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Ok guys pulling my hair out will try to include everything been working on my sons first truck last few months truck needed lots of work and have thrown lots of parts at it I’m sure some were needed anyways so here is the following air pump was removed when bought truck have checked and rechecked for vacuum leaks check fuel pressure replaced fpr map sensor o2 sensor ect sensor act sensor new injectors replaced exhaust manifolds removed the o2 harness near battery ohms out ok still running rich removed eec looked inside granted not real sure what to look for but nothing obvious only thing haven’t replaced is the tps also other issue can’t get the truck up to temp wants to stay under 160 on my scan tool and I believe that’s accurate by feeling hoses and using heat gun I’m out of ideas except running compression check or find some one with a breakout box
also replaced plugs cap rotor and verified tim
ing
Last edited by mailman2000; Oct 12, 2023 at 01:03 PM.
Ok guys pulling my hair out will try to include everything been working on my sons first truck last few months truck needed lots of work and have thrown lots of parts at it I’m sure some were needed anyways so here is the following air pump was removed when bought truck have checked and rechecked for vacuum leaks check fuel pressure replaced fpr map sensor o2 sensor ect sensor act sensor new injectors replaced exhaust manifolds removed the o2 harness near battery ohms out ok still running rich removed eec looked inside granted not real sure what to look for but nothing obvious only thing haven’t replaced is the tps also other issue can’t get the truck up to temp wants to stay under 160 on my scan tool and I believe that’s accurate by feeling hoses and using heat gun I’m out of ideas except running compression check or find some one with a breakout box
Personally I'd go ahead and replace TPS. They can be finicky with age. Is it running so rich it's blowing black smoke or just smells rich? Sounds like thermostat is stuck open. Another part that could used replaced regardless if it's working or not. Is it colder where you live or hotter? I have a 170 or 180 in mine because of the summer heat in Kansas. Takes a bit to warm up in the winter but heat can destroy an engine if not maintained properly.
So it won't stay below 160 degrees Fahrenheit? That seems pretty low. 200 seems a bit high at least more my liking but 180 to 190 seems to be a good temp to be at.
[QUOTE=OBSession05;21002890]Man I hate it when I misread something
So it won't stay below 160 degrees Fahrenheit? That seems pretty low. 200 seems a bit high at least more my liking but 180 to 190 seems to be a good temp to be at.[/. Sorry replaced thermostat also yes I can’t get it to reach over 160 never seen that before thought maybe air in system but have been working with for few days making sure air is out
Usually if air gets in the system I've seen overheating take place. That's really strange. Have you felt the hoses to see if they feel like they're under pressure from the get go or when it reaches a certain temp? Also has the cooling system appear to be upgraded in any way? Was the truck idling? Maybe take it for a drive and open it up for a bit and see what it does.
Usually if air gets in the system I've seen overheating take place. That's really strange. Have you felt the hoses to see if they feel like they're under pressure from the get go or when it reaches a certain temp? Also has the cooling system appear to be upgraded in any way? Was the truck idling? Maybe take it for a drive and open it up for a bit and see what it does.
yea truck was only at idle running so bad don’t want to get it on the road this truck is driving me crazy lol I wish I could find someone with a breakout box local to check this thing before throwing more parts at it
Lol I understand your struggle. These EEC trucks are just smart enough to tell you something is wrong and dumb enough to not tell you what it is. That and with all the damn sensors it only takes one (at least it feels like it) and the truck just goes "NOPE".
I have a Ford (Rotinda) 60 pin breakout box
What's local mailman2000?
That code 173 stuck rich is caused by something else that is not showing a code like the MAP sensor or ECT? (possibly the processor)
I would not want to throw parts at it either
The fuel trim indicates the processor is cutting fuel and trying to maintain 14.7 to 1
I see the front O2 sensor at .44 and .21 (both on the lean side) are they switching?
You may have a drizzling injector (leaking)
I built a injector test apparatus out of an old fuel rail that I pressurize with injector cleaner
I use a trunk switch to momentarily fire the injectors one by one, squirt by squirt
You will be able to see a bad one right away
Check the map sensor vacuum line, (plugged)
Test the hertz coming out of it (to see if it corresponds to your altitude)
Is your fuel pressure regulator leaking?
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