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when warmed up i get smoothest idle at 1000. shoukd it be 900, i'm not huge when it comes to knowledge on carbs and exact adjustment. i can turn the tiny flat head screws on driver and passenger side of carb and idle it up or down, but seems smoothest dead on 1000. is that alright?
If it's the original engine and if no one removed the emissions sticker it should show what the curb idle and high idle is supposed to be set at. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-idle-rpm.html that link states 600
of course that is stock and you probably need to bump yours up more if it is hopped up any.
Unless you have a large cam and a high stall converter the smog sticker is what you go by.
At 1000 RPM you might not be on the idle part of the carb but the high speed, read main jets.
I would set it to the 600 RPM in gear if auto and 600 RPM for manual as a start.
At that RPM check timing with vacuum hose removed and plugged.
You can also set it to the smog sticker but I think I would start at 10* to 12 * BTDC.
If not pinging or starter kick back.
You may need to reset the idle speed after timing.
Using a tach or vacuum gauge you can adjust the idle mixture for the highest readings.
Make sure you adjust both of them the same amount.
Once the timing, carb and idle speed is adjusted it should run smoothly.
Dave ----
"One of the most common questions I get asked about setting idle on a carburetor, its the inability to get it to idle below 1000 RPM. Almost 100% of the time, its the transfer slots giving people fits. We'll discuss what they are, how they work and most important - how to correct that high idle issue."
That thing should idle happily at 6-700ish
Screenshot of Transfer slots referenced. Alot of folks Don't understand what happens when the throttle blades are opened too much
Using a tach or vacuum gauge you can adjust the idle mixture for the highest readings.
Dave ----
after my recent straight-up timing chain install, should I readjust my fuel mix? Bust out the gauge? Or should it be fine from before? I didn't feel the need to adjust the idle.... Sorry about the thread-jacking
no hijack dude, we're all here for the same thing.
i assume for your issue the question would be how far off was the timing prior to chain R&R? how's it run now?
as far as me, she would start beautiful, manual choke, idle down beautifully when choked turned off. while driving, never cut off at sudden stops or anything, i just didn't like the idle at 1000 rpm. i adjusted the main idle screw and she immediately sounded happy at almost dead nuts 600 according to factory tac. drove it, a little iffy from a stop into gear and sounded iffy at first when coming to a stop. adjusted the idle mixture and she smoothed out a bit at idle and drives so much better. i'm happy
no hijack dude, we're all here for the same thing.
i assume for your issue the question would be how far off was the timing prior to chain R&R? how's it run now?
as far as me, she would start beautiful, manual choke, idle down beautifully when choked turned off. while driving, never cut off at sudden stops or anything, i just didn't like the idle at 1000 rpm. i adjusted the main idle screw and she immediately sounded happy at almost dead nuts 600 according to factory tac. drove it, a little iffy from a stop into gear and sounded iffy at first when coming to a stop. adjusted the idle mixture and she smoothed out a bit at idle and drives so much better. i'm happy
That's good to hear.
I had some "valve noise" while at cruising speeds. There was a lot of slop in the factory 8° retarded timing chain. I replaced it. After a couple of heat-cycles all of my engine noises disappeared. I'm very happy. The truck runs well.
Just reading Dave's reply got me thinking about my truck and fuel mixtures. Easy enough to slap the gauge on and check it. God loves carbureted engine simplicity.
That's good to hear.
I had some "valve noise" while at cruising speeds. There was a lot of slop in the factory 8° retarded timing chain. I replaced it. After a couple of heat-cycles all of my engine noises disappeared. I'm very happy. The truck runs well.
Just reading Dave's reply got me thinking about my truck and fuel mixtures. Easy enough to slap the gauge on and check it. God loves carbureted engine simplicity.
I would go back over everything just to make sure everything is running at peak.
Dave ----
okay, well, i shall revive and old thread. why you may ask? i would like to point out an issue i had while i was trying to get a smooth idle, lower then 1-1200 and remove sone stumble.
intried and tried and could not get what i believed to be great idle.
i've not messed w carbs since 2001ishhhh and everything since has been modern diesels.
i was doing some ignition work (cap, rotor, plugs and wires) as well as trying to find too dead center and a dubachle of a mess when someone tried to help me and throw in their two cents. i always appreciate it and 90% of the time their help is dead on.
in my quest to locate tdc , positively, i removed the passenger side valve cover to watch the rocker arms. in the process of removing the valve cover i found a pcv valve, broken albeit, attached to a hard line hidden behind the engije block and between the fire wall.
after i was able to get the correct firing order and a new cap and rotor working, i replaced the pcv valve and placed into my newly painted valve cover and she's never idled lower or smoother andy stumbles have disappeared.
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