piss-ant bleeder screws
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: northwestern missouri
****-ant bleeder screws
ok on my 78 f-150 4x4 i just bought it and well lets just say the braking system on it really blows.kind of sucks trying to stop a set of 35/12.50's at any speed with no brakes. front brakes are ok line and pad wise. but the rear is another story. but to make a long story short i replaced all the lines from master cylinder back to wheel cylinders now i need to bleed the system and the bleeder screws are rusted tight! have tried soaking them w/penatrating spray no luck any sugestions?? any help is much appreciated....thanks
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Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Cleveland, WI USA
I have the same truck and had the same problem. I ended up taking the cylinders off of the baking plate and removing the inerts. I put it in a vice and used a small torch to heat the bleeder, and cooled it by dumping water on it. I also used PB blaster a few times. I repeted this process until it came loose.
Just make sure you use a good 6 pt. socket so you don't strip the head off it. A small 1/4" drive works well and will help prevent snaping the thing off. Once it's out, clean the threads REALLY good and throw a little grease on it to prevent it from rusting up again.
You could also tap lightly on it with a small hammer to try to loosen it. Just don't wack it too hard.
Kevin K.
Just make sure you use a good 6 pt. socket so you don't strip the head off it. A small 1/4" drive works well and will help prevent snaping the thing off. Once it's out, clean the threads REALLY good and throw a little grease on it to prevent it from rusting up again.
You could also tap lightly on it with a small hammer to try to loosen it. Just don't wack it too hard.
Kevin K.
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Not trying to be a wise-guy, but why even mess with old wheel cylinders? No telling what kind of shape they are in internally. New ones are dirt cheap and readily available at local parts stores.
To me, I want those brakes in 100% shape
To me, I want those brakes in 100% shape
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: northwestern missouri
i appreciate the info the mor i think about it i will probly go with new wheel cylinders due my being a ******* and being impatient and prettymuch rounding off the heads on the bleeder screws
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From: Cleveland, WI USA
I agree that they are cheap and easy to find, but when you have more time than money...
Mine were in pretty good shape, too. With 35s, I can still lock all 4 wheels up on pavement.
Kevin K.
Mine were in pretty good shape, too. With 35s, I can still lock all 4 wheels up on pavement.
Kevin K.
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Do not put grease on the threads, if any of that grease gets inside the wheel cylinders it can cause serious prblems.
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From: northwestern missouri
i appreciate all of the info kind of a bad deal i got into guess i should have had the guy fix it before i bought the truck but it dont really matter its a "project" thats what i bought it for so its going to snow this weekend so it looks like its going to be me the trusty carhart coveralls and the cold fixing the truck...sounds like fun dont it...wish me luck..and not somuch frostbite
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From: lino lakes, mn
spend the $35.00 on wheel cylinders and a couple hours doing the rear brakes right unless you do a lot of highspeed hard stops rear discs on a pickup are a waste you dont have the weight to use the stoping power they have available and will skid the rear besides you need darn near a whole new brake system to make them work
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Joined: Feb 2002
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From: East Bend, Carolina, U.S
Plowpusher is right on target. Your truck has a disadvantage in the rear for maximizing the extra stopping power of the disc brakes. You should entertain the idea of updating the brake drums and brake shoes to some semi metallic newer ones since this will maximize the system you already have. I guess you may have already done this.
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From: northwestern missouri
yea rhunt got the semi metallic shoes....plowpusher damn 35.00 someone is raping you for parts i paid 17.00 i think for new pass and driver side wheel cylinders. but i do appreciate the info on the rear disc set up.
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Northshore, MN
I just read about them in the four-wheeler and petersen's 4wheel and offroad mags now and then. In the back is where you see Tsm's ad. With the 4 wheel disc set-up you have to disable the proportioning valve in order to put even pressure to all 4 wheels.if you wanna go all the way there is a good brake upgrade article in the tech section of this website. I should also mention my truck with 36x14.5 ground hawg radials stopped with the drum rears, but I wore them faster than usual. good luck.
I should also make note that most brand new trucks have 4 wheel discs now.
Please note, -you can edit your own posts for up to an hour after you make them! -Admin
I should also make note that most brand new trucks have 4 wheel discs now.
Please note, -you can edit your own posts for up to an hour after you make them! -Admin
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Drum brakes work fine on the rear. The disk brake e-brake system is a PITA.
Use Performance Friction carbon-metalic brake pads for the best brake performance. I don't use anything but PF pads anymore. You can buy them at Auto Zone.
Use Performance Friction carbon-metalic brake pads for the best brake performance. I don't use anything but PF pads anymore. You can buy them at Auto Zone.
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