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Well my 1999 just got it running in who knows how long has a really hard time starting it’s 70 outside when It does it starts for a second idles up to 1k rpm’s then dies I have to put my foot to the floor for it not to die when it starts then with my foot still to the floor it just sits there and lopes for a while sounds not great then as it starts to warm up I can watch my rpm’s slowly rise up from 500 rpm’s slowly to 1k then past 1k rpm’s I let off the throttle and it dies so I start to back and the throttle works again but will still die if I let off so I hold it around 1.5k for a minute or two then it’s fine and idles great had this problem for 3 days in a row now , I have a small fuel leak that’s coming from the fuel bowl drain hose any help appreciated thanks
I feel like we just had a similar thread start on this.
I've had a similar experience but that was many years ago and i do not remember all the details or fix. I want to say this is a case of the romps or whatever they used to call it.
right off the top of my head, I can't think of what it is.
even though it's 70 deg, you should test the glow plug relay and glowplugs.
Do you have a chip or any upgrades/ mods done? you may have to have a way to read your system...forescan/ auto engenuity, etc. we need to be able to see whats going on.
you may want to search hard start threads or romps on various forums as well
I feel like we just had a similar thread start on this.
I've had a similar experience but that was many years ago and i do not remember all the details or fix. I want to say this is a case of the romps or whatever they used to call it.
right off the top of my head, I can't think of what it is.
even though it's 70 deg, you should test the glow plug relay and glowplugs.
Do you have a chip or any upgrades/ mods done? you may have to have a way to read your system...forescan/ auto engenuity, etc. we need to be able to see whats going on.
you may want to search hard start threads or romps on various forums as well
I checked the glow plug relays I think I am getting 10 or 11 volts there when key is turned also can physically feel it switch on I have the banks 6 gun tuner which connects to the icp and the map I can connect to it with forscan soon
Yeah we need to see what's happening with ICP, IPR DC%,EOT, IAT, MAP, EBP, BARO, FIPW, APP, and Idle validation. Knowing the fuel pressure never hurts either. What's the fuel level, Hutch mod already done? You said it's not run for quite a while what's the story there? Could have some connecting threads.
Yeah we need to see what's happening with ICP, IPR DC%,EOT, IAT, MAP, EBP, BARO, FIPW, APP, and Idle validation. Knowing the fuel pressure never hurts either. What's the fuel level, Hutch mod already done? You said it's not run for quite a while what's the story there? Could have some connecting threads.
I don’t know what the hutch mod is so and I am not sure how long it has not run for I got it in a trade and put a new pcm in it and replaced a few things and it was working
Here's a write up from the tech section showing what and how the Hutch mod is done. The second link shows how to rig up a test gauge for fuel pressure. A simple check to find out if you do have air in fuel problems is to hook a hose to the drain valve and point it into a bucket. the cycle the key and see what comes out. Did you put fresh fuel in the tank and change all the filters? With the lack of history on the truck that would be a priority. The 2 most important things to keeping these engines alive is regular oil changes w/ approved oil and clean fuel at the correct pressure.
This is after I got it to idle good I just realized that you probably needed it while it was in the problem sorry
Actually the best method is to save the file. Then you can load it here and we can go over it line by line, or when you get really fancy there is a charting tool up in the stickies section that is free to download. You can load the file in the program and it converts the spreadsheet data in to a linear graph that is pretty snazzy. This is fine for now though. I'm guessing you have a problem with the ICP sensor or it's wiring. Those numbers it's reporting in your pic. They are the default pressures the PCM uses when it's not getting anything from the sensor or it decides the sensor is wrong and disregards it. You can try unhooking the sensor and try starting it. That will take it out of the equation and the PCM won't be struggling through bad data.
I'm guessing you have a problem with the ICP sensor or it's wiring. Those numbers it's reporting in your pic. They are the default pressures the PCM uses when it's not getting anything from the sensor or it decides the sensor is wrong and disregards it. You can try unhooking the sensor and try starting it. That will take it out of the equation and the PCM won't be struggling through bad data.
I second this.
My first thought was a bad IPR but after seeing your screenshot it seems the ICP may be bad. It needs addressed first and may correct the issue.
Only purchase Motorcraft through a reputable seller. Amazon/eBay has way too many convincing fakes.
But try it disconnected first before buying any parts.
I should have also mentioned for your fuel bowl leak issue. Diesel o-rings has parts/ kits to fix that.
If you end up needing any sensors/ parts depending on what you find the issue to be. Diesel o-rings or riffraff is where i get most of my stuff but there are other reputable places as well.
I don't think it's been asked or provided, but are you getting any codes at all
I should have also mentioned for your fuel bowl leak issue. Diesel o-rings has parts/ kits to fix that.
If you end up needing any sensors/ parts depending on what you find the issue to be. Diesel o-rings or riffraff is where i get most of my stuff but there are other reputable places as well.
I don't think it's been asked or provided, but are you getting any codes at all
yes I am getting codes for high or low icp and I think exhaust back pressure
yes I am getting codes for high or low icp and I think exhaust back pressure
Probably should have lead with this. What are the codes you currently have exactly? Are they recurring, meaning after clearing/resetting the codes do all of them come back in a relatively short amount of time? Have you attempted to start the truck with the ICP sensor disconnected yet?
I would start by disconnecting the Banks tuner since that is hooked into the ICP and could be your issue.
The first day I had it completely stock and it still gave me the code and did not like to start after warm it ran great so I thought the truck was good so hooked it up and now it’s every time I try to start it
Probably should have lead with this. What are the codes you currently have exactly? Are they recurring, meaning after clearing/resetting the codes do all of them come back in a relatively short amount of time? Have you attempted to start the truck with the ICP sensor disconnected yet?
I am not sure what the codes are exactly I scanned them yesterday and did not save them but yes they are recurring and I was going to start it with it unplugged today
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