Flooded engine in 1996 Ford Econoline 150 5.8 v8
#17
No sparks
It's just cranking as I test and there's no sparks being produced. I also should mention I changed out 3 of my fuses as they were producing 0 volts. Replaced them and they are still reading at 0?
While do spark plug test, after it turned off I was hearing a vibration. Like the ignition coil was humming? Please help I've been stuck and stranded :/
While do spark plug test, after it turned off I was hearing a vibration. Like the ignition coil was humming? Please help I've been stuck and stranded :/
#18
#19
The distributor cap is the item that all of the spark plug wires and coil wire plug into.
The distributor rotor is below the cap inside of the distributor. (see photo of cap and rotor)
As the engine turns, the rotor turns as well. The rotation of the rotor is timed so it directs the spark current from the coil to the correct spark plug at the correct time.
The way to do this is to take a wire off of a spark plug and put a screwdriver into the wire end where is would plug onto the spark plug. Hold the screwdriver (by the insulated handle!) so it's close to but not touching metal on the engine. Then crank the engine and watch the gap between the screwdriver and the metal. You should see a small spark. You are basically recreating the spark plug gap.
If there is no spark there, you can do the same test with the coil wire. There you would remove the coil wire from the distributor cap and do the same test.
Let us know...
The distributor rotor is below the cap inside of the distributor. (see photo of cap and rotor)
As the engine turns, the rotor turns as well. The rotation of the rotor is timed so it directs the spark current from the coil to the correct spark plug at the correct time.
The way to do this is to take a wire off of a spark plug and put a screwdriver into the wire end where is would plug onto the spark plug. Hold the screwdriver (by the insulated handle!) so it's close to but not touching metal on the engine. Then crank the engine and watch the gap between the screwdriver and the metal. You should see a small spark. You are basically recreating the spark plug gap.
If there is no spark there, you can do the same test with the coil wire. There you would remove the coil wire from the distributor cap and do the same test.
Let us know...
Now if there is a spark, would it be spark plug issue or something else going on?
#20
If you have spark at the plug wire, it could be the spark plugs themselves but, since you changed them, that's unlikely.
The next step is to test for fuel pressure. The right way to do this is with a pressure gauge (see the second video in post #7). Another (less safe) way to get a rough test is to take the cap off the Schraeder valve (location shown in that video). The Schraeder valve looks like an oversized tire valve. Turn the key ON (no need to crank the engine) and press lightly on the pin in the center of the Schraeder valve. BE CAREFUL - It should spit gas at you. If there's no fuel pressure you need to get into diagnosing why. If there is pressure there, I'm afraid I've run out of ideas that can be done via the internet...
The next step is to test for fuel pressure. The right way to do this is with a pressure gauge (see the second video in post #7). Another (less safe) way to get a rough test is to take the cap off the Schraeder valve (location shown in that video). The Schraeder valve looks like an oversized tire valve. Turn the key ON (no need to crank the engine) and press lightly on the pin in the center of the Schraeder valve. BE CAREFUL - It should spit gas at you. If there's no fuel pressure you need to get into diagnosing why. If there is pressure there, I'm afraid I've run out of ideas that can be done via the internet...
#21
If you have spark at the plug wire, it could be the spark plugs themselves but, since you changed them, that's unlikely.
The next step is to test for fuel pressure. The right way to do this is with a pressure gauge (see the second video in post #7). Another (less safe) way to get a rough test is to take the cap off the Schraeder valve (location shown in that video). The Schraeder valve looks like an oversized tire valve. Turn the key ON (no need to crank the engine) and press lightly on the pin in the center of the Schraeder valve. BE CAREFUL - It should spit gas at you. If there's no fuel pressure you need to get into diagnosing why. If there is pressure there, I'm afraid I've run out of ideas that can be done via the internet...
The next step is to test for fuel pressure. The right way to do this is with a pressure gauge (see the second video in post #7). Another (less safe) way to get a rough test is to take the cap off the Schraeder valve (location shown in that video). The Schraeder valve looks like an oversized tire valve. Turn the key ON (no need to crank the engine) and press lightly on the pin in the center of the Schraeder valve. BE CAREFUL - It should spit gas at you. If there's no fuel pressure you need to get into diagnosing why. If there is pressure there, I'm afraid I've run out of ideas that can be done via the internet...
It seems like he has his truck on in the video. Will I just turn the key to have battery on and plug it in? Anyways I'll double check with video and try it out. If anything I'm bringing to mechanics on Friday. Been working on this for too long and making no progress. Pretty sure my starter is starting to give out too.
#22
Yes, the truck in the video is running. He's actually checking for changes in the fuel pressure as the engine RPMs is increased. The fuel pressure is actually generated by an electric pump (the pump will run with the key on and engine off) and the test I mentioned is just to see if there is ANY fuel pressure at all.
At this point, I believe a mechanic may turn out to be your best option.
At this point, I believe a mechanic may turn out to be your best option.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
smd747
1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis
6
08-24-2004 03:41 PM
pr
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
5
04-09-2001 12:43 PM
jackbo
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
7
01-22-2001 12:40 AM