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I found the EVP I’m going to see if my store can order it. If I can get confirmation it’s bad, since there isn’t an ohm reading between any of its pins. And the EGR doesn’t get vacuum but I think that’s because the EVR can’t get information if the valve is closed or open.
When I put the HVAC vacuum hose on it it did die once, and tried to die otherwise. So the passages are clear.
This is the EVP and signal return When I set it to 20k this is the EVP and vref reading
The EVP read when I set it to 20k but not 200.
So now I need a EVR since it wouldn’t give the EGR vacuum?
This is the only EVR I could find. Is it gonna work not being motorcraft I can’t go to a junkyard they are too far to have a 50/50 shot of it working. The way I tested the EVR, I drove it till the needle hit the N on the temp gauge and came back unhooked the vacuum line and put the vacuum pump onto it and it wouldn’t read anything. So do I need to use an actual vacuum gauge to test? Or is it legitimately not getting vacuum? I gave it throttle from the throttle body so I don’t know what rpm it hit.
Is it those multimeter readings that makes it dead or some other info I gave? Just curious so I can know, trying to remember all this stuff to get better at diag.
That EGR valve will not open with you playing with the engine speed when sitting static in a garage
It has to be road speed part throttle cruise
Then the processor says okay to the EVR to open the EGR valve (ground) (duty cycle to the EVR solenoid)
Once your processor sees the EVP signal (saying the EGR valve is opening) it should run much better
Ford made 2 different types for our trucks, make sure you have the correct one, not getting motorcraft, some members have found that the stem is too long and 'always' keeps EGR open enuff, to cause new different issues.
see link-->Ford Fuel Injection » EGR Valve Position sensor (EVP)
The EGR valve out of position code will not go away if you get the wrong color EVP
The pinging not so much
Engine carboned up? (needs a drink of water)?
Base timing at 10 BTDC?
Based timing 10 BTDC. The sensors still bad though right? When I did the IAC it was pretty nasty. That’s the most I’ve really seen of the engines cleanliness. Is it time to run some seafoam through the intake and do an oil change next? Or is there still some diag to do?
I can maybe run a vacuum line through the firewall to the EVR to test but id rather not have to. It does it sometimes at idle and under load, cold or hot so I’m wondering if the EVP ever caused that and that’s just a thing I found to be bad in the process?
Yes,
Once you get it to output 11-10-11 meaning no codes you are good to clean the injectors and throttle plate / upper end
Clean the injectors through the rail (smack the inertia switch with a hammer) which kills the pumps, run the Ford pressurized sauce through the rail
Run 1/2 a can of carb foam (cleaner) through the throttle plate until it's clean. That will clean the valves and upper end at the same time
That is what the dealer will charge 175-275 for (fuel injection service) You can buy your own cleaner and do it for less
I have 3 cleaners, The OTC one I use the most these days. I can do all makes with that one
I attached a video of the ping so that it can be verified as a ping to make sure I'm not mistaking the noise for something else. I did install the new sensor, so with that separate issue aside I can figure this out more
Not sure when I'm going to get to it, but I am going to look into the knock sensor next, I do have a code 25. If that checks out I will look into the code 44 and 13.