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Hello, I’ve been dailying my idi for about 3 weeks now and it’s the last three days it has had overheating issues. I’ve replaced the thermostat twice and it didn’t fix the problem. Does anyone know a way to test the water pump? Or are there any other issues it could be having?
What thermostat did you use? Generally speaking the only recommended thermostat is the OEM Motorcraft one. Aftermarket ones do not fit well and cause overheating.
Water pumps on these use metal impellers and as far as I know, only tend to fail by leaking/bearing failure.
How does the radiator look?
Describe why you think its overheating? Its possible the sensor crapped out as well.
Looks like the correct part number to me. RockAuto is useful for verifying part numbers as they often list all the Ford part numbers in the "Info" dialog box for a given part.
Like this for instance, https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=2200&jsn=555
Hello, I’ve been dailying my idi for about 3 weeks now and it’s the last three days it has had overheating issues. I’ve replaced the thermostat twice and it didn’t fix the problem. Does anyone know a way to test the water pump? Or are there any other issues it could be having?
What are your symptoms? Are you really overheating or is just a dummy light saying you are?
Although @luka86idi posted just yesterday. I wonder if he's having overheating issues? Also, does the engine die and the radiator blow its cap, or do you just think it's running hot because of the dummy gauge?
Oh I didn't see it was an old thread with someone new looking for a t-stat haha. Yup, that's the correct and only t-stat to use in our trucks. Never use a parts store t-stat.
@Olds64 I'm not exactly having overheating issues, but my normal operating range according to the dummy temp gauge (I know, I know, get a proper gauge) is at the end of the M beginning of the A. So I guess I'm maybe trying to get ahead of an issue, or maybe that's just perfectly fine, don't know. So I figured I'd start with a coolant system flush and replace the thermostat while I'm at it. Attaching picture below, but it's at an angel, so doesn't quite show what the gauge shows when looking at it head on (as mentioned, end of M beginning of A).
Yeah, you'd be be better served to spend the same $ you're about to spend (or less) on a real temp gauge. That factory thing doesn't mean much. You could still be running 200F or less with a real gauge. I think the 6.9's run even cooler than the 7.3's iirc. It might not be until reading on the L that it's even flirting with the t-stat being fully open, you have no way of knowing. The only thing that's good for is giving you worry, not information.
If your truck hasn't overheated I'd start by getting a good temperature gauge. You can even use an IR thermometer to take the temp of the engine at the thermostat housing.
Your stock guage is indicating properly for operating temp. From about mid NORMAL to the L is only about 5 degrees or so. Check it with an IR temperature gun. Shoot the freeze plug on the head or the temp sender itself.
Thanks @FORDF250HDXLT@Olds64 . I'm going to get a proper gauge. Dumb question. I see gauges that are labeled "Coolant Temp" and some "Oil Temp". Which one am I going for here? Also, I assume I will need to splice into the current thermostat wire?
The oil gauge is for pressure. If you buy an aftermarket coolant temperature gauge it will have a sending unit that you can add to the engine. I put mine in the port on top of the water pump.
You will not need to splice into the existing wire for the dash gauge. You have two basic options in gauges--electric or mechanical. 7 years ago or so I installed a $30 Equus Mechanical coolant temp gauge and it has worked great. The mechanical gauges are nice and simple but you do have to be a little careful with the capillary tube that connects the gauge to the probe. Electric gauges are fine too but you will have to tap into a "key on" power source in the cab, however the gauge will have its own wire connecting the probe to the gauge itself so the factory wire is not used at all. I'm sure you can find something affordable between Autometer and Isspro. And take time to figure out a safe and easy point to route the new wires through the firewall. If you have to drill a new hole be sure to install a grommet to cover any sharp edges.
It really is so much better to have a numerical value instead of the "Normal" spectrum. I seem to cruise at 185F and even when pushing hard up a hill I can't seem to top 215F-220F. If you want to keep your dash gauge working there should be a second sending unit lower down on the driver side of the engine that is for the "Overheat" light in the dash, at least there is on my 7.3.
