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Need some help with getting heat. Under 40 degrees the truck just runs to good to keep heat in it lol. Gauge works just fine. I dont overheat ever. I have good heat when I tow / tow heavy under 40 degrees. Just when I dont tow the truck just stays cool. For example todays trip about 50 miles one way to lowes in the mid to high 20s. ZERO heat lol. So truck blanket I think will be the quickest/easiest. Any help is greatly appreciated.
I’m also looking for a good under hood insulation for heat and noise. Would an OEM 2003-2004 Superduty be as good as anything and why do they say it’s not a fat for a 2001 excursion?
short of that it will be Dynamat extreme plus their hood pad.
another thought would be LineX. Probably not as effective as Dynamat extreme plus their hood pad.
If the thermostat is working correctly, you should have heat. May take awhile to heat up, but it should build heat.
Do you have a colder than stock thermostat?
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Thermostat works just fine. The others up top make a great suggestion on the clutch fan being stuck engaged. Just tooling around unloaded there isnt enough load on the motor to make it work. I will grab some cardboard and block the front until I get it into a heated garage and pull the clutch off of it. I will also do my lpop at that time too. Just sucks I just put new coolant in it when I did the oil cooler a year ago lol.
Clutch fan must be worn out. They make padded grill covers. Do the cooling system. Change the fan clutch.
Yea cooling system already got a new radiator a little over a year ago. Then oil cooler last Feb. Guess I will do the clutch and also the lpop when I have all that apart since it is what a extra 10 mins? lol.
Thermostat works just fine. The others up top make a great suggestion on the clutch fan being stuck engaged. Just tooling around unloaded there isnt enough load on the motor to make it work. I will grab some cardboard and block the front until I get it into a heated garage and pull the clutch off of it. I will also do my lpop at that time too. Just sucks I just put new coolant in it when I did the oil cooler a year ago lol.
What makes you think the thermostat “works just fine”?
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If you are not the original owner of this vehicle, check under the hood for a ball valve in one of the coolant lines to the heater core.
The original Ford design for the 7.3 coolant circuit allows some hot coolant to recirculate through the heater core at all times, even the operator turns the temperature setting all the way to the coldest setting, with the air conditioning on.
One modification that has "circulated" on the internet is to install a ball valve in one of the lines to the heater core, so as to completely stop the flow of coolant that would otherwise be allowed to circulate. Owners who made this modification knew what they had done, and would simply turn the ball valve on or off as required when the seasons changed.
I noticed that you joined in March, as spring began, so it seemed reasonable that if you also obtained your Excursion at the same time, entering into summer, it is entirely possible to have not noticed lack of heat until now.
Before getting too deep into suspecting that something is wrong with your truck, thoroughly investigate if the lines to the heater core were modified.
Besides a ball valve, another modification that folks have done is to install a four way heater valve from a Ford Ranger, that is vacuum actuated.
Finally, even Ford eventually installed a vacuum valve (but only a 2 way) on one of the heater lines in the Excursion, and all of the Super Duties after 2002. Ford's OEM valve still does not completely restrict that passage of hot coolant to the heater core, unlike the modifications that owners have installed from the aftermarket.
What makes you think the thermostat “works just fine”?
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I know it works just fine as I towed 12k pounds back from FL to new york in oct and it didnt overheat. I used to have overheating issues before the radiator pulling mountains with weight out west.
If you are not the original owner of this vehicle, check under the hood for a ball valve in one of the coolant lines to the heater core.
The original Ford design for the 7.3 coolant circuit allows some hot coolant to recirculate through the heater core at all times, even the operator turns the temperature setting all the way to the coldest setting, with the air conditioning on.
One modification that has "circulated" on the internet is to install a ball valve in one of the lines to the heater core, so as to completely stop the flow of coolant that would otherwise be allowed to circulate. Owners who made this modification knew what they had done, and would simply turn the ball valve on or off as required when the seasons changed.
I noticed that you joined in March, as spring began, so it seemed reasonable that if you also obtained your Excursion at the same time, entering into summer, it is entirely possible to have not noticed lack of heat until now.
Before getting too deep into suspecting that something is wrong with your truck, thoroughly investigate if the lines to the heater core were modified.
Besides a ball valve, another modification that folks have done is to install a four way heater valve from a Ford Ranger, that is vacuum actuated.
Finally, even Ford eventually installed a vacuum valve (but only a 2 way) on one of the heater lines in the Excursion, and all of the Super Duties after 2002. Ford's OEM valve still does not completely restrict that passage of hot coolant to the heater core, unlike the modifications that owners have installed from the aftermarket.
I have had the truck since 2011. I have put almost 300k miles on it. There is the valve and I have never had this issue before. I had it in IL for 4yrs so it saw cold weather. Like the others have said up top it makes the most sense that the fan clutch went and it is stuck on.
I towed last week from con to new york thru the moutains and it was 25 degrees out and snowing. I had perfect heat with the trailer loaded.
I know it works just fine as I towed 12k pounds back from FL to new york in oct and it didnt overheat. I used to have overheating issues before the radiator pulling mountains with weight out west.
If the thermostat fails open, like most are designed to do now, then the engine won’t overheat ever, it will however, never build heat in cold because it never stops the coolant flow to the radiator .
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If the thermostat fails open, like most are designed to do now, then the engine won’t overheat ever, it will however, never build heat in cold because it never stops the coolant flow to the radiator .
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Yea and it builds/holds it just fine with a load. So I will be tossing some cardboard in the radiator until I can get in to fix it. I am driving to IL tm late or early friday morning so a little heat before the sun comes up would be much appreciated lol.
Yea and it builds/holds it just fine with a load. So I will be tossing some cardboard in the radiator until I can get in to fix it. I am driving to IL tm late or early friday morning so a little heat before the sun comes up would be much appreciated lol.