Disconnected fuel tank????
10 bucks worth of gas spilled on the floor.
Scared I had a fuel tank leak, I quickly got under to inspect.
i then found this.
Looks to be a fuel line?
after doing some research, I found out that it belonged to my fuel reservoir, and seems to control the front tank supply. I however, could not find a possible place where this line would connect. Is there something I’m looking over? Any help is appreciated, thanks.
You should have one fuel connection on each tank, and then 3 connections on the switching valve.
A plain old zip-tie can be threaded through the little holes and will keep things together until you can get a proper clip.
It is also possible that someone knew enough to remove the clip, disconnect the line, and let your gas pour into a bucket; if that be the case, then the missing clip may be somewhere on the ground.
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I guess this also explains why the real tank always read empty when switched.
In the end, I ended up draining the rest of the fuel in the rear tank, and capping off the line, essentially rendering the rear tank useless. i DO plan on reconnecting everything in the future though, but for now. It’ll remain unoperable, and besides, I don’t do much long distance trips either, so there would be little to no use for it regardless.
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I guess this also explains why the real tank always read empty when switched.
In the end, I ended up draining the rest of the fuel in the rear tank, and capping off the line, essentially rendering the rear tank useless. i DO plan on reconnecting everything in the future though, but for now. It’ll remain unoperable, and besides, I don’t do much long distance trips either, so there would be little to no use for it regardless.
Way back when my truck was nearly new, after the fourth tank selector stalled me out and near got me killed, I installed two manual selectors, one for draw and the other return, and put the gauges on a double-throw toggle switch.
If you do opt for manual selectors, don't get misled into using the ones that include ports for both draw and return as the skinny stem is having to turn two ball valves instead of one and will soon snap off between the two valves (bad) or just above the top valve (worse).
I would not have another O.E.M. selector put in my truck with a gift of $500 along with it; that is how little confidence I have in them.
Way back when my truck was nearly new, after the fourth tank selector stalled me out and near got me killed, I installed two manual selectors, one for draw and the other return, and put the gauges on a double-throw toggle switch.
If you do opt for manual selectors, don't get misled into using the ones that include ports for both draw and return as the skinny stem is having to turn two ball valves instead of one and will soon snap off between the two valves (bad) or just above the top valve (worse).
I would not have another O.E.M. selector put in my truck with a gift of $500 along with it; that is how little confidence I have in them.
My truck has always been diesel; maybe it is a diesel thing; I do know that diesel will destroy a gasoline-rated fuel line within days; so, maybe Ford does not make sure their switches are compatible with diesel.
I wonder if it's more that your switch is use weekly as to one that maybe has sat for years...not used.
The 300 motors used carbs so no return fuel lines only supply to the motor driven pump then to the carb.
Now there should be a 3 port valve on the frame rail in front of the side tank, kind of under the drivers butt.
I think with truck off , key on and not a lot of noise you can hear the valve click when the switch is moved.
The 3 ports are 2 inlets = 1 from each tank.
1 outlet = to the motor driven pump.
This valve only has 1 electric wire going to it and the valve is grounded when bolted to the frame rail.
This valve defaults to 1 port, on mine it is the port marked "rear", so no power to valve it is on the rear tank.
This can become an issue if the switch is on the front tank and the fuse blows for the fuel valve.
The gauge still reads the front tank as that is what the switch is on but no power to valve defaults to rear and will be pulling fuel from the rear tank.
I was lucky as the rear tank was full and I did not see the front tank level dropping for the driving I was doing.
I then switched to the rear tank and found it was no longer full.
When I was running wires for trailer lights I shorted the fuel valve wire and it blew the fuse and why no power to the fuel valve.
Yes it is that simple

BTW being I have a flare side they never came with dual tanks so I added mine.
Flare sides are short bed trucks and they only come with a 16 gallon front tank, no rear tank option.
I added the 19 gallon rear tank and vary happy I did because if I drive my truck to / from work for the week that is 400 miles and on 16 gallons I would need to stop and fill up a lot more.
Dave ----
edit: I did not know the later 300 six trucks used plastic fuel lines and mine are metal the use short rubber hose & clamps to make connections.
Back in my gas-burner days, I did this same work with only a puny little 16-gallon tank; I spent more time at filling stations than I did driving; I carried two Jerry Cans and resorted to them often.
Then, a friend showed up one day with another tank, brackets, fuel selector, and all for the other side of the truck and I felt like I could head to Alaska and get halfway back before worrying about fuel.
Now, if 32-gallons was all I had, knots would be in my belly all the time, worrying about running low.













