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It doesn’t matter whether the hubs are in auto or locked. If the transfer case is shifting out of 4wd you shouldn’t be able to feel the front axle shafts rotating even with the steering turned all the way left or right.
The fact that you are experiencing the axle jumping indicates that both the transfer case and hubs are engaged. It might be something simple but you may as well let the dealer worry about it.
This isn’t true. It’s all about whether the hubs unlock or not in 2WD. If a hub is locked that axle u-joint is turning with the tire and isn’t free to articulate for a full lock turn. If the hub is unlocked the u-joint will orient itself for a smooth turn. One pair of bearings in the u-joint can be completely frozen and the truck can still turn as long as the free bearings are top and bottom.
In 4WD the u-joints are turning whether the hubs are locked or not a you’ll get some binding on full turns regardless.
First a little background. My previous truck that I had for 12 years was a fully manual four-wheel-drive system. This new truck is the auto locking system. The situation I’m getting is the u-joints are clunking like my fully manual system did when the hubs were engaged at full wheel turn in 2WD. Am I missing something? Is there something you need to do to fully unlock the auto hubs?
That is normal. You will get a little binding when you’re in 4x4 and turning left or right at full lock. It isn’t anything to worry about.
This isn’t true. It’s all about whether the hubs unlock or not in 2WD. If a hub is locked that axle u-joint is turning with the tire and isn’t free to articulate for a full lock turn. If the hub is unlocked the u-joint will orient itself for a smooth turn. One pair of bearings in the u-joint can be completely frozen and the truck can still turn as long as the free bearings are top and bottom.
In 4WD the u-joints are turning whether the hubs are locked or not a you’ll get some binding on full turns regardless.
Go try it….. you can unplug the vacuum solenoid so the hubs don’t engage when you engage 4wd and there will be no binding. Then try disengaging the 4x4 and manually lock your hubs …. Again there will be no binding even though the tires are driving the u-joints.
The reason the binding occurs with 4x4 engaged during sharp turning is due to the fact there is no differential between the front and rear axles. The front axle is making a larger circle than the rear axle and so either the rear tires need to slip or the front tires need to skid.
Go try it….. you can unplug the vacuum solenoid so the hubs don’t engage when you engage 4wd and there will be no binding. Then try disengaging the 4x4 and manually lock your hubs …. Again there will be no binding even though the tires are driving the u-joints.
The reason the binding occurs with 4x4 engaged during sharp turning is due to the fact there is no differential between the front and rear axles. The front axle is making a larger circle than the rear axle and so either the rear tires need to slip or the front tires need to skid.
I agree with all that. But I don’t think he’s talking about the driveline binding due to no differential action in the transfer case. I thought he was talking about the clunk you get in the front end when the hubs are locked in a sharp turn in 4x2 mode.
It sounds to me like his hubs may not be unlocking and that can quickly and easily be tested by reaching behind the wheel and trying to spin the axle shaft with the Xfer case in 2WD.
I agree with all that. But I don’t think he’s talking about the driveline binding due to no differential action in the transfer case. I thought he was talking about the clunk you get in the front end when the hubs are locked in a sharp turn in 4x2 mode.
It sounds to me like his hubs may not be unlocking and that can quickly and easily be tested by reaching behind the wheel and trying to spin the axle shaft with the Xfer case in 2WD.
You may be right ….. maybe I need to lock my hubs in manually and turn the wheels hard right or left ….. I’m pretty sure that if the transfer case is in 2wd there won’t be any binding of the u joints ….In my mind there sure shouldn’t be.
You may be right ….. maybe I need to lock my hubs in manually and turn the wheels hard right or left ….. I’m pretty sure that if the transfer case is in 2wd there won’t be any binding of the u joints ….In my mind there sure shouldn’t be.
There will be. When the hubs are locked, the axleshafts have to turn with the tires regardless of what the transfer case is doing.
There will be. When the hubs are locked, the axleshafts have to turn with the tires regardless of what the transfer case is doing.
Yes the axles will turn but they should turn absolutely freely …, there is no reason for them to bind if the outer and inner wheel are connected through a differential and the transfer case is disengaged.
Yes the axles will turn but they should turn absolutely freely …, there is no reason for them to bind if the outer and inner wheel are connected through a differential and the transfer case is disengaged.
The axleshafts are connected to the u-joints at the wheels. When your hubs are locked, and you turn sharp, the u-joints are still turning at a sharp angle in a bind which gives you the feeling in the steering wheel. The diff and t-case play no part in that.
Now if the t-case was engaged, it would amplify the feeling since the front tires and rear tires move in different arcs when turning.
I lock my hubs every few months and drive for a day or so to keep them working, and that’s exactly what happens.
As a matter of ESOF practice (or manual hubs) when done with 4wd Ops, going back to 2wd I will drive in reverse for about 10yds. That way any gear lash that could be holding the hubs to the axle splines will relieve allow the hubs to unlock 100%.
… .
Listen to this Wise Man
I’ve always done this same method too.
you have to understand how the system works.
Both 4H & 4L should be exercised monthly to keep everything working properly imo.
People kill me crying when their 4wd doesn’t work & saying I never use it
The axleshafts are connected to the u-joints at the wheels. When your hubs are locked, and you turn sharp, the u-joints are still turning at a sharp angle in a bind which gives you the feeling in the steering wheel. The diff and t-case play no part in that.
Now if the t-case was engaged, it would amplify the feeling since the front tires and rear tires move in different arcs when turning.
I lock my hubs every few months and drive for a day or so to keep them working, and that’s exactly what happens.
I have never noticed a binding while driving my Chevy in 2wd. Neither Chevy nor Ram bother with freewheeling hubs as they feel the efficiency gained through them is insignificant. I have accidentally driven one of my Fords with the hubs in the locked position and the way I noticed was by chance seeing the hub locks were rotated…. I didn’t feel anything in the steering. I’m going to lock the hubs today and give it a try ….. maybe if I use my imagination a bit I’ll notice the difference.
It is totally normal to feel or hear when hubs are engaged and t case is in 2wd. Especially if you are on dry pavement. My 95 D60 is much more pronounced on dry pavement than in dirt or snow but anytime the hubs are locked you get feedback from the front end. My 2022 is the same way but less pronounced.
I cringe every time I see one rolling down the road too.
it’s absolutely UNNECESSARY for this.
IF I had to buy another brand : it would be Dodge & DEFINITELY have to have an aftermarket MileMarker Kit disabling the driveline
I cringe every time I put my F-350 into 4X4... Holly Molly, WTF, Never had anything like that kind of binding happening in my Chevy, in 4X4 or in 2wheel drive.
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