2011 Ford F350 6.7L diesel automatic
Tuned and Deleted

1.) Shortly after purchase a few weeks ago, I noticed it shifting very hard in lower gears, mainly when slow rolling. If I’m into the gas, it’s not as bad… or on downshifting, if I’m into the brakes it’s not that bad. When slowly accelerating or decelerating… At shifting, it feels like you got rear ended at times it shifts so hard.

2.) last week I noticed it shifting harder than normal and then my check engine light came on. I pulled over and checked the diag codes from my tuner and got:
A. P0884 - TCM power input signal intermittent
B. P007C - charge air cooler temperature sensor circuit low bank 1
C. P0181 - fuel temperature sensor A circuit range/performance

I immediately dropped it off at a local transmission shop. He called me the next day and said it was probably electrical and that he didn’t think it was a big deal. He cleared the codes and said I should just deal with the hard shifting.

3.) Check engine light came in again a few days later. This time the code was only:
B. P007C - charge air cooler temperature sensor circuit low bank 1
I drive it on home and cleared the code again.

4.) Then next morning, the truck wouldn’t start, 100% dead batteries. I assumed I left a light on so jumped it and it started up. I left it running for a while, shut it off, and it started right back up… however, I notice that my seats would no longer work, nor did my electronic running boards.

5.) The next morning, the batteries were again 100% dead.

I’ve read many posts online that majority of the issues above (or maybe all of them) could be due to bad batteries, but they have stickers on both of them from the same month and year… last year. Since they are newer, I’m doubting that is the real issue.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

Many auto parts stores will test batteries for free. Take one out and FULLY charge it and then have it tested. Lather, rinse and repeat. Battery life depends on how it was treated more than its age, repeated discharging will kill them.

 

Thanks, went to Oreilly yesterday and they tested both batteries and also the alternator and all 3 tested completely fine.

 

did they or you remove at least 1 cable from 1 battery?
if not the batteries were not tested.

 

If your still looking for advice, I'd remove the batteries, then take them back and ask for a load test.

 

My wonderful dealer didn't know any better than that and thought it wasn't necessary when I questioned his work.