been super Smokey on startup again .. And it’s been hard starting also. I checked the glow plugs again and they’re all working. 100% for sure.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,239
Likes: 104
From: idaho
yeah, this is why I’m replacing them. I’m thinking dang maybe this has been my issue for a long time but I’m not banking on it
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,239
Likes: 104
From: idaho
the rest of my post got deleted apparently. I didn’t even notice it. Anyway. I did roll them across my glass patio table. And 2 of them were more obvious than the rest. But the 8 I circled all had a little bow to them and definitely a different sound as they rolled across the table.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,239
Likes: 104
From: idaho
This might be a dumb question, but I’m gonna ask anyway. I pulled the pushrods out a few days ago and the truck has been sitting in the shop, am I going to have to evacuate the cylinders before I try to start the truck? I guess my question is did oil leaked down into the cylinders while it was sitting there without the pushrods in?
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,239
Likes: 104
From: idaho
I was considering the Smith Brothers brand, but I’m also considering selling my truck
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,239
Likes: 104
From: idaho
Got everything buttoned up. Rotated the crank. All looked well. Started the engine. All seemed well.
couple hours later I had time to finish the rest of the truck, put the valve covers back on and the intake and now my intake sounds like someone is hammering… Sounds like a pushrod is bent . . Way worse than it was before I touched everything.. so my question is do the valves need a little time to self adjust or do you guys think I bent something?
couple hours later I had time to finish the rest of the truck, put the valve covers back on and the intake and now my intake sounds like someone is hammering… Sounds like a pushrod is bent . . Way worse than it was before I touched everything.. so my question is do the valves need a little time to self adjust or do you guys think I bent something?
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,239
Likes: 104
From: idaho
The strange thing is off of idle everything sounds totally normal, so that’s why I was wondering if maybe it just needs time to self adjust or something
here’s a video of my now destroyed sounding 7.3. 😱
I took the valve covers back off. Removed 5 of the 16 rockers cause I couldn’t wiggle them at all. Thought it would be a good place to start. All 5 of the brand new push rods are warped now on the glass table. And the noise from the intake is 10x worse then it was.
With the valve covers off and no intake everything sounds totally normal. It's weird.
https://youtube.com/shorts/wun_3MFbsVA?si=tA8KPwziHfg8c5V7
here’s a video of my now destroyed sounding 7.3. 😱
I took the valve covers back off. Removed 5 of the 16 rockers cause I couldn’t wiggle them at all. Thought it would be a good place to start. All 5 of the brand new push rods are warped now on the glass table. And the noise from the intake is 10x worse then it was.
With the valve covers off and no intake everything sounds totally normal. It's weird.
https://youtube.com/shorts/wun_3MFbsVA?si=tA8KPwziHfg8c5V7
Butt-Head
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 9,453
Likes: 2,936
From: Reed Point, MT
Popping in the intake usually means an exhaust valve isn't opening.
No adjustments can be made or will happen over time.
Did you throw pushrods in and hammer the rocker arm bolts home with an impact? The reason I ask that is because the lifters have internal springs that will run the plunger to the top of the lifter and suck in oil from the oil galley in the process. This only takes a few seconds. When pushrods are reinstalled and some pistons are really near TDC, the valve can be opened enough to hit the piston before the plunger in the lifter is forced back down against the internal pressure of the slip fit seal inside. Using an impact runs the pushrod down quicker than the oil can be expelled from the lifter.
In the assembly instructions for these engines, it is necessary to rotate the crankshaft to a position where none of the pistons are at or near TDC to avoid this problem. The notch on the harmonic balancer is supposed to be at 11 o'clock for reassembly. While there are many places the crankshaft can ve for this scenario, the balancer mark is the only external place to see the pistons' positions.
No adjustments can be made or will happen over time.
Did you throw pushrods in and hammer the rocker arm bolts home with an impact? The reason I ask that is because the lifters have internal springs that will run the plunger to the top of the lifter and suck in oil from the oil galley in the process. This only takes a few seconds. When pushrods are reinstalled and some pistons are really near TDC, the valve can be opened enough to hit the piston before the plunger in the lifter is forced back down against the internal pressure of the slip fit seal inside. Using an impact runs the pushrod down quicker than the oil can be expelled from the lifter.
In the assembly instructions for these engines, it is necessary to rotate the crankshaft to a position where none of the pistons are at or near TDC to avoid this problem. The notch on the harmonic balancer is supposed to be at 11 o'clock for reassembly. While there are many places the crankshaft can ve for this scenario, the balancer mark is the only external place to see the pistons' positions.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,239
Likes: 104
From: idaho
Popping in the intake usually means an exhaust valve isn't opening.
No adjustments can be made or will happen over time.
Did you throw pushrods in and hammer the rocker arm bolts home with an impact? The reason I ask that is because the lifters have internal springs that will run the plunger to the top of the lifter and suck in oil from the oil galley in the process. This only takes a few seconds. When pushrods are reinstalled and some pistons are really near TDC, the valve can be opened enough to hit the piston before the plunger in the lifter is forced back down against the internal pressure of the slip fit seal inside. Using an impact runs the pushrod down quicker than the oil can be expelled from the lifter.
In the assembly instructions for these engines, it is necessary to rotate the crankshaft to a position where none of the pistons are at or near TDC to avoid this problem. The notch on the harmonic balancer is supposed to be at 11 o'clock for reassembly. While there are many places the crankshaft can ve for this scenario, the balancer mark is the only external place to see the pistons' positions.
No adjustments can be made or will happen over time.
Did you throw pushrods in and hammer the rocker arm bolts home with an impact? The reason I ask that is because the lifters have internal springs that will run the plunger to the top of the lifter and suck in oil from the oil galley in the process. This only takes a few seconds. When pushrods are reinstalled and some pistons are really near TDC, the valve can be opened enough to hit the piston before the plunger in the lifter is forced back down against the internal pressure of the slip fit seal inside. Using an impact runs the pushrod down quicker than the oil can be expelled from the lifter.
In the assembly instructions for these engines, it is necessary to rotate the crankshaft to a position where none of the pistons are at or near TDC to avoid this problem. The notch on the harmonic balancer is supposed to be at 11 o'clock for reassembly. While there are many places the crankshaft can ve for this scenario, the balancer mark is the only external place to see the pistons' positions.
so I probably screwed myself over? Should I remove all of them again and check? The only instructions I could find stated to have the engine at 11 o’clock position. I hope I didn’t further damage anything else