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I got rebuilt engine back in my truck with some major issues.I noticed when first started cold the temperature starts to rise and goes all the way to "H" before it starts going back down.Seems like it takes for ever for the thermostats (160 degrees) to open ! Is this normal?Skip Haney water pumps installed also.Temperature never gets below third mark on gauge?Rebuilder installed adjustable lifters and I think they are noisy also!Engine runs smooth with plenty of power but has these issues showing up.Any suggestions on where to go here?
WP's -- depending which of Skip's pumps you got, you may need non-standard thermostats. Some of them are not supposed to use thermostats. Which ones did you get, or are they stock but rebuilt by Skip?
At any rate, that is not proper behavior. I would put in Gates #33008, Robertshaw # 330, or NAPA: THM 530060 (160 deg ), THM 530080 (180 deg). Even with a quality brand, very common to get a stinker that is out of spec. It may only be one that is bad.
I also have adjustable lifters, and compared to the stockers that can be noisy on start-up, not excessive but noticeable. A '52 engine should have the Rotamatic style valve train, which uses wider clearances to begin with. Maybe run it as-is for a couple hundred miles and then check for proper clearance? As I recall you have a Merc cam? or is it an Isky Max?
Thanks Ross,I have stock pumps rebuilt by Skip.I have the stock cam. I think I may have found problem possibly with gauge and one of the thermostats.With the truck warming up drivers side goes to around 170 degrees and stays and the pass side goes on up to past 200 degrees before temp starts down!After truck has set an idled for a long period in garage the temp on radiator at neck is around 180 degrees and gauge is reading between third mark and H.I am using a Harbor Freight temp gun?? The mechanic put in some fancy Valvoline 10-30w racing oil for older vehicles,said engine needed ZDDP?Not sure about all this I never used it before,maybe gave them a dose of STP and Marvel Mystery,been driving flatheads for 40 years!
Are you sure you don't have any air pockets in the block? If you have an air pocket that moves across the temp senders, that will cause erratic readings like you described. They can also be dangerous to the health of your engine.
I've heard you should park it on a hill with truck facing down hill. Leave the radiator cap off. Run the truck at faster than idle to get the temperature up
I've heard you should park it on a hill with truck facing down hill. Leave the radiator cap off. Run the truck at faster than idle to get the temperature up
Facing uphill. The flathead engines are slanted down to the rear as-is, and the outlets are at the front.
I have never heard this before.Does it have to be on a real steep hill?Do you just take radiator cap off and let truck idle up to temperature from cold to hot?Please explain. Thanks,Russ
The steeper the better, but nothing extreme. Make sure the heater is On so any air in it gets swept out. It helps if the engine is fully warmed but thermostats have reliefs to let air and a small amount of water to get past them even when cold.
I think I'd test the thermostats in a pan of hot water, I've had a couple that were way off spec.
I pulled out the temp senders on the head, filled the radiator until the coolant came out of the sender holes, then put the senders back in and filled the rest of the way. No pockets of air and I didn’t need to burp it.
Here is Bob’s contact info. My print off of Skips process is at Dads shop, I will post it tomorrow. Skip should have included one in your return packaging. He recommended purple ice and some stop leak also. I followed his directions and had no issues. You may have some debris blocking your thermostats, given it’s been cleaned. A piece of scale or rust maybe. 200 sounds high.
If he just rebuilt your stock pumps, with stock impellers, you don't need anything special. He makes impellers that do require high-flow stats. Give him a call.
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