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I have been hesitant to post and not waste yall's time, but I'm stuck and cannot find advice on direction.
Picked up a 85 F150, Inline 6, carburated, 2x4, Standard transmission. Story goes previous owner had it running and let it sit for years (classic story). My son and I were looking for a project to learn on and this seemed interesting. I have slowly been going through it addressing problems and ruling issues out. So far I have, replaced carb, replaced fuel filter, replaced plugs, distributor cap, fuel pump, ignition selenoid, ICM on distributor and battery. I have checked to make sure the accelerator pump is working properly and checked the timing.
Previous owner had the belt off the smog pump and there was a nest of random hoses and wires all in the engine compartment, I have done my best to follow the manual and vacuum line diagram to troubleshoot. Not concerned with emissions and I am not sure what actually needs to stay and what needs to go.
So here is where we are at: It starts and idles but any throttle causes it to bog down and it has no power. A little fuel down the carb barrel with throttle does not change anything.
I am enjoying the process of learning and would appreciate any feedback and assistance. I have uploaded pics of the engine bay and also a video of what it sounds like. Thank you so much!
Welcome, you've come to the right place. There are a few guy's on here that know these trucks inside out. They will chime in soon.
I'll say your missing the connector for that thermal switch on the heater core supply fitting off the head.
Also, let me be the first to tell you replace those crappy battery terminals...they will cause nothing but problems in the future. Your battery cable should look like this, NAPA well have the correct cables.
Next thing we've learned is don't buy the cheapest part from the on-line place, only buy the better quality parts from a trusted local auto parts store. Build a relationship with the guys at the counter.
Your replacement list did not include the plug wires. Pulling them to replace plugs, if not carefully done can cause disruption of spark voltage. Unless you know they are good then replace, and replace every 20 thousand miles. I'll listen to your video now...
Man I wished you came to us before buying that carb and the ICM as it was wasted money when it should have been replaced with non-feed back parts if you cont have to do smog check and I am guessing you dont.
Check the timing.
You will need to pull the sprot sp? jumper so the computer is not trying to adjust it when checking.
I am also going to say I bet the timing is not adjusting as the vacuum and other wiring for the feed back system is missing so it would be in limp home mode.
A non-feed back carb and dist with a vacuum can you can then remove any of the feed back system, again if you dont have smog.
Dave ----
edit: dose the truck still have a cat installed?
What is the vacuum reading at idle when up to temp?
Then bring the RPM easy to about 2500 RPM and what dose it read then?
Forgive me, I am not sure if it has the catalytic converter, but the exhaust looks original so I would assume it does if it came from the factory...?
I do not have the tool to check vacuum.
Something I did notice when I was timing it, regardless if the plug from distributor being plugged in or not (the one you remove to time it) the engine performs the same, ie I do not see a change in the timing mark when I give it throttle. Not sure if that is applicable.... but it sounds like you were describing that in your post Fuzz.
Are you looking to eliminate the computer control? I'm seeing missing wiring so that would be your best bet. As stated, that looks like a feedback carb and distributor. Wrong one if you are eliminating the computer. If your goal is to get it running with the computer, you have to have all your sensors and smog control devices working properly or the computer will start throwing error codes. Better question, do you need to pass a smog test that requires the original smog system intact.
The great state of Texas does not require emission laws on this vehicle. Sounds like that is my best bet, get an HEI distributor and call it good? I would prefer ditching the cobweb of hoses/wires too.
Ran across this video, he is using the carb that I have....could it really be this simple?!!
Seems the Carter YFA and YA carbs are similar. There might be a way to rebuild your YFA into a YA. Maybe somebody has done that instead of getting the ebay knock off?
Here's parts lists, diagrams and shop rebuild manual over on Gary's site :
The biggest thing is to swap the distributor out, a HEI is the easy way to go.
You can keep your carb and see how it runs from there.
You can pick up a vacuum gauge cheap at HF and comes in handy when tuning the carb.
Dave ----
I have run the feedback carb with a distributor swap. It runs fine, but gets lousy fuel mileage. So if you want to keep the carb you have now, and do it one step at a time you can.
I say "lousy" fuel mileage, but it's down about 2-3mpg. That is what I gained when I finally swapped to a regular carb. I ran the first edition for about a year.
replaced the distributor with hei, same exact problems. Super frustrated, someone suggested it could be a clogged cat converter. Out of desperation I drilled 4 3/8” holes in the tailpipe before the converter. Truck fired right up with no issues whatsoever! Idles better and actually drives- go figure. New exhaust now on the list….
You did not waste your money on the distributor. After you get the exhaust fixed, you can start cleaning up underneath the hood and get rid of all those wires and sensors under there you do not need anymore.
replaced the distributor with hei, same exact problems. Super frustrated, someone suggested it could be a clogged cat converter. Out of desperation I drilled 4 3/8” holes in the tailpipe before the converter. Truck fired right up with no issues whatsoever! Idles better and actually drives- go figure. New exhaust now on the list….
Good to hear you found the issue.
I think I said to use a vacuum gauge and raise the RPM up to about 2500 and hold it that and see what the reading was.
If the EXH was good the vacuum reading would come back up to what it was at idle.
If you dont have smog check then dont put the cat back on.
I am running EFI EXH manifolds and a full 94 EXH system as the pipes are bigger than the 80's pipes.
Dave ----
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