Balljoint replacement necessary?
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 127
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From: Chicago
Balljoint replacement necessary?
Tomorrow, I'm doing my front brakes and I was thinking...what about the balljoints while it's all apart? But are they necessary? I think they may be worn as the front end does clunk over bumps but it straightlines on the hwy no problem. I was also looking in the manual and they specify a ball joint tool but it looks just like a large C clamp.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 132
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From: South Bend
There's a heck of a lot more to take apart than if you're just doing brakes. The tool has a cup on the one side for pressing the ball joint out. Haven't done this yet myself and I'm not looking forward to it.
Freshman User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 34
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From: Vancouver Canada
it's a biiiig job. best to budget time and money for everything else that can wear in that area at the same time, such as front axle UJ's, wheel bearings, rotors, grease seals etc etc. but it can be done, if you are persistent and handy with a f-big hammer.
it took me a week of very late evenings to do the above jobs, and that was in an apartment underground parking - the neighbours were not impressed!!
it took me a week of very late evenings to do the above jobs, and that was in an apartment underground parking - the neighbours were not impressed!!
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
Likes: 12
From: Gateway to the West
Agreed, ball joints are one heck of an undertaking. I did them on my 92 and I didn't even pull the balljoints. I pulled the knuckles and sent them out to have the old ones removed and new ones installed. Tearing the front end that far down is time consuming at the very least.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,739
Likes: 3
From: GANS
I did them on my 85 pickup, which is pretty similar to a bronco. On mine, I needed a 1-5/16" open end wrench to get the upper bolt off (about $26 from sears), and have to get a 6 point 1-1/8" socket for the lower, a big breaker bar, and a forged ball-joint fork. Oh, just to make you feel better, when you put them back on, the new joints use a 1-1/8" upper nut, so you can throw away that 1-5/16" wrench.
I did the u-joints, balljoints, spindle bearings, seals and repacked the wheel bearings. It took after work a week and half the weekend to do it. it wasn't FUN, but I felt 'cool' after doing it
btw, I didn't use the balljoint press. I clamped them in a vise, and use a bar & a 2# sledge, and all the balljoints came out relatively easy (and I don't think they were ever replace). Getting them back in required two people. one to hold the knuckle, and one to pound them in with a pipe that fit & big sledge.
btw, from experiance, don't anti-seize the lower joint, unless you have an impact wrench. trust me!
I did the u-joints, balljoints, spindle bearings, seals and repacked the wheel bearings. It took after work a week and half the weekend to do it. it wasn't FUN, but I felt 'cool' after doing it
btw, I didn't use the balljoint press. I clamped them in a vise, and use a bar & a 2# sledge, and all the balljoints came out relatively easy (and I don't think they were ever replace). Getting them back in required two people. one to hold the knuckle, and one to pound them in with a pipe that fit & big sledge.
btw, from experiance, don't anti-seize the lower joint, unless you have an impact wrench. trust me!
Freshman User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver Canada
btw, from experiance, don't anti-seize the lower joint, unless you have an impact wrench. trust me!
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