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Hi everyone. My fuel gage stopped working about 2 years ago in my 61 F-100, and I finally got around to getting a sending unit for it. It's an Auto Metal Direct, which ran me about $50. I put it in and even with a full tank, it only reads to about 3 quarters of a tank. I took it out and tried moving the arm by hand, and it's the same. If the fuel drops a little bit, it reads less than a quarter or empty. I checked the ground, and it was good. I even tried running a new ground, and that didn't help either. The test light lit up when I tried that as well, so it's getting power. Was just wanting to know thoughts before I try and take it back to return it to NAPA.
Hi everyone. My fuel gage stopped working about 2 years ago in my 61 F-100, and I finally got around to getting a sending unit for it. It's an Auto Metal Direct, which ran me about $50. I put it in and even with a full tank, it only reads to about 3 quarters of a tank. I took it out and tried moving the arm by hand, and it's the same. If the fuel drops a little bit, it reads less than a quarter or empty. I checked the ground, and it was good. I even tried running a new ground, and that didn't help either. The test light lit up when I tried that as well, so it's getting power. Was just wanting to know thoughts before I try and take it back to return it to NAPA.
Before returning it I had similar problems years ago and I bought an aftermarket under dash fuel gauge. It worked so well that I wired it up neatly and left it. Make sure you get the correct ohms gauge for your Ford. It could also be something as simple as a dirty gauge preventing the needle to do a full sweep. It gets dirty back there!
Maybe you have a buddy that knows how, or The U Tube may be your friend.
There are 2 more things that can/may cause your issue. My '62 would only read just over 3/4 with a very full tank.
I replaced the voltage regulator for the DASH because my old one tested like it was shot. Didn't fix the fuel gauge.
Pulled the gauge wire and grounded it to the tank, full tank.
Pulled the sender and tested it. Found that it would not read correctly for a full tank. Also while it was out I grounded it and hooked up the gauge wire and moved the float, still 3/4. Hmmmm??
Noticed there was a stop that would keep the wire for the float from moving anymore. Noticed I could carefully bend it. Tried just a touch, gauge showed a bit higher, after a few more touches, the gauge reads full when full. I do not know if this will help you or not.
I do find it odd that the wire and float may have never let the gauge read full when it left the factory???
I have a voltage meter, but no idea how to use it. Electrical stuff just goes right over my head.
You need to learn how to use that meter it is your friend when you have electrical problems. Here is a link to one of many old threads concerning the gauges.
If your other gauges are working correctly the test will tell whether you have a bad gauge or bad sender. Fuel gauge issue - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums (ford-trucks.com)
Maybe you have a buddy that knows how, or The U Tube may be your friend.
There are 2 more things that can/may cause your issue. My '62 would only read just over 3/4 with a very full tank.
I replaced the voltage regulator for the DASH because my old one tested like it was shot. Didn't fix the fuel gauge.
Pulled the gauge wire and grounded it to the tank, full tank.
Pulled the sender and tested it. Found that it would not read correctly for a full tank. Also while it was out I grounded it and hooked up the gauge wire and moved the float, still 3/4. Hmmmm??
Noticed there was a stop that would keep the wire for the float from moving anymore. Noticed I could carefully bend it. Tried just a touch, gauge showed a bit higher, after a few more touches, the gauge reads full when full. I do not know if this will help you or not.
I do find it odd that the wire and float may have never let the gauge read full when it left the factory???
Tom
That is interesting. I really didn't think about trying to adjust the full stop. I'd have to see, because it seems like it it's just barely, and I mean just barely drops, it goes from 3 quarters to nearly empty. I'll give that a try tomorrow.
So if your saying that with a "full tank at the gas station pump" and you squeezed all you can into it. The gauge reads 3/4. Then you drive 5 or 10 miles and it reads nearly empty. I would think the sender is bad. I just brought up an issue that I had. My gauge always went down smoothly while driving 100 miles, it DID NOT just drop off to empty..
You would need to hook up a volt meter set to ohms to the sender and check the ohms for the correct readings per the manual. You could have a defective sender.
If the ohms test is not possible, then just get an exchange and see what happens. Just make sure that you did get the correct sender and the correct exchange.
Best of luck and please let us know what happens!
Tom
I just wanted to make sure..... If you fill up the tank and it reads 3/4, then you drive it 10 miles and it reads nearly empty. Now you go back to the gas station and fill it up again. What does it take, should be about 1 gallon or less.
If it takes like 10 gallons, then you have a major fuel leak somewhere. You should smell it and see it on the ground or at least the crank case would be WAY over full.
I wanted to add this in a separate post so it didn't get lost in a long post.
Your gauge could be bad. The simple test for a gauge is to ground the wire to the sender. The gas gauge should read full. It it reads anything else, it would likely be bad.
I would think the manual also has a gauge test.
You really need to test then sender, at least to me that is the most likely suspect.
There are people here with WAY more expertise in this than I am. I hope one of them would add to this. Cropduster did, by saying you need to learn how to use the volt meter and a link to testing your issue.
Hope you get this solved and it just a faulty sender
Tom
If your sender has corrosion on it That is a problem that you can fix with a a light sand with some 120 wet & dry. The sender is nothing more than a rheostat that changes ohmic value. If your gauge changes dramatically there is a dead spot in the rheostat. Time to clean it up or replace it.
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So if your saying that with a "full tank at the gas station pump" and you squeezed all you can into it. The gauge reads 3/4. Then you drive 5 or 10 miles and it reads nearly empty. I would think the sender is bad. I just brought up an issue that I had. My gauge always went down smoothly while driving 100 miles, it DID NOT just drop off to empty..
You would need to hook up a volt meter set to ohms to the sender and check the ohms for the correct readings per the manual. You could have a defective sender.
If the ohms test is not possible, then just get an exchange and see what happens. Just make sure that you did get the correct sender and the correct exchange.
Best of luck and please let us know what happens!
Tom
That's exactly what it does. Sadly, I have no idea how to use a voltage meter. I have one, but I'm not smart enough to figure it out. Tried watching videos and it just didn't make sense with all the symbols and morse code.
I'm not sure if I can even return it to NAPA since it was a special order from Summit Racing.
I watched a quick tutorial and I think I got the voltage meter set up right. I put the red probe on the post with the wire going to the gauge, and the black probe on the post with the ground wire and it was showing 2 (ohms, I'm guessing?) Does that sound right to you?
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