2wd Balljoint replacement
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Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,199
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From: Missouri
2wd Balljoint replacement
One of my Balljoints needs replaced. I'll go ahead and replace the lower and upper though.
The book says I need to remove the brake caliper, rotor, inner bearing cone and seal, and the brake dust shield. Plus the steering linkage from the spindle arm.
Are all of these steps really necessary on a 2wd?
The book says I need to remove the brake caliper, rotor, inner bearing cone and seal, and the brake dust shield. Plus the steering linkage from the spindle arm.
Are all of these steps really necessary on a 2wd?
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Yes.
I'm guessing you've never replaced ball joints before.
These might help:
http://www.off-road.com/trucks4x4/ar....jsp?id=198389
Two videos:
http://www.expertvillage.com/video/7...-press-out.htm
Video: How to Install a Truck's Lower Ball Joint | eHow.com
BTW I would want to replace them ALL.
I'm guessing you've never replaced ball joints before.
These might help:
http://www.off-road.com/trucks4x4/ar....jsp?id=198389
Two videos:
http://www.expertvillage.com/video/7...-press-out.htm
Video: How to Install a Truck's Lower Ball Joint | eHow.com
BTW I would want to replace them ALL.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,971
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From: Virginia
I have never done a 2wd, but you may need a special balljoint press like you do on the 4wd to get the balljoint out. I got one cheap from Harbor Freight and it works ok. I did replace one before without the tool, but it require a lot of hammering, and some finagling with a hydraulic jack to press the new one in by jacking up the truck by the new balljoint and pounding on the suspension arm.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Missouri
Thanks for the replies. You are right, I haven't replaced on before. I'm going to pick up the balljoint press from Harbor Freight sometime this week, maybe tomorrow.
Next thing, Autozone has cheapo Duralast and Valucraft balljoints. O'Reillys has/can get Moog, Master Pro, Rare Parts and Motorcraft balljoints. I'll just forget about the cheap junk from autozone. And the "Rare Parts" balljoints seem to be the most expensive so forget them.
So I am left with Moog, Motorcraft and Master Pro.
Motorcraft Upper: $53.99
Moog Upper____: $53.99
Master Pro Upper: $16.99
Motorcraft Lower: $32.99
Moog Lower____: $43.99
Master Pro Lower: $12.99
Are the Motorcraft/Moogs really worth almost 3x the price?
Next thing, Autozone has cheapo Duralast and Valucraft balljoints. O'Reillys has/can get Moog, Master Pro, Rare Parts and Motorcraft balljoints. I'll just forget about the cheap junk from autozone. And the "Rare Parts" balljoints seem to be the most expensive so forget them.
So I am left with Moog, Motorcraft and Master Pro.
Motorcraft Upper: $53.99
Moog Upper____: $53.99
Master Pro Upper: $16.99
Motorcraft Lower: $32.99
Moog Lower____: $43.99
Master Pro Lower: $12.99
Are the Motorcraft/Moogs really worth almost 3x the price?
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2011
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Yes the moogs you won't find a better ball joint dont go with cheaper ones as you will be replacing them in a year or so.
I would do all 4 and get it over with
What happens is the new side is good and strong and the other side becomes weak (loose) within a few months And puts unneeded stress on the new side
I have delt with meny times and they always come back
It becomes a vicious cycle of ball joint repairs
a ball joint press will save you a lot of time beer and 4letter words
Good luck
I would do all 4 and get it over with
What happens is the new side is good and strong and the other side becomes weak (loose) within a few months And puts unneeded stress on the new side
I have delt with meny times and they always come back
It becomes a vicious cycle of ball joint repairs
a ball joint press will save you a lot of time beer and 4letter words
Good luck
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
From: Panama Illinois
The master pro ball joints are junk!!! I have tried them two different times, the first time I tried them the lowers went bad in twenty miles. The second time is a much more complicated story but they went back before the tires went on.
I would go with moog or napa brand.
I would go with moog or napa brand.
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
You can't go wrong with Moog parts. The Motorcraft (factory OEM that lasted ~30 years) should be pretty good, too.
Might also want to get yourself a small, hand-held sledgehammer (I think they're around 2.5 pounds).
Might also want to get yourself a small, hand-held sledgehammer (I think they're around 2.5 pounds).
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 8,005
Likes: 7
From: Ottawa, Ontario
A normal C-clamp style ball joint press works great for 2wd.
Nothing easier than ball joints on these 2wd Fords.
Nothing easier than ball joints on these 2wd Fords.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 2,936
Likes: 9
From: Acworth, GA
Yes the moogs you won't find a better ball joint dont go with cheaper ones as you will be replacing them in a year or so.
I would do all 4 and get it over with
What happens is the new side is good and strong and the other side becomes weak (loose) within a few months And puts unneeded stress on the new side
I have delt with meny times and they always come back
It becomes a vicious cycle of ball joint repairs
a ball joint press will save you a lot of time beer and 4letter words
Good luck
I would do all 4 and get it over with
What happens is the new side is good and strong and the other side becomes weak (loose) within a few months And puts unneeded stress on the new side
I have delt with meny times and they always come back
It becomes a vicious cycle of ball joint repairs
a ball joint press will save you a lot of time beer and 4letter words
Good luck
I agree with the Moog recommendation.
As far as doing them all at once, not so much. Some years ago, while buying some new tires and getting an alignment, my alignment guy told me that my drivers side lower ball-joint needed replacing. I had it done and did notice the difference. Some years later, I still have not had to replace any of the other ones (knock on wood). Maybe I am lucky, I can't say.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 2,936
Likes: 9
From: Acworth, GA
Honestly, I can't remember. It's been at least 10 years or more since it was done. I think it was a little sloppy and I believe there was some clunking or noise of some type when I took it off road. But Honestly, I just don't remember.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Missouri
I probably shouldn't have, but I bought the Master Pro's. For $30 i'll take the risk, because I may need to take it back appart to change the camber bushings anyway. I just need to replace the balljoints so it can be aligned and see how much the camber is off. If they fail I'll bring them right back and upgrade to the Moogs.
I actually asked for the Moog but they only had the upper in stock, and none of the stores stock the Motorcraft balljoints.
I also picked up the balljoint press and a Timken "wheel seal."
I should also mention that I have to go back to O'Reillys because they gave me one correct balljoint and one for a 4700lb gvwr truck. It's not the persons fault, their website doesn't list it correctly.
I actually asked for the Moog but they only had the upper in stock, and none of the stores stock the Motorcraft balljoints.
I also picked up the balljoint press and a Timken "wheel seal."
I should also mention that I have to go back to O'Reillys because they gave me one correct balljoint and one for a 4700lb gvwr truck. It's not the persons fault, their website doesn't list it correctly.