What if 3D printer was used to modify the existing vent in the same manner that I did with the caulking?

I have no experience with 3D printing so not sure if this is possible.

This is where my mind went instantly when I read Jason’s post. Build up the sides so the water doesn’t simply run off at the outside edge of the upper, raise the height of the lower side dam, then create a lip on the inside height of both the upper and lower to better contain any water that makes its way past the rubber flaps.

I not sure how closely you’ve looked at your vents but just at the lower edge where the flap seats there is a lip that actually impedes the water from draining which I trimmed out as well.

 

Unless I can figure out how to print/cast something OEM size, with the new features. Or cut down the new vent to fit with my narrowed hole idea.

I think your caulking idea on OEM vents is the best I have seen in all the threads on this and will go that way.

I could delete the vents, but they factor as pressure releases in the event of airbag deployment and I want to keep that feature.

I am also considering making a fabricated sheet metal "catch tray" which is the width of the vents. Panel adhesive it the back wall with a 5/8" hole in the bottom, with a barb which runs piped to a hole in the floor.

 

That would work. Then you wouldn’t have to even remove the existing vents which entails moving the box back = 8 T-50 bolts to be removed. I destroyed 3 bits and only got 7 out. 1 got cut.

 

That's next level!

 

Its hokey I know, but my only concern is keeping the water out of the cab...

 

Finally got back to the vents. Passenger side was leaking through the lower passenger side flap panel.

Drivers side is leaking through the bottom flange.

Carpet was surprisingly not that wet.

Inspected rear window seal and cab light, and top cab moldings and didn't see any leaks.

Also discovered a random hole in my back cab, just straight open to day light. Not sure what the previous owner was thinking/doing, About the size of my small finger, so I sealed that.

 

I've had my back panel off for a couple of months, with paper towels on the floor to catch water. I was able to determine in some instances the vents were leaking around the exterior perimeter. In others, they were leaking/overflowing the inner pieces. I elected to take a stab at fixing it today. I ran a bead of lexel along the inside upper flange.

I then took a roll of aluminized butyl tape, 4" wide and cut it in half. I cut two notches for the lower catches and wrapped it around the lower 3/4 or so of the vent. Basically I bent up the tape such that if anything gets into the inside it will run out. I then took a small drill bit and drilled a few small holes inside the upper and lower vent lip, so water which made it in could drain out at whichever low point it happened to be at. We will see how it holds, but I think it is better than nothing. Initially I planned to run a bead of caulking as shown, but decided I'd try this.

 

Final update. Been a few significant rain events since the "fix". I no longer see evidence of water on the metal on the sides top or below the vent, and certainly not in puddles on the floor below the vent/into the carpet. Water does appear to be running out the drain holes.

Gonna throw on the back panel, and call this saga closed.

 

Not so fast, pawtnah.

You never posted a photo of your fix described in Post #22.

Before you throw your pack panel on... we wanna see pics of what you did.

By sundown.

 

Hahaha ok because I love Clint I've attached some.

 

Here


Here are some pics of what I described above. Your truck likely will not have MLV or foam on the back wall mine does.

I did a test by visual inspection, and also left a paper towel on the floor below a vent. After some rains it was soaked bad.

I'd like to preface this by saying my original intent was to take 05-08 vents, and retrofit them in the truck as they are still stocked. AKA I didn't startout looking to redneck fix this. I learned the raised panel is different between trucks, and my idea of using panel adhesive to bond on an adjusted flange wouldn't work as I would have to cut the truck cab too. I will likely fix this correctly when/if I ever take the bed off. Thus I wanted a way to meet my goal of keeping water out of my truck.

In my case water was coming from the top edges in some areas, a side in another, or directly in through the vents itself. The important thing to realize is a sealant alone on the edges will not correct this problem. Water can still come through the vents I would assume by being deformed overtime.

I ran a bead of Lexel across the top, and down 50% of the sides. I also added a dollop in the lowest corners up against the tape, and in the top where the tape ended. Reason being lexel is permanently clear, and is very flexible. I wanted some extra security. Remainder I used butyl flashing tape to wrap around the bottom and up to the back of the truck cab wall. The ideal was to cut water and run it out. I also added various drain holes such that water which did make it in had easy access to leave to the exterior, instead of having to run out the vent flaps. Youll note I tried to curve the tape up such that if water comes in it will have slope to exit.

 

I’m gonna guess your in construction.

That looks to be a Soprema product called Soprasolin. Most of the manufacturers using a foil face SA have a waffle texture to allow for thermal cycling.

I will agree that’s a redneck fix, but hey… if it keeps the water out it’s still a fix.

In my opinion even the caulking bead I used on mine to build up the sides was redneck.

Maybe a body shop where they have lots of experience with plastic welding could build them up. However that requires getting them out of the hole.

Good job on stopping the water.

 

Wouldn't something shaped like a dryer vent cover on the outside of the back wall fix this? Use some butyl to seal it up.

 

I thought about that as well. That can easily be 3D printed as well. That is if they don't make one that sticks about 1" out. You don't have much space with the rear bed on.

 

So I am in the process of swapping seats in my 02 F350 Lariat 7.3 and upon removal of the rear seat, I see that my vents are exposed so the po must have cut out whatever it is that covers the back wall and vents. Anyhow, I noticed a frozen bead of water if you will from each vent running down the back wall. Now it appears that the leaks are coming in at the top corner of each perimeter where the foam seal has deteriorated and allowed the water to run inside. Since discovering this, I have read multiple forums on the issue and have seen that the 99-02 vents pretty much all leak and resealing them may slow down leaks but not totally eliminate them. I have seen the vents were revised in 03 or 04 due to the previous design flaws. I havent got my hands on my/another old style vent or a newer style vent to compare, but have read that the newer styles are smaller and will fall right into the 99-02 cab vent cutouts and also the 03 or 04 + cabs differ on the back wall where the new vents snap in. I also read the ideas in this thread of 3d printing. So without having either in hand, I have just been brainstorming and wondering with my cad experience and some 3d printing if it would be possible to design a filler plate the size of the old vent that snaps into the cab, and then the new style vent snaps into that? Hoping for some insight on this or possibly even designing something thats a mix between the newer style vents with some added protection angled down in front similar to the dryer vent pic, and will snap in to the current opening for older style vents. @Y2KW57 @glovemeister @F350towing