I have a 77 HD 4X4 F250 that I had to put a new master cylinder on. That went on with no problem, but when I went to bleed the brakes things got interesting. I understand that you are supposed to start with the wheel farthest from the MC, well it just so happens that something has snapped of the bleeder screw on that wheel. So either I need to replace the bleeder screw on the wheel cylinder or come up with plan B. I have been considering buying one of those one man mechanical bleeder pumps. Are there any other ways to bleed the brakes? What happens if you dont bleed one wheel? I am just looking for any advice and/or ideas. Thanks

 

Is the bleeder screw in the rear leaking? Or will it just not open up at all?
If they're old, I'd recommend you just replace both of the wheel cylinders in your rear drums, they're inexpensive (I think $10-15 each) and extremely easy to replace.
If they're relatively new, just replace the bleeder screw.
Brakes really aren't something you want to slack on, so you might as well do it right the first time.

 

Yep Yep what he said. Do it right. If you leave one brake unbled you have a good chance of having air in your system. Might as well bite the bullet and solve the little problem now before it bits you as a big problem.

 

Exactly! Just bite the bullet and replace your wheel cylinders. Those one man bleeder pumps work alright but if you have access to a pressure bleeder, that is the way to go.

 

$10-$15 ?

I thought calipers were that price.

Up here I just got 2 wheel cylinders for $8.00 CDN each

These brake related parts don't last forever..always do it right the first time.

I don't fool with brakes... I just make sure they are optimal always.

 

$10 or $15 last time I did mine, and everywhere seems to want $50-$70 for dual piston calipers...
Mil1ion, if you know of a cheaper place to order calipers, please let me know, need to replace my fronts...

 

check with www.rockauto.com

 

I figured as much, and you all are right I do not want to short change the brakes. When I pulled the wheel off I got a bit discouraged to find out that I had to undo more bolts to get the drum off, I was looking for an easy out. Sad but true.. Thanks to all.

 

being an F250, you will want to replace the hub seals on the back of the drums and check the wheel bearings on that full-floating axle as well. You will need a special socket to properly torque down the axle nut when you are done. Someone used a chisel on mine last time and made a mess of it. I had to do one side on my F250 a few months ago. The hub seal blew and it puked gear oil all over the place. It quickly soaked and ruined the brake shoes. After taking it apart I found the bearings were shot too. They make gaskets for the axle end caps, but I always just use RTV and let it set up overnight. All the parts you need should be cheap. I've been amazed with the price and availability of parts for my '77 F250 through O'reilly and Autozone. Everything has been in-stock and the prices have been great.

 

So I have been looking over manuals on the procedures that MintFord told me about, and it seems that I me making this harder than it has to be. From what I have read, it appears to be a little in depth getting the rear drum off, what with hub seals, axle shafts and special tools. If anyone has some details that they could pass on to me so I can better wrap my mind around this project before I start pulling stuff off, that would be a big help. Also what is the story on the special socket? How much is it, and where can I get it? Thanks

 

There are numerous how to get the drum off a Dana axle threads in the drivetrain forum

 

To service the rear brakes is actually not as hard as it seems. You have a full floating axle assembly.
The easy way to understand how to remove the drums:
-Remove the rear wheel that you will be working on. If you only raise the wheel you are working on, it will be less mess.
-Remove the bolts holding the axle flange to the hub and slide the axle out. (having only one wheel raised will keep most of the diff lube from leaking out.)
-The "special socket" is a 2-9/16" socket that you should be able to borrow, rent or buy from any local parts place.
-Using a flat screw driver and a small hammer, tap back the retainer ring tabs to let the outer spindle retainer nut rotate.
-Remove the first spindle retainer nut with the 2-9/16" socket. Remove the locking ring (this looks like a washer with tabs on the outside that keeps the retainer nuts from loosening. It should just slide out. Flatten the remaining bent tabs.)
-Remove the second retainer nut with the 2-9/16" socket and the hub/drum assembly will slide off of the spindle. After that it just a normal set of drum brakes.
-Install the hub/drrum assembly in reverse order.

Make sure to torque the retainer nuts to the proper torque and bend the tabs on the retainer locking ring (funny looking washer thing).

You can replace the hub seal on the back of the hub while you have the hub/drum assembly off and you can just use permatex to seal the axle flange to the hub.

If you have ever taken the front rotor of a 4 wheel drive truck, this is kinda like that except no locking hub assembly to deal with.

 

That is a big help. Thanks! I am so glad that I have found this forum! I dont really have anyone that I can ask some of the questions, so this is a great forum. I will be tackling this project this coming weekend. I will be reporting back I am sure.

 

Your welcome! Please do let us know how it goes. Good luck!

 

So I just wanted to thank everyone for their advice and information. It has been soooo hot where I am that I have avoided the outdoors like the plague, also I work outside for a living so my off time has involved AC and no lights...anyway I wound up bleeding the brakes on my 250. I was so much not looking forward to replacing the axle seals and wheel cylinders on the rear of my 250 that I wound up bleeding the brakes from the line fitting. I know, I know not the right way to do it, but it worked and today was the first test drive of my truck ever. Which will lead me to my next post....