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Old Dec 26, 2023 | 07:22 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Dlwalker713
Update***

Swapped in a motocraft ICM…had a Accel one that came with the distributor and she’s running GOOD for now. This is a consistent problem I burned up 2 MSD chips and a MSD distributor last year……I’m running motorcraft coil and ICM still running the MSD 6al box tho.

side note: while switching ICM I took the distributor out and when I was stabbing it in again I knocked the oil pump shaft down into the pan….so she got a new melling oil pump and oil pan gasket as well……feel free to laugh now
I wont laugh at you because congrats you figured out a lot! And well, you live you learn. The oil pan probably leaked like a sieve anyway. Just sped up your effort to get around to it is all. Its a testament tho to the quality of aftermarket parts these days if your issue was just the aftermarket ICM.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2024 | 12:15 AM
  #17  
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**UPDATE to the update… started running rough again…so I got fed up and bought an edelbrock intake and threw an edelbrock 650 cfm carb on it and it runs better than ever….i took all that EFI junk off the 302 and it loved it…still gotta clean up my engine bay a tad bit….

I know the hat is upside down I need longer hardware to make it work the right way 😂
 
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Old Feb 4, 2024 | 01:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Dlwalker713
**UPDATE to the update… started running rough again…so I got fed up and bought an edelbrock intake and threw an edelbrock 650 cfm carb on it and it runs better than ever….i took all that EFI junk off the 302 and it loved it…still gotta clean up my engine bay a tad bit….

I know the hat is upside down I need longer hardware to make it work the right way 😂
I see multiple issues, 1st being your plug wires are crossing eachother at angles which could cause cross fire , they need to at least be spaced apart (You can do this with zip ties or plastic guides) where they must cross.

I also see bad hose clamps for heater hose applications

And that HEI gm style distributor, where is the vacuum advance pointed because I think you can restab it in order to place the can at a better spot if yoyu have clearance issues.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2024 | 01:05 PM
  #19  
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Oof. I wouldn't have done that. The stock refi system is very good. Mods like this usually introduces it's own problems like vapor lock and engine stalling under heavy braking.
Your original problem was your fuel pressure, which someone mentioned and you ignored.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2024 | 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Prototypemech
Oof. I wouldn't have done that. The stock refi system is very good. Mods like this usually introduces it's own problems like vapor lock and engine stalling under heavy braking.
Your original problem was your fuel pressure, which someone mentioned and you ignored.
his carb is gonna love that 50 psi lol LOL he probably regulated it,. but still a great point. No provision on the camshaft for a mechanical pump and those will introduce vapor lock in the fuel lines because of drawing vacuum on a long line of liquid gas lowers the boiling point and vapor doesnt exactly get pulled through a pump very easily. But vapor lock could also occur after if the engine bay is hot enough
 
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Old Feb 4, 2024 | 02:05 PM
  #21  
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Yea I put a Holley regulator on and a carb spacer for vapor lock….
 
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Old Feb 4, 2024 | 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Dlwalker713
Yea I put a Holley regulator on and a carb spacer for vapor lock….
carb spacer still doesnt fix fuel lines , can you tell me how your pumping the gas?
 
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Old Feb 4, 2024 | 02:56 PM
  #23  
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Running my in tank fuel pumps to a Holley fuel pressure regulator then to the carb. I’m running a carb spacer so I don’t get vapor lock
 
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Old Feb 4, 2024 | 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Dlwalker713
Running my in tank fuel pumps to a Holley fuel pressure regulator then to the carb. I’m running a carb spacer so I don’t get vapor lock
Well at least you dont have fuel line vapor lock before the regulator. where is the regulator at? And is your regulator setup to take that kind of Pressure? If it is.. okay.. but 50 psi or more is a lot for a carb regulator unless its designed for that. And you have a computer then still to run the pumps? And a carb spacer does not help if your vapor lock isnt from a hot carb if you have an aluminum carb which you appear to, that makes sense to have a phenolic spacer but you should work on getting a thermostatic air cleaner like offered in the 70s and 80s trucks with 4 barrels. should fit on your carb and gives you cooler air for your intake which helps lower that concern and run better.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2024 | 11:25 AM
  #25  
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Bette


better picture of my setup I know it’s a mess right now I just got it completed this last weekend. I got new spark plug wires on the way tomorrow…any other suggestions/ideas/help? Im kind of freestyling this but my truck has been running very well since I made the change from EFI to carb


 
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Old Feb 6, 2024 | 01:08 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Dlwalker713
Bette


better picture of my setup I know it’s a mess right now I just got it completed this last weekend. I got new spark plug wires on the way tomorrow…any other suggestions/ideas/help? Im kind of freestyling this but my truck has been running very well since I made the change from EFI to carb

so you see that copper elbow you have on the heater core water outlet there? You should get rid of that. copper in an aluminum/iron system especially touching directly to rusty metal i cant imagine is a good idea for the vehicles cooling system.

o you see that copper elbow you have on the heater core water outlet there? You should get rid of that. copper in an aluminum/iron system especially touching directly to rusty metal i cant imagine is a good idea for the vehicles cooling system.
 

Last edited by AuroraGirl; Feb 6, 2024 at 01:11 AM. Reason: o you see that copper elbow you have on the heater core water outlet there? You should get rid of that. copper in an aluminu
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