Possible to add PATS?
So from a ease-of-install point of view, No, you can't add PATS. But I'm sure it's possible with the right programming software and detailed knowledge of how PATS works on your vehicle.
If you want extra security, what about a switch (or push button) in the "start" wire from the ignition switch (or the transmission "allow to start circuit") that needs to be ON to start? That would also make the expensive "smart" key unnecessary.
If you want extra security, what about a switch (or push button) in the "start" wire from the ignition switch (or the transmission "allow to start circuit") that needs to be ON to start? That would also make the expensive "smart" key unnecessary.
I was planning on adding a couple of kill switches as well, but didn't think about putting it on the transmission line thanks! I feel the ignition column is too easy for someone who is already thinking about hot wiring though. I did also end up buying the 2014 wiring book for it and researched for quite a bit on PATS. Worse comes to worse, if forscan can't program the key the dealership should be able to flash the PCM and IC.
Also I want to make this as complicated as possible for thieves and have a budget of 3k for security. The PATS system is pretty stinking hard to bypass. You either need the key or a few hours to swap out the PCM and do all the software configuration. Or if it turns out to be a dealer only reprogram, that's even better. A kill switch you just have to find.
Please let me know if I'm missing something or if you know of a good access point for the transmission line it would save me some digging around. I also wanted to add one to the fuel injectors as well if you know of a good point to add a switch in line for that as well.
If you interrupt the injectors, you aren't stopping the engine from trying to start. My 2009 has "One Touch Start" which means you only need to "bump" the key to the START position and release it. The PCM then takes over and continues to crank the engine until it starts. I have no idea how long it would crank on a no-start condition but it might be long enough to eventually have concerns about the rest of the starting system.
Cutting the SMCS signal wire from the PCM might (emphasis on MIGHT) eliminate the One Touch Start system but I'm not sure.
Another possibility is a home-built combination lock of sorts. A couple (or more) of selector switches wired in series so they all need to be in their correct position to allow a start. I'd put the switches in some type of secure box and run a bunch of wires out of the box. You could hook up two of those wires to provide the in and out for the start circuit and ground all of the others. If somebody tried to jumper those wires odds are good they'd connect hot to one of the grounded leads before they guessed the correct pair. At that point there's a blown fuse and it's just not going to start.
Yet another option is a "real" combination lock similar to this:
still using the secure box & bundle of wires mentioned above to reduce the possibility of jumping out the lock.
The advantage of this is you don't have to remember to reset it after you start the truck!
Keep us informed of what you decide to do and how it works out.
Good Luck!
I used this Avital unit on my 97 E350. It's simple and inexpensive. You need a professional installer that will document how it is connected. Maybe interrupt the starter solenoid or transmission "park" switch.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/23482799578...mis&media=COPY
Trending Topics
I used this Avital unit on my 97 E350. It's simple and inexpensive. You need a professional installer that will document how it is connected. Maybe interrupt the starter solenoid or transmission "park" switch.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/23482799578...mis&media=COPY
They're pretty easy to defeat unfortunately, I've installed a couple of vipers. All you have to do is cut all the wires going to it. Im assuming most thieves know this. I'm going to put one in though but its main purpose will be to make noise in the locked cargo box that has some hidden remote locks and a backup battery plus horn.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
but ill chime in with some of my security stuff
I wired in the fuel pump to a relay to a kill switch
I took some 1/4 wall 2x2 square tube and made basically the back door to the box section the way a gun safe works with hardened pins etc... same with the side boxes. there is a actuator that has NO access other than by a wireless entry fob built in not part of the ignition. I also have a lo-jack tracker in a 1/4 steel box that you have to get at under the frame. in the end i still have a $85K tool auto business policy that covers everything just in case anything happens for $250 a year... Its all documented and covers a work truck if anything happens.
IMO going too complicated is pointless. just get good insurance and make it secure. we are trying to stop the fly by thieves looking at a quick grab.
but ill chime in with some of my security stuff
I wired in the fuel pump to a relay to a kill switch
I took some 1/4 wall 2x2 square tube and made basically the back door to the box section the way a gun safe works with hardened pins etc... same with the side boxes. there is a actuator that has NO access other than by a wireless entry fob built in not part of the ignition. I also have a lo-jack tracker in a 1/4 steel box that you have to get at under the frame. in the end i still have a $85K tool auto business policy that covers everything just in case anything happens for $250 a year... Its all documented and covers a work truck if anything happens.
IMO going too complicated is pointless. just get good insurance and make it secure. we are trying to stop the fly by thieves looking at a quick grab.
I didn't realize there were insurance policies for just 250$ a year. Who do you use? Ive gotten quoted over 2000$ a year. Also what type of LoJack ? from the LoJack company? or is it one of the gps trackers on amazon?
Progressive commercial bundles with my personal auto with 4 bikes and 2 cars and renters, i have a flawless driving record, AAA member, GPA, security, and one of the tattletale OBDII devices that lowers my rates. believe it or not my NRA membership paid for it's self just in the savings i get with it. Colorado loves NRA... evidently! they also have a loyalty program and some other stuff but its a list for sure of good boy behavior that gets me LOW rates. all 4 of my motorcycles are about $60 a year EACH
I also pulled a life insurance and a umbrella 2mill policy that gave me big discounts. i dont care as long as i have my heath everything is covered!
my auto policy is about $790 a year for 100/300 $500Deductable, with 60 miles free tow up to 4 times a year, road side, glass etc.... then i have a $250 additional policy that covers personal items / business items 60k coverage of tools and 20K in itemized large over $1500 value tools.
https://www.lojack.com/








